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  • Member
  • Member For: 20y 7m 8d
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  XXXR6T said:
Anyone spot the anomoly??  :msm:  :msm:

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

YEP, same as everyone else, it is mostly the bolt with heat shields and mounts etc, as the one in the pic, that come loose.

the other two on top were tight wern't they, only ever the bottom two with the bracket under them that come loose.

Use the anti sieze, (copper), torque up to 27 ft pound :spoton: , and put on a new nut,

it is never the nutt o move either, it is always the stud. lock plates would fix it.

  • Just because it is, doesn't mean it should be.....
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  XXXR6T said:
Thanks for the info... ford can deal with it I CBF pulling the turbo off

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

don't blame ya ..

at least you know what it is now :msm:

shazzy

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probably going to regret saying this but......my auto ute has never had this issue in 45000 odd k's of me owing it and around 30000k's of being edited.(it dos get driven hard. had the exhaust manifold glowing red after a hard run more than once)

is it just me or does it seem to be way more common on manual t's than autos?

could it be the on/ff nature of the manual car when boosting compared to the relativly constant boost load in the auto?

you guys reckon this sounds right or am i just talking sh*t???

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It's quite possible, the boost is a lot more constant in an auto, whereas the pressure changes in a manual is very fluctual. It may also just be a simple case of poor build quality

What's the bracket holding at the bottom of the turbo? (where the stud is missing)

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  Snailracing said:
I have great success with Norloc washers. Haven't used them in this application yet, but have done the same thing with skylines, evo's, wrx etc etc and they have cured all unwinding

Am guessing Snail was talking about these - anyone used them?

http://www.nord-lock.com/default.asp?url=2.16.37

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