Stock 4 Spd Autos And Edit

[turb06]

Oil cooler and regular fluid changing can handle more power than what seems to be the perception, obviously chucking lots of skids is gonna f*ck your auto super quick, but it should handle 260kw no probs.

On gearboxes, I had the oil changed at the last service and I cant believe what a difference it made, car became much more responsive from a stand still and seems to be putting more power to the ground.

Dazza.

[Draytox]

What sort of fluid is "good fluid"? or just use the standard ford stuff and replace more frequently.

Brett

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Either Castrol Transmax Z or Penrite 10 Tenths Race ATF.

Heard a lot of good things about the Castrol and not much about the Penrite but all Penrite stuff that I have used is the shiznit.

Cheers

[turb06]

my trans started to get a bit doughy at around 240rwkw and I had the valve body mod done and it survived to around 270rwkw. having said that my trans was one of the early ones that didnt have the kevlar clutched and bands and my right foot is made of lead so its pretty heavy. im not really sure how high u can go now with the new edit software being able to increase line pressure. 

best way to go would be to keep cranking up the hp and torque till it fails then get it rebuilt at least then u know exactly what it takes to kill it......

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

what year is your car?

Dazza.

[GOLDIE]

Our car has now just started to slip going into 3rd gear we have had over 250 rwkw's for 70,000 km's we now are running 319rwkw's for the last 10,000 k's and with 104,000 k's on the clock we have done well.

We have a very large cooler and sepperate fan for the transmisson and changed the oil every 20,000 k's with penrite but not the synthetic oil but I will be using this after the trans rebiuld next week.

Ian

[Ralph Wiggum]

my trans started to get a bit doughy at around 240rwkw and i had the valve body mod done and it survived to around 270rwkw. having said that my trans was one of the early ones that didnt have the kevlar clutched and bands and my right foot is made of lead so its pretty heavy. im not really sure how high u can go now with the new edit software being able to increase line pressure. 

best way to go would be to keep cranking up the hp and torque till it fails then get it rebuilt at least then u know exactly what it takes to kill it......

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

what year is your car?

Dazza.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

july o3 ute.

[mk11tute]

mine quit at 260rwkw!!

[bugster70]

Hmm, it does seem that people have varying experiences, but this could be mainly down to driving style I guess! I certainly won't be doing any burnouts or the like, but will almost certainly use WOT from both rolling and standing starts occasionally.

I'll take your advice and have the tranny fluid replaced with something better than what it has now, and am also seriously considering a cooler as well (as I understand these are relatively cheap). Are all coolers much of a muchness, or are some definitely better than others? Any recommendations please? And about what should it cost to purchase and have fitted? Cheers guys!!

[blueboost]

Hi, my xr6t, has got line presure lifted, and a tranny cooler, I have about 270-280rwkws, I run Penrite ATF Synthetic, I do 1.7+ 60fts at the drags(well over 200 runs) and the rest is stock no problems yet, but I think it is very important to bring the torque curve in smoothly, (and the car will be a lot quicker as well by keeping traction) 270 can be a quick car on the street if the power is smooth. mine has run 12.2 @ 113.98mph with standed dunlops.get a cooler about 240 x240ish mm

pwr, b&m, and others are fine and they are easy to fit.

ps; hi Brett did you get your pipework on? and cooler?

David

[JB]

There are numerous posts on this. From experiences when we were just starting to understand the limitations of the car, it was researched that on avg you could say 240rwkw was about as far as you would want to take the auto, before some form of strengthening was required.

It was also agreed that like most component failures in the T it was dependant on the individual car as there are so many different tolerances for each car out there. Not also forgetting driving style was extremely important in the long term durability of the auto.

Some people may get more some have got less, but on avg you can say 240rwkw on you will need to factor in possibly a cooler, up the pressures etc. It you are looking to go 300rwkw plus go all out and for about $1500-$2000 you can pretty much have a bullet proof auto.

Personally if you are going to mod, and want a reliable daily driver then you must budget to strengthen components like this the minute you start to dial in more power.

Cheers

JB

[blueboost]

There are numerous posts on this. From experiences when we were just starting to understand the limitations of the car, it was researched that on avg you could say 240rwkw was about as far as you would want to take the auto, before some form of strengthening was required.

It was also agreed that like most component failures in the T it was dependant on the individual car as there are so many different tolerances for each car out there. Not also forgetting driving style was extremely important in the long term durability of the auto.

Some people may get more some have got less, but on avg you can say 240rwkw on you will need to factor in possibly a cooler, up the pressures etc. It you are looking to go 300rwkw plus go all out and for about $1500-$2000 you can pretty much have a bullet proof auto.

Personally if you are going to mod, and want a reliable daily driver then you must budget to strengthen components like this the minute you start to dial in more power.

Cheers

JB

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I think that somes it up well