What Can I Beat?

[TBO240]

spend $1500 and there wont be too much you have to worry about on the street.

$1500 will get you the edit ($950) and custom tune $300-500.

what were you worried about again, SS, S200, wrx

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Spend a bit more and you'll be beating some of the quicker bikes too. You should see the looks on their faces. Priceless!!!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

clearly these guy's can't ride

Chooka

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Well I have had numerous runs with my mates Injected R1 with yoshi(no power commander)

Rolling run from 100kmh(ON PRIVATE ROAD OF COURSE) He would clutch his bike and I could hold him till 200kmh,which is when I hit overdrive and he then passes me.

So to answer Sutty post. Yes you can hold your own with 1000cc inline Jap bikes.

My 2 cents

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

mwhahahhah funny sh*t! Seriosly mate I would be finishing a cup of tea by the time you changed into second. And I ride a stock CBR600 and have run 10.99 at the Creek. Tracks dont measure 0-100 but roadtest show 0-100 in 2.7 seconds. A 1000 would kill you sorry.

As for the T I would back it against most cars under $80K.

Cheers.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Were did I say I could beat one of the line

I was just measuring accelaration on the roll you goose.As for a 600 CBR. Bring it on champ.

My WR 450F on Motards will belt your little 600 around the twistys

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

went to calder friday night and to my suprise there was 4bikes running and only 1 ran quicker then 12.6 so it is possible to beat them.

[FPV TRANNY]

the reason they all get drilled on the street by the T's is that if the rex driver doesnt know if the other is draggin, they take off normally then once on the throttle, they get dusted every time.. in order to launch the rice boxes, you need to drop the clutch at 6,000rpm whereas the T has way more at low revs. 

that's true, the only way to get off quickly is with a clutch dump. this would account for most of your "wins"

Iv drilled many a modified WRX's in not only the old SS, but also the Phoon which are dead STOCK. No stupid noisy bov's or ridiculously loud exhausts that all sound the same as one another! 

"modded" - can mean anything, for example the wrx's out there with just a BOV or diff back exhaust - does nothing for performance (in fact usually makes it wose).

basic mods (a CAI, exhaust and ECU) will give a wrx an extra 40-50kw(ATW), more than enough to demolish your stock phoon (even if they dont launch it initially)

True, but mine will always be stock and under warrenty, and if later on I did decide to do an edit, exhaust etc. then it would still demolish a rex for a dollar to dollar spent basis in a straight line, despite it even weighing in at 1805kg. Mate, im not gonna argue wid you, I cant be bothered. Okay hows this, back to thread topic.. In an auto T, you will win in a straight line drag with a rex (stock one), if they dont dump the clutch at 6 thou. (And if it was in the wet )

If a rex is what u like then great! Im happy for you, I really am, they drive okay for what they are (Mate has a resonably new 04-05? sti, cat back exhaust only), the T's are actually aimed at people like yourself who eventually decide to maybe have a family one day and need the extra room, and yet still want a car that's fairly quick. Rexies just dont "float my boat" that's all. Literally.

agree with all that, although I would remind you of the price difference between the phoon and the wrx.

BTW, just to clarify, im not bashing the T, its a great car (that's why im on my second) and really a different package/value proposition to a wrx (ie they arent in the same class). but, im not going to sit back and say nothing when I read morons braging about their cars being all conquering when they simply arent.

love it for what it is, nothing more :flowers:

just read the latest motor mag the mrt p-25 kitted wrx(kit cost $25695)ran et 12.66 so not shore what class you are talking about ,aps phase 11 kit cost a fraction of that and I still can beats it.

Check the MPH in a rex that runs low 12,s and you will mostly find it comparable to T,s running mid to lowish 13,s.

MEANING that if a low twelve second T was to encounter one on the roll.WELL you no who would clean up

[TBO240]

mrt p-25 wrx 12.66 @174.3 km =108.26mph, its still going to get beat.

[FPV TRANNY]

mrt p-25 wrx 12.66 @174.3 km =108.26mph, its still going to get beat.

that's right.There all just off the mark stuff.

[FPV TRANNY]

Imagine a T with 4WD that could dump the clutch at 6000rpm with 300+rwkw

OUTERTHERE

[Deaks]

Just to throw some facts up there for yo all to stew over, my 96 Legacy wagon, which had a few mods, could pull 1.8sec 60 fts all day long, yes it was auto, 2800 stall, but it was fairly heavy for a Subaru (1450kgs). Now all you guys out there saying you can thump WRX's at the lights, have you actually come across a fast Subaru? EVo? Im not sure exactly what 60fts Geea's car is running, but the guys out there with 300rwkws, what 60fts are you getting? Most ive seen are around are in the 2.1-2.3 sec mark, now put that car on the street with variable grip, where the Subaru/AWD cars arent affected, and where does that leave you? Unless the drag goes to 160kph+ id put my money on the AWD rocket (no not a stock one, apples with apples remember).

