Oils

[LUMO]

  Trough Lolly said:

I got my mits on some "ELF" Excellium GP Fully synthetic 5-40w for $41 a bottle!! that's my score of the week

got rid of that horrid rattle it had when u turn the engine off.

I had ELF in my xr6t and it was sh*t I didnt like it and had other mates that tried it and they had lifter noise and yea I change it after 2000kms of using it because it wasnt good

I use mobil1 and change oil and oil filter every 5000kms its a great oil.

[tquarrell]

I put some Penrite HPR 15 (15w60) in mine last week. Penrite recommend it for where 15w40 is recommended by the manufacturer for high temperature/stress situations, so I figure it should be perfect for mine (higher boost/heat than stock). I got it for $32 per bottle. It's semi synthetic so not the best oil, but is a good cost/performance combo imo

[01txr]

I am using 5w-40w (40w?) full syn Havoline and can say I am am very happy with how much quiter and smoother my XR6T runs than what it did with the unknown mineral oil that was in it when I purchased.

Have you seen the adds for Havoline that state SBR use off the shelf Havoline oil's.

If its good enought for them I will use it to.

Other V8 supercar teams have never made this claim of the oils they use.

In a old worn out cortina 6 I had years ago I experimented with a few different oils as was using 4 liters a week.

Magnatech is not as good as they tried saying it was as it deminished very quickly and oil pressure would drop badly once at temp, this was no better than the thin no name super market $5 oil.

Valoline would hold pressure alot better but still dropped psi with a bit more mileage out of it over the magnatech.

Penrite 50 would last 2 weeks and hold very good oil pressure, down side being it was twice the price of others, upside less pollution.

After the cortina I continued using Penrite 50 in my 351 which lasted 4 years of abuse before my brother spun a bearing

(this may have happened from him racing a lambo a few weeks before as he told me this lambo pulled a few car lengths on him and he had looked at speedo as it was sitting on 200kph and realised he had better select top, so probably stretched a rod bolt from over reving it which may have been the cause).

I never checked the damage as it was his car at time so can't say 100% what caused the spun bearing, however I did see the bearings out of it to which they all looked in very good condition and the one which had spun had just flattened the locating tabs.

This was able to pull 7 000 rpm top gear with 3.0:1 gears, would turn the tyre's at 170kph changing into top gear ( toploader ).

Beleive me it copped a hard 4 years.

I would have gone Penrite sin for my T if it was not so expensive.

The Havoline is under $50 compared to Penrite sin $70.

Iam in QLD and have had no problems running 5w oil.

I would recommend to run 5w in these Hi tech multi valve, tight clearenced engines.

If you have checked the very fine oil filter mesh screen for turbo feed and think about a thick oil trying to flow through it and then you would understand what Iam saying, and also a thick oil takes longer to circulate through engine which causes shortened life to lifters and other wear.

EG a siezed bolt if you try to undo without applying a thin wd40 lube it will get hot and most times snap.

motor oil is to thick to flow into it so it wont work either.

So imagine a thick weight oil trying to lubricate a low clearence engine.

Other disadvantage of heavy oil is you lose power due to more friction same again get a roller bearing and pack it with grease and spin it, then clean it with kero and apply oil, it spins a lot easier and is not going to wear anymore than what it would with grease in it.

Sorry for this very long thread but hope it is of use.

[davidald]

I use ULX 110 10W50. Its an American custom blend oil for hypo engines. Gets rid of the turbo whine when the engine is cold.

[Buf-Phoon]

  Spruce said:

They make a 15W-40 full synth, exactly what the handbook says to use (the rating that is, not the type - not using any bloody mineral here!).

Unless I got Royal, I think I'll stick with Castrol Edge 0W-40 though.

I use Royal Purple full Synthetic 10W-40

[Terebro]

I've been using Penrite SYN 5 for a while now. The engine certainly runs smoother, but a nasty 'tappet' sound has developed when I start it cold every morning that drives me crazy.

When it goes in for service soon I'll see if their standard sh*t oil they put in removes it. If it doesn't it's staying there.

[ford268]

I used nulon in my old AU ute, never had a problem, you can get fully syn for about $50 for 5 ltrs.. I havnt had my new one serviced yet

[SavageF6]

For engine oil, I use Nulon full Synth 10W-40.

http://www.nulon.com.au/products.php?productId=syn10w40

Last purchase was $39 for each of the 5L containers (normally $49). Was previously using Castrol Edge 0W-40, but wont be going back. Nulon is Aussie, the full synth delivers less friction than even Castrol Edge for example, and costs less.

[jasper361]

Sorry to hijack, but how many K's do you need to run the mineral oil's in a new car?

[tab]

3 is a pretty good number - either get the ford monkeys to do it at the happy-feel good service or do it yourself afterwards

Edited 18/04/07 07:18 AM by tab