Turbo Actuator Theory

[bloosted]

  F6 UTE said:

  fill said:

This is a great post!   

I just have one question... 

Are there not adjustable actuators available, and what is the adjustability for?

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I have an 'adjustable' 8psi actuator..

It's 'adjustable' so you can place the correct amount of 'pre-load' on the flapper/wastegate to suit your own circumstances. Too little, it will 'flap' open under too low an amount of boost, too much it'll overboost your minimum setting.

Mine cost ~$90 for actuator and adjustable arm.

TurboTech, Great Eastern Hwy..

are these a straight fit? or do they need other machining/mods to fit?

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[Romulus]

  F6 UTE said:

^^ someone's been wifi whoreing..................

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Nah, friggen dialup

[F6 UTE]

  bloosted said:

are these a straight fit? or do they need other machining/mods to fit?

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remove the turbo job... easy to do, but a pain in the @ss..

Allow 4hrs..

Good chance to apply some copper grease or other anti-sieze to your manifold and turbo bolts to stop them rattling loose again..

2 birds so to speak...

[bloosted]

  F6 UTE said:

  bloosted said:

are these a straight fit? or do they need other machining/mods to fit?

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remove the turbo job... easy to do, but a pain in the @ss..

Allow 4hrs..

Good chance to apply some copper grease or other anti-sieze to your manifold and turbo bolts to stop them rattling loose again..

2 birds so to speak...

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thanks mate

[Eugene]

  bloosted said:

  F6 UTE said:

  bloosted said:

are these a straight fit? or do they need other machining/mods to fit?

←

←

remove the turbo job... easy to do, but a pain in the @ss..

Allow 4hrs..

Good chance to apply some copper grease or other anti-sieze to your manifold and turbo bolts to stop them rattling loose again..

2 birds so to speak...

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thanks mate

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I di ours in Position, put her up on ramps, removed the heat sheilds all around to see what was going on and dove in, the little spring clip that holds the actuator arm on the flap arm is a pain and easy to lose if your not carefull, but otherwise it was straight forward.

Good idea of removing the turbo though, fit new studs and nuts along with anti seize, I am sick of loose bolts.

[SAMSXR6T]

Sorry to cut in but I am also now in need to replace the actuator... dyno shows boost dies marginally on the graph. Would need boost level to be maintained to a constant path. Was told by tuner that xr6t actuator is 4 to 6 psi like stated above..

[Paranormal]

  Garfield said:

Hi Guy's,

I have found this thread very interesting. At present with factory tune, my T runs faultlessly @ 6psi. With CAPA's generic 8psi tune it actually peaks @ 11psi, and with the 10psi tune @ 15psi. The boost is very eractic with the needle all over the place.

Could this actuator/spring be my problem?

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Garfield, I'm also running capa genric tune with incar 15psi fairmont boost gauge connected to the brake booster line (as pre intructions)and I see exactly the same thing in car with boost spiking to 11 on 8psi map and 15psi on the 10psi. But and a big BUT is having recently put her on the dyno at FIST dyno day, the boost curve went up to spot on 10 psi and level out there thru the entire rpm range.

So are you looking at your boost gauge or dyno chart?

Also how can we get better in car readings? is there a better line to connect to for more stable accurate readings guys?

[Paradoxx]

The BOV actuator hose

[gogo]

  SAMSXR6T said:

Sorry to cut in but I am also now in need to replace the actuator... dyno shows boost dies marginally on the graph. Would need boost level to be maintained to a constant path. Was told by tuner that xr6t actuator is 4 to 6 psi like stated above..

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This might or might not be an actuator problem.

What boost level are you running, and what mods?

Standard IC, induction plumbing, cat, (as well as some aftermarket stuff) make it hard to generate boost levels at high rpm due to the restrictions these create in flow - high rpm = higher flow for more power at similar effective boost levels.

Most edited/stage 1 cars will make more boost through the midrange than at the top end (as will most more highly modified cars as well!)- this is normal, and not necessarily related to the actuator.

Best way to tell is get it back on the dyno where it was tuned, and overlay the current boost curve with one from when the car was tuned. I should be reasonably and immeadiately obvious if the actuator has a problem holding boost.

Cheers.

Ben.

[Romulus]

  SAMSXR6T said:

Sorry to cut in but I am also now in need to replace the actuator... dyno shows boost dies marginally on the graph. Would need boost level to be maintained to a constant path. Was told by tuner that xr6t actuator is 4 to 6 psi like stated above..

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Maybe you should put a boost pressure gauge on the compressor housing of the turbo and see how much boost you are getting there........you'll find between 4-8 psi higher reading that what you are getting in the inlet manifold.

Maybe the problem isn't the actuator assembly but the inlet causing a boost restriction.