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  • CNUTOX
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  • Member For: 22y 4m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Not sure?

The other issue is the cold start map on the factory ecu. I had to gun it to get out of as street, and then had to stop about 200 metres down the road at some lights. The car started rocking like it was running on 3 cylinders, so basically I overfuelled the engine when I gave it the squirt. It runs very rich on cold start.

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  • Moderating Team
  • Member For: 22y 3m 26d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Sydney
  cobrav8 said:
Hey - dont knock the three cylinder cars - my little Suzuki Fronte 3 cylinder 2 stroke is a powerhouse!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Im sure it is..... :crybaby:

  • XXR.64T
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  • Member For: 19y 11m 25d
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  • Location: sydney's east!!!

getting off the topic a lil bit how about letting it cool down after a hard drive should you let it cool down as like a turbo timer job or what?

  • Member
  • Member For: 20y 2m 26d
  • Location: The North Cooma End of Canberra...
  steven_p said:
getting off the topic a lil bit how about letting it cool down after a hard drive should you let it cool down as like a turbo timer job or what?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I've just keep my right foot under control for the last couple of minutes... Also I'll leave the engine ticking over until the very last second if there is something I have to do in the car before getting out... (eg there is a good song on the radio etc...)

  • Weird Member
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  • Member For: 22y 3m 24d
  • Location: ACT

I have been watching this for the last few days and now feel compelled to add my bit.

In the late 80’s I got my first car, an Aussie V8, it was the only car in my group of friends that could do burnouts and doughnuts in reverse….for a while anyway. Then when the auto craped out I had no 2nd or reverse.

This meant that 1st thing in the morning (sub zero temps outside) I would back out the drive, drive to the bottom of the hill, turn the corner and then approximately 30 seconds after turning it on I would drive holding it flat to the floor aaccelerating to then holding 5500rpm in first for about 30 seconds until it changed into 3rd. :tease:

The transmission of course died a few months later.

Several years later when I got the car out of the shed to rebuild it, and stripped the engine I discovered all of the top piston rings were smashed into little cubes about 3mm long. The first thing the mechanic said when he saw it was..

“Give the car a flogging when its cold did ya?” :spoton:

So I now let my cars warm up first.

My next car was a Starion Turbo, it had a thermo valve on the wastegate vacuum line that would not let it develop boost when cold.

At least that’s what I discovered when a mate said he could not drag folks at the light when his Cordia was cold as it had no boost, and I then discovered my car had the same thing, but since I always let it warm up before ‘giving it a bootfull’.

I imagine the XR6T would have the same sort of constraints put on it via the PCM.

But once again I don’t know as I let my cars warm up in the morning.

As my street leads straight onto an 80k zone, I wait till the inst L/hr drops below 5 before backing out of the garage, then drive gently until the temp gauge is past ¼.

  • Gold Platinum Member
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  • Member For: 20y 11m 1d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Victoria

Yes same here, I dont idle to warm up my T because that only warms certain parts...

I drive at below 2500rmp and less that 3psi boost intil my temp needle is at a about a quarter wich takes about 4 mituntes on average.

..Besides I find the gearbox clunky to change and other things when cold.

  • Moar Powar Babeh
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  • Member For: 19y 8m 4d
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  • Location: Perth

maybe we could read our manuals and follow what they say...i mean there only written by the engineers that design and build the motors.....!

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