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Fpv Look A Like Guage Pods


Adrian6T

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  • Member For: 19y 4m 13d
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  • Location: Melb
My gauge pod arrived today. Very happy with the packaging and the colour fitting instructions.

Highly recommend to all.

Just have decide which type of Cobalt Autometer gauges to get!

Apart from Egauges in the US,  is there anyone else who sells them for a reasonable price in AUS/NZ ?

I got my 20psi vac/boost cobolt for $129 from autobarn dandy

and a oil presure colbalt for $159..

If you get a oil presure. The correct T-Piece to use is a VDO 230.032. The standard thread in the oil sender is 1/4 NPT. (the autometer is 1/8 NPT).

DONT get the oil filter sandwidth plate they try to sell you for the oil sender. it sucks arse.. Do it properly with the T - Piece

Danny.

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  • 3 weeks later...
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  • Member For: 21y 4m 3d
  • Location: Melbourne
I got my 20psi vac/boost cobolt for $129 from autobarn dandy

and a oil presure colbalt for $159..

If you get a oil presure. The correct T-Piece to use is a VDO 230.032. The standard thread in the oil sender is 1/4 NPT. (the autometer is 1/8 NPT).

DONT get the oil filter sandwidth plate they try to sell you for the oil sender. it sucks arse.. Do it properly with the T - Piece

Danny.

Danny - What exactly about the Speco sandwich plate that is so :tease: ? Is it the fact that it is approx 1" thick? The installer at Autobarn Dandy says it is the only one that will do the job? What is he referring to as many guys are using the VDO T piece etc?

Guys - I am about to get the Cobalt Vac/Boost 20PSI and elec Oil Temp guages to mount in my FPV pod. Is it pointless getting the 30PSI electrical gauge for a future 300rwkw mod? Or just go their 20PSI mechanical guage - $300 is a big diff if not needed?

Will a T Piece work for Oil Temp or must I use the sandwich plate?

Any assistance from others who have done the same install will be appreciated.

Cheers

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  • Member For: 22y 2m 5d
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  • Location: Townsville, NQ
The SS-Induction ones suck arse because of the screw holes.. What were they thinking?? They also aint a pods like look.

I don't see the big problem with the screws? Sure, no screws would be a nicer option, but it's never detracted in my mind from how good the gauge pod looks. I love my SS ind pod. Looks great.

And they're not a 'pods like look' (pods look alike??) because they were released a long time before FPV started doing them.

These new pods look great. Worth the money? Yes. FPV pods worth the money? Hell no.

I'll stick with my SS pod though. Looks great

Oh, and my SS pod won't become a missile in the cab if I ever, god forbid, have a big off. ;)

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  • Member For: 18y 11m 25d
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I will be bringing out 3 pod holder for those that want the extra guage. Injection moulded, same quality as the FPV guage holder only with 3 pods. Will also include front front bezels. I will also becoming a site sponsor here in a few weeks.

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  • Member For: 19y 4m 13d
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Danny - What exactly about the Speco sandwich plate that is so  :spoton: ? Is it the fact that it is approx 1" thick? The installer at Autobarn Dandy says it is the only one that will do the job? What is he referring to as many guys are using the VDO T piece etc?

Guys - I am about to get the Cobalt Vac/Boost 20PSI and elec Oil Temp guages to mount in my FPV pod. Is it pointless getting the 30PSI electrical gauge for a future 300rwkw mod? Or just go their 20PSI mechanical guage - $300 is a big diff if not needed?

Will a T Piece work for Oil Temp or must I use the sandwich plate?

The Sandwidth plate in my opinion is a bad idea. The guys selling the autometer guages say that's what you need.. But when I went to parts next door with the quoted part number, we looked for ages (both me and the spares guy were looking for a T piece).. we went back to guys selling the guages sayign we cant find it. He came and grabbed it for us. We both looked at him with a look like get out of here.. The only reason I would use a sandwitch plate is if I had a Oil Cooler.

If you get the T-Piece, it bolts straight onto the existing oil presure point, and extends that out 1.5 inches or so, and the original oil presure sensor gets put in, and on the side, the autometer's 1/8th thread goes in the side.

As for the Oil Temp sensor. I am unsure what thread that uses. If it is 1/8th NPT, then yeah, this T-Piece I quoted before will work (VDO 230.032).

But in my opinion, Stay away from the sandwitch plate :)

Personally I would choose oil presure over oil temp. The turbo's ECU has built in Oil temp safety margins which dropps boost if oil temp goes beyond a certain point

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  • Member For: 21y 4m 3d
  • Location: Melbourne

Thanks for the feedback Danny,

Will keep it mind.

Isn't oil pressure also regulated by the ECU incase of a critical reading and not requiring any action from the driver to shut the engine off?

Reason I have for choosing the oil temp was to also get a reading from the Auto's fluid temps as well as engine oil temp via a flip switch.

Cheers.

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  • Member For: 19y 4m 13d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melb
Thanks for the feedback Danny,

Will keep it mind.

Isn't oil pressure also regulated by the ECU incase of a critical reading and not requiring any action from the driver to shut the engine off?

Reason I have for choosing the oil temp was to also get a reading from the Auto's fluid temps as well as engine oil temp via a flip switch.

Cheers.

The engine is fitted with a oil presure switch.. When it drops below a certain presure, it cuts out.. As to what this does? Unsure.. Maybe turns engine off?

Is oil temp electronic or mechanical?

Switching between the two would be cool

Danny.

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  • Member For: 20y 2m 12d
  • Location: Sutherland Shire, Sydney

I'm pretty sure it just turns the light on on the dash when it senses a dro in oil pressure. Cause I started my car without the wire hooked up to it when doing my last set, and that's all that happened...

Chris :spoton:

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