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  • Member For: 20y 6m 20d
  • Location: Sutherland Shire, Sydney
  Dagabond said:
Arent the bezels ON in that pic..... :laughing:

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yeah. That pic was taken before I finally got the sh*ts with them falling off and just removed them all together... :blush:

I reckon the guages look bigger and are easier to read with them off anyhow...

Chris :stirthepot:

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  Kaine said:
hey ntturbo,

They look awesome, Once you connect up the gauge any chance you can provide info of connectors used etc for the oil pressure gauge? tips for install etc.

I have the exact gauges on order should be here this week. Now if only I can get my hands on a fpv pod  :spoton:

Cheers

Kaine  :w00t2:

Yeah no worrys will do mate.

Still working on the pod, and im going to get an auto electrition to do the wiring because I cant bring myself to do it!!

Do what I did to get the pod. Go to a dealer and get a vin from an fpv in the used car yard. Just crap on that you are writing a text message and copy it to your phone!! Its the perfect crime!! :laughing:

And its definetly worth it!! :k24t:

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  • Member For: 19y 10m 1d
  • Location: Newcastle NSW
  aumatt said:
LightningXR6T: What are the part numbers and cost of the gauge pod etc?  I might try my local dealer and test me luck.

Matt

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The panel: BA2T F04428 A - x1

(this would be the panel with holes in it for the guage holders)

The 2 guage holders: BA2T 9H273 A - x2

2 Retainer Screws: BA2T 10S849 A - x2

And the 2 silver rings for the front of the guage holders: BA2T 10876 A - x2

Numbers as requested! I paid just under $200.

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  • Member For: 19y 6m 2d
  • Location: Brisbane

Went to my local dealer with these part numbers and can get everything but the bottom mount which is VIN protected. doh!

The retaining screws I would buy from a hardware as they charge you $19 + GST for them.....ouch!

I am still looking to see if I can find something somewhere. The VIN number is requested when a dealer orders them from FPV so if someone has ordered them in and the person didn't pick them up, they will gladly sell them to you.

Rob.

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  bad inferno said:
Can someone point to the thread that explains how to take the dash apart to fit the gauge panel and maybe some pics on where best to connect...I have searched for the last 40 minutes !

The existing plastic cover on your dash just pulls off. Use a flat blade screwdriver to prise it out carefully. It's held in by 4 spring clips, just the same as the FPV pod.

Once you get the cover off, the trick is to get your wiring and boost hose (if using mechanical boost gauge) down to the firewall. I used a bit of wire to thread down first (on the drivers side of the pod). Once it came through to the footwell, I attached the wires and boost line to pull them through.

The next trick is to provide clearance in the uncovered nacelle of the dash to allow the gauges to fit properly, without fouling on the dash or plastic moulding. Mechanical boost gauges tend to have their brass fitting prodruding a fair way back, requiring a bit of cutting/filing (or as one guy posted, use a soldering iron to melt away the unwanted region.... less chance of plastic swarth making a mess back there)

Once the gauge pod (with gauges) fits properly, you can work on the wiring.

Dash light control is good to have, so as to vary intensity with rest of instrument panel.

On the back of the spotlight switch, you can tap into the dash light power. There are other sources for dash light power too, but that's where I tapped in.

If you have an auto, you can pierce the rubber boot which covers the hole in the firewall where the clutch rod goes through to the engine bay (on the manuals).

Not sure where to go in the manuals.... might need to drill a new hole and use a grommet/silicon sealant to prevent fumes getting back into cabin.

With wiring/boost hose through to engine bay, just a matter of attaching to sender units/boost source.

cheers

tom

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  Dagabond said:
Edit: pipped at the post. :spoton:

tom:  hey daga... too slooowww   :spoton:

Just a word of warning regarding this installation.

Good one from Zap on locating the T piece for the Oil pressure gauge:

http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...topic=13123&hl=

note the second picture from this post.....

<div class='bbimg'>

114_1478.jpg
</div>

The fitting on the left of the pressure switch, is what screws up against the banjo fitting which supplies the oil to the turbo bearing.

Be careful when tightening this fitting back on, so as NOT to rotate the banjo fitting such that it kinks the pipe, and reduces oil supply to the turbo.

It's a pain in the arse, cause there's very little room for manouvering spanners back there.

I ended up using some small vise grips to lock onto the banjo fitting to hold it so as it would NOT rotate whilst tightening the fitting.

If you kink that banjo fitting, you might be able to straighten it and restore the oil flow. If it requires repacing, its about $120 over the Ford Spares counter.

Whilst I had mine out, I modified it with a brass T fitting to mount an oil temp sender.

cheers

tom

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  • Member For: 19y 10m 1d
  • Location: Newcastle NSW
  Robit28 said:
Went to my local dealer with these part numbers and can get everything but the bottom mount which is VIN protected. doh!

The retaining screws I would buy from a hardware as they charge you $19 + GST for them.....ouch!

I am still looking to see if I can find something somewhere. The VIN number is requested when a dealer orders them from FPV so if someone has ordered them in and the person didn't pick them up, they will gladly sell them to you.

Rob.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

2 Retainer Screws: BA2T 10S849 A - x2

Sorry, these aren't screws, they are a silver insert that covers the gauge securing bolts that face the windscreen.

Kloster Ford here in Newcastle carry all these parts in stock!

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