Jump to content

Modification Options


cdm

Recommended Posts

  • Member
  • Member For: 21y 7m 2d
  • Location: Melbourne

Guys, having tested a range of vehicles with different chips /computers, I have to say that the UNICHIP is the neatest & most reliable option as well as being the least detectable.

I would highly recommend these options in 280 & 330 kw form.

And for those worried about Warranty issues - as a wise man once said - IF YOU ARE THAT SCARED -DONT DO IT !

There a lot of things that need to be taken in to consideration with modifying a new car these days & YES I have been blind in the past - but can now see the LIGHT !!

There are no 2 ways about it - if you want to modify a BAXR6T you must take the LOGICAL & EDUCATED approach.

Having spent a lot of time looking at different products & talking to diffferent people in ALL areas of the industry, If you take the UNEDUCATED & CHEAP approach you will not achieve what you set out to do.

Take the time to scan the Forums, use the information avalaiable to you & If you are unsure - ASK THE QUESTION !! - Nothing worse that spending all your money on somewthing that wont work !

Hope I have HELPED in someway, shape or form.

Keep on smiling guys & enjoy your cars - they are part of our lives !!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 409
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 22y
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, WA
I would like to know if anybody has had the capa stg 1 kit fitted and dynoed what the fwklw and or rwklw really are ? CHEERS

How would you propose to check the FWKW without removing the engine from the car?? :thumbsup:

I have a stage 1 CAPA kit boosting to 9 psi, and on my automatic vehicle, the RWKW increased from 173 kW to 200 kW with the increased boost.

Now the 173 kW really has no comparative significance to other claimed kW values, but really only serves as a before / after scenario.

I have done a run against Mr Walker and 1axr (std. manual and auto) at Myaree dyno a few months ago, and on that Dyno I produced 314 RWHP which equates to 234 kW. 1axr produced 280 RWHP, equating to 208 kW, so go figure!!

The CAPA kit works really well, and importantly they preserve all the engine protective devices, so damage is probably less likely than with some other modification options around :bouncey:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Team Bute
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 21y 5m 9d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Adelaide
How would you propose to check the FWKW without removing the engine from the car??

Not easily achieved. But doing a basic calculation of ratio of actual measured rwkw vs claimed fwkw on stock T gives an indication of driveline loss, so if you use the same ratio with your new (increased) rwkw figure, you can estimate the fwkw.....

having said that, if you really do want to know fwkw whilst the motor is in the car, an expensive but interesting way they do it on high budget drag cars in the US is by having a torque transducer attached to the tailshaft. This enables torque to be measured directly whilst in the car, during actual race meets, and enables fine tuning of engine parameters to suit each track and weather conditions.

the product of torque and rpm can give power figures directly whilst in the vehicle.

:idea: Now if an enterprising engineering firm was to make a reasonable priced torque sensing kit for Ausie cars, we could get real time determination of the performance of our cars at all times from the comfort of our driver's seat. :idea:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Lifetime Members
  • Member For: 22y 2m 14d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: South Coast NSW

turbotom> the device you mention DOES NOT measure fwkw. The only device that directly measures fwkw is an engine dynomometer. You can do all the estimates you like by measuring power at other points in the driveline but it is all pointless really.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • My new toy
  • Lifetime Members
  • Member For: 21y 8m 2d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: stanthorpe wine capital of qld.
From memory aint the plugs longlife Platinum plugs and are very good anyways?

Yes they are long life plugs and good ones.

Ian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Lifetime Members
  • Member For: 22y 2m 14d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: South Coast NSW

I think the reference was probably to changing the heat range of the plugs rather than the type. It is always good to try different heat ranges when you do any mods to an engine - you can be surprised by the results of putting a plug of the next step colder in your motor if you are doing a lot of high speed running.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest sven
  • Guests

It is a concern with the warranty issue and the chip. I've heard so many varying bit of information about wether to go for it or not?

Prices varying from $1500 to $5000...? Stage 1, 2 and 3.

By the way is the stock 240 kw in the spec's messured from the wheel or the engine?

I'm expecting delivery of my XR6T next week after waiting some 4 months!!!! YEAH BABY!

Sven

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.



×
  • Create New...
'