Jump to content

WA Spotted & Chit Chat Thread


cunners

Recommended Posts

  • Member
  • Member For: 16y 4m 27d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, Western Australia

What's so crap about them ?

They still work don't they for a Wagon?

Something about crap internals and two pinion vs four pinion.

Call some diff places and get some advice. I know the basic theory but not the exact details. Ask about AU vs BA/BF diffs. What I'm writing is here is what I've gotten from talking to diff places and taxi mechanics.

The AU diffs were robust and generally lasted for years (usually forever). For the BA & BF, Ford used cheaper internal parts and went from a four pinion centre to a two pinion one. The FG ute has gone back to a four pinion centre.

300,000kms on it. Must be a crap design. Not every car is a taxi Phil.

My ba ute diff put up with 500+rwhp and oodles or torque for over 100,000kms.

Ah, but the XR6T and XR8s used a different diff to the base model XT. Different internals, I think it's Borg Warner stuff. Wreckers advertise Turbo and XR8 diffs for $1,000-1,300 (ie decent quality, expensive internals).

An XT diff can be rebuilt with good parts and a four pinion centre for around $1,200. I had this done on my last taxi. Had the diff rebuilt on Monday and the car got written off on the following Sunday. Dammit.

Tocchi's wreck is an ex-taxi. It had 380,000km on it in September last year. It might be the original diff, which might still be working perfectly or it might be noisy. The diff in Deb's taxi has just clicked over 500,000km and is still working. Taxi mechanics are stunned that hers is still going. I replaced mine last year when it was getting too noisy and pissing me off all the time - that was around 350-400,000km.

I bought a BFIII wagon wreck last year with 203,000km on it. I put the diff in my day driver's personal car (BF wagon) and it's noisy as hell. I didn't expect that from a 203,000km diff. Bugger.

Maintenance is also a determining factor. I had completely overlooked replacing the diff oil regularly until last year, so now I'm into using heavy duty 80-140 synthetic stuff. Much more expensive than the usual 80-90 mineral oil, but I want to make my diffs last longer. I'm using Penrite Pro Gear 80-140, but there are similar oils from Nulon and Castrol.

The diff from Tocchi's wreck might be fine. It might be noisy. That's my point - its a guessing game, and no-one will know the condition of the diff until it's put into a car and put to use. Nothing against Tocchi - I was gonna buy the complete wreck off him but backed off once I found out about the high km and ex-taxi status. I'm miffed - I was really looking forward to meeting the guy in person, talking about cars, etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moar Powar Babeh
  • Lifetime Members
  • Member For: 19y 2m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth

Xt and Xr diffs are the same in the beam axle. The only difference between wagon and ute diffs is the type of Ltd clutch used one is cone one is clutch.

Neither has any real world effect on the life of the differential.

A cheap diff is going to have k's on it.

I doubt Marco is going to consider $1,000 to $1,300 a cheap diff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member
  • Member For: 16y 4m 27d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, Western Australia

We want more Cabloid.

I want less.

I'll publish the other photos when I get the go-ahead from the police (ie don't want to jeopardise the case).

Not well.

Blood_On_Road_2_28_3_2015.jpg

Blood splatter:

Door_Frame_Blood_28_3_2015.jpg

Edited by PhilMeUp
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
  • Create New...
'