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Got Edited. Discovered i need...


built2redline

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So removing the rear muffler caused the mixture to lean out, cook your plugs and overboost???

Methinks someone is tugging on your leg mate - or something else.

Anyhow, I'm sure your problem is nothing that some money can't fix.

Good luck with it.

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  • Member For: 19y 8m 16d
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Thank god the Edit didnt give you a flat tyre or excessive wind noise around the A-pillar as well. Could have really been nasty then!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

WTF?!?! Dude im not blaming my problems on the Edit.

just saying all in all it was a bad day that's all!

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  • Member For: 20y 4m 23d
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I cant see how his title is blaming the EDIT.To me it looks that with the extra power he has achieved thru the EDIT he needs a new clutch and the boost controller is a car issue not EDIT.Can anyone start a topic these days without people firing up and starting a :stirthepot: fight..

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Mate the title said "Got Edited. Not good results."

Where does it point to the real problems in that title.

You are correct that from reading the thread that edit didn't cause the problems, but the title gave a different impression, which is what Martin was pointing out.

In any case there's no sh*t fight and the title has now been changed so on with the thread...

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ok ok lets get this thread back on track. :stirthepot:

got on the phone today and got a few prices for a clutch

3 quotes in total,

1.ceramic plate clutch and heavy duty pressure plate, fly wheel machining and gearbox service ~$1200.

2.heavy duty clutch kit $1650 from C&V

3.brass button heavy spring clutch with 7.5kg lightened flywheel $2200

all prices are fitted, which would be the best value?

I cant remember what kind of clutch C&V was offering.

everyone of these clutches is supposed to hold up to 700hp

I want something that isnt going to be a nightmare on the road as this car is my daily driver, I can stand a clutch that is a bit heavier bu I dont want something that's going to be really harsh on the Gear Box.( I know that largely depends on my left foot, but im talking about smooth takeoffs and the like)

I also am getting the bosch injectors (dont worry I wont ask any dumd Q's about these) :spoton:

and might get a Eboost2 to replace the standard factory boost controller

just wanted oppinions as to whether I am moving in the right directions with these mods.

Edited by built2redline
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  • Member For: 20y 4m 6d
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ok ok lets get this thread back on track.  :laughing:

got on the phone today and got a few prices for a clutch

3 quotes in total,

1.ceramic plate clutch and heavy duty pressure plate, fly wheel machining and gearbox service  ~$1200.

2.heavy duty clutch kit $1650 from C&V

3.brass button heavy spring clutch with 7.5kg lightened flywheel $2200

all prices are fitted, which would be the best value?

I cant remember what kind of clutch C&V was offering.

everyone of these clutches is supposed to hold up to 700hp

I want something that isnt going to be a nightmare on the road as this car is my daily driver, I can stand a clutch that is a bit heavier bu I dont want something that's going to be really harsh on the Gear Box.( I know that largely depends on my left foot, but im talking about smooth takeoffs and the like)

I also am getting the bosch injectors (dont worry I wont ask any dumd Q's about these) :nono:

and might get a Eboost2 to replace the standard factory boost controller

just wanted oppinions as to whether I am moving in the right directions with these mods.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Look at the extreme cluch, Muzza fitted one with his six speed and is very happy, I doubt it will handle 700hp, but I doubt too many people have 700hp to worry about, muzza has around 290rwkw an all is good.

I cant see how you need aboost controler, either the factory program is not working at all, which would show a fault code, or a bit of smoke and mirrors is going on.

The factory boost control stuff is fine, the factory PCM has more ability than an aftermarket E-Boost is ever going to have, dont waste your money, everything is linked togehter, fuel, timing, boost, if you remove control of one, you mess with all the others.

Chexk if it is your boost controler, there are only tow parts, the solinoid and the actuator, the acctuator is easy to check, just un plug the hose from it and see what boost you get, if you can hold 9-10psi on astck exhaust/intake, all is good.

if its the solinoid, take it to ford and have them replace it, I doubt it will be though, it is apretty simple bit of gear.

it lives just below and behind the battery on the chassis rail, it has a plug and one hose in the top and a hose in from the side, unplug the hoses and the plug, the solinoid lifts up off its mount.

once you have it out flush it with electro cleaner/solvent, make sure it isnt blocked with crap, some times the oil from the trubo can gum them up.

put it back in and off you go, but dont get sold a dummy and cough out from parts you dont need, too amny shops, and im not saying C&V, are only to happy to have simple problems fixed with expensive parts that arnt allways required, valve springs are the No favorite.

Read lots hear and learn, but dont get sold a dummy.

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  • Member For: 19y 8m 16d
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well from what all you guys are telling me im having serious doubts about C&V

they also Quoted me $2000 for valve springs and drilled injectors.I take it this is expensive compared to other shops?

edit:I have the T5 igsta.

Edited by built2redline
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