Quick Times..

[gogo]

Thought I would add my 2c worth here as well.

So far best 60ft on a track was 2.3s on V103 yokos at 39psi

On G-Tech best 2.15s same tyre, 36psi, 8" roll out - clutch only just hanging in there so not been practicing that much.

As to when to change gears - I would add the following thoughts (this is not based on times, and is just that, some thoughts... )

Rate of acceleration is dependant on tractive effort at the wheels - this is a factor of (engine) torque and gearing (and traction).

In theory, the point to change will be dependant on your torque curve and the difference in gear ratio to the next gear. With a T56 where the ratios are closer, dependant on how much additional torque is being produced in the mid range relative to the top end, you will gain more (or loose less) than with a T5 that has bigger changes in ratio. If you have a flat torque curve (ie a steep power curve at the top end) to high rpm, then you should hang onto each gear longer, if you have a lot more torque in the mid range (ie a flat power curve) then the changing early will be more likely to have a positive impact.

The earlier you change, the lower the speed of the car during the change = less distance travelled during a change - presuming the amount of time to execute the change remains the same = slightly longer ET for an earlier change (all other thing aside). Of course, if the time it takes to execute the change drops (as F6_ute is suggesting) then this changes the outcome, and has the added impact of dropping less boost.

Typically at higher rpm the car is consuming more air and fuel at full load than at a lower rpm (dependant on limitations with injectors etc), changing earlier should reduce slightly the time it take to spool back up to meet a slightly lower duty requirement. The same might be true of inlet temps, although I really have no idea how quickely these will rise under load - ie at lower air flow (ie lower revs) it is easier for the intercooler to maintain consistant inlet temp to the engine dependant on the size of the IC and the power being produced.

At higher speeds, power becomes more important to over come rolling losses and wind resistance, so this would skew the the 'optimum' shift pont slightly higher for progressive gears...

I will have a play with shift times at some point at mid through high rpm using the g-Tech and post what I find - just don't hold your breath as I need this clutch for another month or more...

Cheers,

Ben.

[gogo]

Look at where peak 'Torque' is made. This is where your car has the most 'grunt'

Peak power is a product of rpm, correct me if I'm wrong??

←

power is proportional to torque times rpm - so you are correct!

cheers,

Ben.

[F6 UTE]

  The same might be true of inlet temps, although I really have no idea how quickely these will rise under load - ie at lower air flow (ie lower revs) it is easier for the intercooler to maintain consistant inlet temp to the engine dependant on the size of the IC and the power being produced.

←

Check these charge temps.

Ambient was 24 degrees. ONE power run from idle.

[F6 UTE]

What's a respectable 60' time with a manual either T5 or T56?

←

The best I have done with a T56 is 1.7 60ft on Drag Radials.

←

Nice, what was the resulting run??

[gogo]

Check these charge temps.

Ambient was 24 degrees. ONE power run from idle.

Wow!

very interesting! Thanks for that

Ben.

[Lumpen]

Oh, for 11's, my tip.. get EMS or similar fitted. With a strong A/M clutch and MT's, you'll need antilag.. ( imo )

←

How's that EMS going mate

Lumpy

[TUFED6]

Best time for my ute is 13.90 @ 101mph. 2.1sec 60 foot. Standard boost/exhaust/no edit. On 18in Nankang NS2's dropped to 22ish psi. Tyres have more than enough grip to get a nice stink out of the clutch.

It has a 13.8 in it but I quit while the clutch and trans are still working...

- John

[Trough Lolly]

my best 60ft is 2.1 for a 8.6 sec 1/8th mile @ 86mph.

I wanna try a 1/4!!!!

[TUFXRT6]

F6UTE

Thanks for the advice off the launch, I was constantly launching at 2.5-3 on the hope of minamising the wheel spin on street rubber.

[F6 UTE]

Geez. I suppose I should update this as a bit has changed from then...

Well, the tune I was running back then held power out untill 4000rpm. Hence, it was alot like most of the tunes alot of you are getting. Good for the street, nice and progressive.. Not quick though.

For the wog tune, things got a bit different, and a whole lot quicker. Tune remained ~310rwkw, and still does.

Firstly, power was ramped in low. Purely to get the weight moving quicker.

My efforts on street tyres dropped to consistant 12.3's @ 117mph. About as quick ( ET ) as alot of guys running upwards of 350rwkw I suppose.

Launch technique changed a little bit. I still keep the revs happy on the line, and work the clutch to keep a good balance between going forward and going up in smoke.

Best 60' on street tyres was a 2.0 from memory.

Then I got tyres.

Big monster burnout in 3rd gear from the water ( Just dial up the revs in 3rd and drop it ) , creep it forward onto the dry stuff. Get lots of smoke happening. Car should be 90 deg to the track, gripping and tearing the bitumen up.. great fun

Load up 4300rpm, and just step off the clutch. ( I hope you have a good clutch ) I use the stock F6 unit.

With that, just keep the foot buried to the floor and flat change as quick as you can thru every gear. Not real high tech, but it worked..

The car still ran the 1/4 without shifting from the optimum rev range for my car. 4000-5000rpm. This is the point where both my peak torque, and peak power are made.

It only went out to higher revs in 4th, getting to the line.

Your car, and tune will differ. So get it on the dyno and have a look at your graph. It's a tool, not just a showpiece..