Now before you all say im an XR6T basher, im not, I love my XR6T, but seriously guys, I had my Legacy for 3 years, and really only ever had trouble on the street vs other AWD machines. And yes I ran as many cars as I could, VL Turbos, XR6T's, SS's, Porsches (RWD as the AWD ones very rarely wanna play), but they couldnt get me off the line and then they are playing catch up, if they did that is. Not all could (the Legacy had 186kws atw through the auto), yup they had more grunt, but couldnt use it as effectively off the line as I could.

The more you drag, the more chance you have of losing, and I did lose, but it was an SS running semi slicks that hooked up bloody well, and he only beat me by three car lengths, his car ran mid 11's, mine flat 13's.

All im saying is I know my XR6T is fast, but off the line it isnt a patch on the AWD grip on the street. And im not calling anyone a lier, just I think you may wanna find a Rex with some grunt and then have a play.

Flame suit on.......

[FPV TRANNY]

Just to throw some facts up there for yo all to stew over, my 96 Legacy wagon, which had a few mods, could pull 1.8sec 60 fts all day long, yes it was auto, 2800 stall, but it was fairly heavy for a Subaru (1450kgs). Now all you guys out there saying you can thump WRX's at the lights, have you actually come across a fast Subaru? EVo? Im not sure exactly what 60fts Geea's car is running, but the guys out there with 300rwkws, what 60fts are you getting? Most ive seen are around are in the 2.1-2.3 sec mark

Ive ran 1.79 60 footer on M/Ts

And yes ive race fast rexs too

[Flukey]

the reason they all get drilled on the street by the T's is that if the rex driver doesnt know if the other is draggin, they take off normally then once on the throttle, they get dusted every time.. in order to launch the rice boxes, you need to drop the clutch at 6,000rpm whereas the T has way more at low revs. 

that's true, the only way to get off quickly is with a clutch dump. this would account for most of your "wins"

Iv drilled many a modified WRX's in not only the old SS, but also the Phoon which are dead STOCK. No stupid noisy bov's or ridiculously loud exhausts that all sound the same as one another! 

"modded" - can mean anything, for example the wrx's out there with just a BOV or diff back exhaust - does nothing for performance (in fact usually makes it wose).

basic mods (a CAI, exhaust and ECU) will give a wrx an extra 40-50kw(ATW), more than enough to demolish your stock phoon (even if they dont launch it initially)

True, but mine will always be stock and under warrenty, and if later on I did decide to do an edit, exhaust etc. then it would still demolish a rex for a dollar to dollar spent basis in a straight line, despite it even weighing in at 1805kg. Mate, im not gonna argue wid you, I cant be bothered. Okay hows this, back to thread topic.. In an auto T, you will win in a straight line drag with a rex (stock one), if they dont dump the clutch at 6 thou. (And if it was in the wet )

If a rex is what u like then great! Im happy for you, I really am, they drive okay for what they are (Mate has a resonably new 04-05? sti, cat back exhaust only), the T's are actually aimed at people like yourself who eventually decide to maybe have a family one day and need the extra room, and yet still want a car that's fairly quick. Rexies just dont "float my boat" that's all. Literally.

agree with all that, although I would remind you of the price difference between the phoon and the wrx.

BTW, just to clarify, im not bashing the T, its a great car (that's why im on my second) and really a different package/value proposition to a wrx (ie they arent in the same class). but, im not going to sit back and say nothing when I read morons braging about their cars being all conquering when they simply arent.

love it for what it is, nothing more :flowers:

just read the latest motor mag the mrt p-25 kitted wrx(kit cost $25695)ran et 12.66 so not shore what class you are talking about ,aps phase 11 kit cost a fraction of that and I still can beats it.

Are you for real. $25K to runa 12.6

It cost me about $3k to get that time

[Deaks]

Do you drive around every day on m/t's? Seriously? I know with drag slicks or similar any car has grip, but on street driven tyres?

It says in your sig you've run a 12.3 at 116mph, was that with a 1.79 60ft? I was running 13.0 with 104mph with 1.8sec 60ft, the times dont work out in my head, you've got 12mph more over the line but only 7 10ths quicker over the qtr with a faster 60ft?

[Flukey]

but the guys out there with 300rwkws, what 60fts are you getting? Most ive seen are around are in the 2.1-2.3 sec mark

1.6, 1.7 maybe.