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  • Member
  • Member For: 20y 10m 20d

As anyone with computer mods would know, rear-end traction is compromised to say the least.

Just interested to hear from everyone at what power levels traction became an issue whether it be in 1st, 2nd or god for bid even 3rd :blush:

To create a level playing field lets just talk under acceleration in a straight line on a dry road.

Sample:

Auto '03 XR6T

Original CAPA generic 10psi tune - full traction

230rwkw custom tune- 1st. With newish 235/40/18 tyres

250rwkw custom tune - 2nd. With newish 235/40/18 tyres

BTW All video clips (aka Xtreme Tuning) welcome :spoton:

Link to comment
https://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/22038-traction-vs-power/
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  • Member
  • Member For: 20y 7m 14d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Newcastle NSW

I am not sure of my excact RWKW number, but the 300mark would be close, maybe a little over, but with half worn Dunlops, traction can be an issue, if your gentle, it is OK, but lay the slipper in and at around 3000rpm in 1st, she starts playing the spinny song, if you keep your foot down and let it change itself, (AUTO) into second at 5800 rpm, the blue smoke continues, for as long as you like, then if you get free tyres :spoton: , at an indicated 140kph, third will be selected to continue the smoke show.

I have drawn lines (nice matching pairs) over 200 meters long, on a private road of coarse, the only light spots are where the gears change, and where you lift your foot at an indicated 160-170 kph and the car accelarates and the smoke stops.

It is fun, but tends to wear out the tyres.

My first set of rears lasted nearly 30K, I dont think this set will.

  • Team Bute
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 21y 9m 15d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Adelaide

Traction is more an issue of how you drive, and how much torque is available.(Not power)

You can have 270 plus rwkw and NOT break traction (due to progressive linear ramp profile (constrained at low rpm, linear to peak at high rpm).

(This was case with APS PH2 in my ute.... no traction issues in the dry, unless I stalled up converter to 2500 rpm :blush: )

OR

you can have an edited car with around 220 rwkw, but which provides it at 2400 rpm :spoton:

and it'll crossup and keep you on your toes, wet or dry... slide all over the place... especially if the gearbox settings are tweaked as well.

tom

  • Here since the start...
  • Lifetime Members
  • Member For: 22y 4d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Victoria

I agree with Tom.

I can tell you when I was in Brian's car with 400 odd rwkw's it spun the wheels in 4th!

  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 20y 3m 26d
  • Location: Perth
I am not sure of my excact RWKW number, but the 300mark would be close, maybe a little over, but with half worn Dunlops, traction can be an issue, if your gentle, it is OK, but lay the slipper in and at around 3000rpm in 1st, she starts playing the spinny song, if you keep your foot down and let it change itself, (AUTO) into second at 5800 rpm, the blue smoke continues, for as long as you like, then if you get free tyres :ph34r: , at an indicated 140kph, third will be selected to continue the smoke show.

I have drawn lines (nice matching pairs) over 200 meters long, on a private road of coarse, the only light spots are where the gears change, and where you lift your foot at an indicated 160-170 kph and the car accelarates and the smoke stops.

It is fun, but tends to wear out the tyres.

My first set of rears lasted nearly 30K, I dont think this set will.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

My 6 speed will break traction rolling along in 2nd or 3rd gear in it's current trim on dry roads. Not at low engine speed either, but as revs climb over 4000rpm. It's how I've tuned it and I like the way it feels. It's quite humorous pulling out to overtake in either of those gears and painting black lines on the road.

Doing skids from standstill is easy, and if your quick on the shift (in a manual) and have a good clutch go can do 3rd and 4th gear burnouts. However, that's not an indication of power; rather, a lack of traction.

  • Member
  • Member For: 19y 9m 28d
  • Location: Newcastle NSW

I must be doing something wrong, as I can't break traction unless I hold foot on brake, spool her up a bit. Then it will it will spin for about 4 feet.

This is the same with 8psi or 10 psi. On std tune forget it. Have to find someone to do a custom tune, that may help!

  • Im the one and only
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 20y 3m 22d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: In my house

Mines an auto and even in a stinking hot day, ifyou ease it off the mark and then tromp it at 20kph,it will spin with ease,sending you sideways up the road.

On cold nights it will spin 2nd gear(auto) at 80kph as you put your foot into it.

At times when rices or older V8,s want to have a rolling run,they insist on 40kph starts which is a pain in the arse,so I run in 2nd gear instead and use the T,s torque factor :o from low revs and works a treat. :ph34r:

  • Site protagonist
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  • Member For: 21y 11m 18d
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  • Location: At the lights, waiting for you.

With my old tyres traction was a myth. With the new tyres I only have traction problems when the roads are cold. During the day with 20C+ I don't usually loose traction.

Geea. :ph34r:

Guest xrtwpn
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With my old tyres traction was a myth. With the new tyres I only have traction problems when the roads are cold. During the day with 20C+ I don't usually loose traction.

Geea. :o

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Craig is right depends on car setup and tyres, Manuals you can force the car to loose it so it comes down to how you drive

I think a true 350rwkw is really going to smoke the tyres no matter what on the street try driving an auto with 380rwkw eveyday even trying to over take on the freeway becomes a problem :ph34r: But geez it looks impressive

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