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  • Formerly XR6NA
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Does this cooler require any cutting?? Or can it just be a straight bolt in? You also say it uses the stock plumbing is that right? I wasn't going to do a cooler at first but being so cheap I might as well.

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Does this cooler require any cutting?? Or can it just be a straight bolt in? You also say it uses the stock plumbing is that right? I wasn't going to do a cooler at first but being so cheap I might as well.

No cutting a bolt in fit Just drill one hole that's all. I maybe selling mine PM me if interested it has travelled only 3000Ks on my previous car before sale, as new.

Considering installing a COBRA kit in the new Phoon, so it will not be needed.

Im in BRISBANE too

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  • Member For: 18y 10m 20d
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alot of people have over 300rwklw its not that hard.

the reason I took MY monza cooler off is because I found the setup was not as good as the one I have now.

if you think the monza cooler is "extremely efficient at its job" then that is fine.

I have found better results for my car with a diffrent setup.

I did not say monza could not handle 300rwklw easy I said I personaly would not do it.

ok... so why would you not personally do it? Is there a specific reason such as it doesnt do its job effeciently?

what cooler do you run now??

I ran 372rwklw with this cooler.

but I did that on a cold day so I gave it to the car.

I would not run over 300rwklw with this cooler on the street as I sit in traffic alot and I found this cooler setup to not be as efficient as a custom setup I have now.

I am not bagging this cooler it is a really good cooler for the price. all I was saying is if I was building a car and I wanted around 300rwklw this cooelr would be great.

anything over that and I would upgrade it to the next level.

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alot of people have over 300rwklw its not that hard.

the reason I took MY monza cooler off is because I found the setup was not as good as the one I have now.

if you think the monza cooler is "extremely efficient at its job" then that is fine.

I have found better results for my car with a diffrent setup.

I did not say monza could not handle 300rwklw easy I said I personaly would not do it.

ok... so why would you not personally do it? Is there a specific reason such as it doesnt do its job effeciently?

what cooler do you run now??

I ran 372rwklw with this cooler.

but I did that on a cold day so I gave it to the car.

I would not run over 300rwklw with this cooler on the street as I sit in traffic alot and I found this cooler setup to not be as efficient as a custom setup I have now.

I am not bagging this cooler it is a really good cooler for the price. all I was saying is if I was building a car and I wanted around 300rwklw this cooelr would be great.

anything over that and I would upgrade it to the next level.

The M spec cooler does a great job and well exceeds the limits of the "STOCK PIPE WORK" simple thing is, if your chasing big power and consistency ditch all the stock pipe work.  Aint rocket science.

there is your answer wog cooler with std plumbing is good to 320 where plumbing becomes a restriction add plumbing and you get more

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Does this cooler require any cutting?? Or can it just be a straight bolt in? You also say it uses the stock plumbing is that right? I wasn't going to do a cooler at first but being so cheap I might as well.

Kemmit, on fitting to a BA mk1 its a straight bolt up, no cutting, requires the horns to be moved, perhaps a slight moving of the aircon lines, im just fussy about clearance issues but you dont have to, might also require a slight massaging of the brackets to get it all to line up spot on. The install is the same on Mk2 onwards with the exception that you shall have to drill 2 holes on the passenger side of the car in the front support bar, nothing major really. :roflmbo:

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  • Member For: 18y 11m 19d
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hi, im a fair n00b when it comes to installing this especially when it comes to undoing nuts and bolts etc. I am purchasing a second hand wogcooler in the coming week and it isn't coming with the instructions that originally come with the cooler. now im wondering if anyone can head me in the right direction of getting instructions for the install or be kind enough to scan the instructions and post them on here for me. if worse comes to worse I can get as much info from Chris (RAP1D) he has been great to me and answered heaps of my questions. Thanks in advanced guys. Franc :blush:

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Seriously easy to do, even for a mechanically inept person like myself. The hardest bit is getting the stupid plastic screws Ford uses undone from the front guards, bumper and grill.

They are a *beep*.

Should take about 90 minutes.

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hi, im a fair n00b when it comes to installing this especially when it comes to undoing nuts and bolts etc. I am purchasing a second hand wogcooler in the coming week and it isn't coming with the instructions that originally come with the cooler. now im wondering if anyone can head me in the right direction of getting instructions for the install or be kind enough to scan the instructions and post them on here for me. if worse comes to worse I can get as much info from Chris (RAP1D) he has been great to me and answered heaps of my questions. Thanks in advanced guys. Franc :spit:

destruction manual for intercooler fitment:

1 remove grill and cover tray 6 clips (philips and some times a knife)

2 remove screw and 2 clips from each bar end leaving the inner guards in place(philips and some times a knife)

3 remove 2 x 7mm hex head screws each end of the bumper bar/stone tray assembly through to inner guards

4 remove 2 x 10mm hex bolts to rad support holding b/bar on

5 with 2 people gently pop out b/bar ends by pulling them away from the guard

6 slide the b/bar aprox 20-30cm forward and unclip the spotlights

7 remove plastic honeycomb b/bar supports 6 x 10mm hex bolts

8 loosen and remove cooler hoses at the cooler end only loosening the top hose under the headlight

9 remove 12mm hex 2 bolts and 2 nuts from passenger side bracket then the 2 bolts from driverside this will allow cooler to come out

NOTE: SOME MKI'S HAVE 2 OIL COOLERS LOWER COOLER MUST BE RELOCATED

to relocate cooler simply undo the 2 x 10 mm hex nuts lower then move out of the way no need to loosen hose clamps

then remove the brackets with an 8mm hex this will allow you to lower the cooler

10 to prepare the wog cooler you get the 2 L shaped brakets and bolt them loosly to the top 2 bolt hole's with both tags pointing to the passenger side

11 the twisted brackets are different with 1 having an extra bend this bend is to go on the driver side lower toward the body bolt these on loosly too

12 raise the cooler into place then align the two top brackets with the original holes mki

NOTE: MKII REQUIRE DRILLING OF 2 NEW 8MM HOLES APROXIMATELY 60-70MM TOWARD THE PASSENGER SIDE

ONCE THE COOLER IS LOOSLY BOLTED TO DRIVERSIDE THE LOCATIONS WILL BE APARENT BY BRACKET LOCATION

13 now you are ready to fit and align hoses and reverse instructions to fit b/bar

FINAL NOTE: IT MAY BE EASIER TO BEND THE HORN BRACKET FORWARD FOR CLEARANCE WHILE WORKING THEN BENDING THEM BACK ALSO SOME EARLY MKI'S HAD SHORTER HORN BRACKETS AND REQUIRE HORNS TO BE TURNED ON THE BRAKETS OR RELOCATION TO PASSENGER H/LIGHT MOUNTING BOLT :blush:

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