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Annoying Problem!


pumped81

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  • Member For: 19y 11m 17d
  • Location: Tassie

I have a capa box, and use the generic 10psi map (can't get a custom tune down here in tassie!!).

Car seems to run fine except for when the temperature rises to about a quarter on the guage, it accelerates really sluggish and surges when off the throttle, it carries on like this for a few minutes then settles back to normal????

Any ideas?

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  • Member For: 21y 1m
  • Location: Brissy

Have you gapped your plugs? I also installed generic 10psi map a week ago, have read some user have problems with spark being blown out at high rpm etc but mines been running awesome for the past week peaking at 12psi until yesterday it started spluttering over 5000rpm so in with some newly gapped plug this arvo, will let you know how it goes.

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  • Member For: 20y 2m 14d
  • Location: Gold Coast

I've had the gap problem, brought it down to .89mm, but they still blow out!

Also mine has gone into a rough idle, like an overfuel & then cleared itself after a few seconds!

My white T keeps turning off the TC on the 7PSI & 10 PSI map!

I also believe the exhaust valve springs are staying open as it will also make a deep noise sometimes!

Russ

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  • Member For: 21y 1m
  • Location: Brissy

Have not yet regapped plugs, but as I mentioned in first post the car only started spluttering and surging after a week when down to <80km fuel left. I filled up again this morning, both times with BP Ultimate, and now with the full tank, no more spluttering full rpms full boost no worries.

I'm still going to gap the plugs actullay got a new set of irdiums for free, so may as well put em in.

Anyway Could this be dangerous engine wise, like leaning out etc, and what to do about it? Fuel pump or injectors or surge tank?

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  • Member For: 19y 10m 26d
  • Location: Perth WA

I'm running generic 10psi map also, with 2nd CAI and K&N. Haven't regapped plugs yet.

Runs great when cool, but blows out spark at higher revs when warm. I can prevent this with gradual throttle application which is still plenty quick on the street. I will regap the plugs eventually.

Over 5000rpm on WOT, I get a rumbling sound from the exhaust and rougher running, almost vibrating engine. I think it drops a cylinder - this could be valve springs? Just spoke with Geea who suggested that a freer flowing exhaust will reduce back pressure which in turn should lessen valve spring issues. Gutting your cat (not the animal) or getting a high flow cat makes the standard Ford exhaust much freer flowing.

I also get a drop of revs and rough running when the temp gauge hits 1/4. Its always happened - even stock and seems to be a product of coming off the rich warm-up mix. Its soon gets over it and I just live with it.

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  • Member For: 21y 1m
  • Location: Brissy

Thanks Mark and Geea, I have a magic cat on the way from the rotary group buy, and also lower temp thermostat from AWC, interesting Mark about your temp, mine sits between 1/4 and 1/2 closer to 1/2 and always has since new .

P.S Brunks my 10psi map also kills the TC and disables it, I left it on the first day I installed the edit as it was wet road and wanted to watch the light to see what PSI traction lost but you mgiht want to turn it off your self every time you start car, as some have had CV problems from the TC fighting the boost.

Cheers

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  • Member For: 19y 11m 17d
  • Location: Tassie

I have not had the plugs gapped, it might be a solution. I really don't know enough about the engine to know what is causing it.

Mine also runs fine when cold, but as soon as the temp rises it surges and causes the car to jolt, which is very embarassing when it happens as a I take off from a set of lights because sometimes it stalls, the only way I can stop it is to push the clutch in and ride it out with high revs.

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Unfortunately 10psi is starting to get to the limits of the Ford quality control and engineering 'think tank'. At this boost level you CAN run into problems such as faulty valve springs, spark blowout (too wide a factory gap), poorly fitted hoses from factory, cheap clamps falling off on parts of the system. All normal stuff to anyone that knows these cars well. Right?

All of which is why we supply a lower boost 8psi map. For those that are less than mechanically minded, and dont know how to tighten a hose clamp, or recognise lifter pump up due to valve spring float, this is the program for you. When installed the 8psi map will give performance above and beyond that of the factory program without butting heads against the quality and design gremlins that Ford build into these cars.

Having said that there are some cars (the majority actually) that are built 'right' off the production line which never have a problem at 10psi.....

Edited by Street Tuner
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  • Member For: 20y 2m 14d
  • Location: Gold Coast
Unfortunately 10psi is starting to get to the limits of the Ford quality control and engineering 'think tank'.

That ones a bit harsh on Ford.

the cars work fine from factory with none of the above problems, they haven't set the cars up to run 10 PSI or more.Common on all turbo cars is to blow out the spark when you up the boost, you should know this if you've worked on a high performance turbos.

the Valve spring problem is caused by the increase in back pressure when increasing the boost!

Both of these can hardly be attributed to a Ford quality control, their quality control on this is fine on a stated spec of 240KW!!!

The magic cat will help the valve spring problem as it will free up the back pressure past the turbo!

Russ

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