New Amps For My Xr6t

[turbotom]

Ive been down this path so many times man!!   Your better off getting a decenet battery, a decent alternator and some decent power cable!! that's all im trying to say!!  wouldnt waste my money on a 200 dollar cap!

You guys are both right!

What Lawsey is saying is correct, but there is a necessity to ensure that the size of the capacitor is sufficiently large enough to cope with the current required to drive the subs.

Obviously, the more power you pump into the sub, the larger the cap will be required. And if the tempo of the bass is faster, you'll need an even bigger cap to cope as the recharge rate might not be quick enough for the next peak.

Using a larger battery and having a higher output alternator ensures that the charging capacity is improved for a better performance under high power outputs.

The buzzing, though, that was mentioned..... need good thick leads for your supply wiring to ensure you do NOT have voltage drop to amp. All connectors MUST be very low resistance.

I'm not into the doof doof in-car scene, but have over 30 years of electronic engineering behind me.....

I can suggest one sure method of minimising the problem with dimming headlights at night..... turn the bloody volume down!

[Lawsy]

It doesn't depend purely on size...

Some capacitors charge faster than others; this rate is denoted by T.

If the T is high enough then it will recharge in time for every kick, but still take enough load off the electrical system to stop the lights dimming... Fact. It doesn't need to do a hell of alot to stop the lights dimming. If it increases the charge time just by 3 (which is a VERY small increase in charge time to the near instant discharge required by a kick) then the lights will not dim as the electrical system can easily feed that sort of current (about 400W total for the entire system).

A 1 farad cap will infact, in an 800w system, increase the charge time by something like 5 - 10, not 3. More than enough thank you very much.

Most of the time, when people say "I've been down this path way to many times" or "EVERYONES DOING IT MAN!", this usually means 1 or 2. A big everyone is 3, an absolutely massive everyone is 4....

You've probable had 1 experience on the topic. Maybe 2.

All a capacitor needs to do is take the noise out of the input current signal. Noise is classified as anythig that disturbs this signal from the source. A lack of current can be considered noise, and a 1 farad cap will easily cope with an 800W sub amp, in whatever configuration it might be.

I don't go by the per 500 rule.

I say 0.5 farad for the first 300w, then 0.5 farad for every 500w after, not 0.5 per 500w total, I'll always recomment my mates and such to have the 0.5 there for the first 300w. The extra headroom for some reason always makes so many smaller problems just go away...

So HUSTLER, sorry mate, but spenind uyp on a better altinator is just stupid.

I would do the following, in order.

1. Massive battery, or second battery in series with the first.

2. Capacitor of 0.5f for 300w, 0.5f per 500w thereafter.

3. New altinator if required (almost never unless you want to run a billion what RMS).

[HUSTLER]

It doesn't depend purely on size...

You've probable had 1 experience on the topic. Maybe 2.

1. Massive battery, or second battery in series with the first.

2. Capacitor of 0.5f for 300w, 0.5f per 500w thereafter.

3. New altinator if required (almost never unless you want to run a billion what RMS).

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Probly more like 20-30 mate!!! Ive had 5 different setups myself!! AS dynowog would say, The results speak for themselves!! Let him put his cap in, and we sill see whos right!!! Sounds fair enough to me!!! The subject being, that his lights will still dim, even with his farad cap!

[Lawsy]

It doesn't depend purely on size...

You've probable had 1 experience on the topic. Maybe 2.

1. Massive battery, or second battery in series with the first.

2. Capacitor of 0.5f for 300w, 0.5f per 500w thereafter.

3. New altinator if required (almost never unless you want to run a billion what RMS).

Probly more like 20-30 mate!!! Ive had 5 different setups myself!! AS dynowog would say, The results speak for themselves!! Let him put his cap in, and we sill see whos right!!! Sounds fair enough to me!!! The subject being, that his lights will still dim, even with his farad cap!

Ok, so you have done about 2 installs yourself, figured out virtually nothing, and have spoken to about 2 others about it....

Why do I say this? Because you sound like you don't have a clue... Plus, one of my mates is a sound engineer... He knows best, you don't.

Caps = win....

Case closed, lets move on, nothing more to see here.....

[Trough Lolly]

lawsy he knows his sh*t...

goto www.caraudioaustralia.com.au and mention "caps" there... youll get laughed at.

and no their not just a bunch of P platers with doof doof subs, ALOT of the members are holding australian/world records.

dont waste your time or money their all bling bling!

find me 1 SPL car in anything over street B class that runs a capacitor!!...

[F6 UTE]

lawsy he knows his sh*t...

goto www.caraudioaustralia.com.au  and mention "caps" there... youll get laughed at.

and no their not just a bunch of P platers with doof doof subs, ALOT of the members are holding australian/world records.

dont waste your time or money their all bling bling!

find me 1 SPL car in anything over street B class that runs a capacitor!!...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

He needs more power than the stock electrical system will supply, Either he gets a small whack from a cap, or he hooks in a bigger battery, or runs a secondary battery in the boot.

Simple answer to what was really a small problem.

[Lawsy]

lawsy he knows his sh*t...

goto www.caraudioaustralia.com.au  and mention "caps" there... youll get laughed at.

and no their not just a bunch of P platers with doof doof subs, ALOT of the members are holding australian/world records.

dont waste your time or money their all bling bling!

find me 1 SPL car in anything over street B class that runs a capacitor!!...

He needs more power than the stock electrical system will supply, Either he gets a small whack from a cap, or he hooks in a bigger battery, or runs a secondary battery in the boot.

Simple answer to what was really a small problem.

SPL has nothing to do with this. Its laughable that SPL has even been mentioned.

SPL cars produce ONE TONE under competion circumstances. A capacity has NO AFFECT when the charge draw and the discharge rate are the same (single tone at max discharge rate); the cap will act like a simple wire in this instance (because when a cap is near 0% charge, its charge rate is higher than its discharge rate, thus it acts like normal wire, but a little slower).

Because of this, they have to have the electrical system to supply the full current to the amps. So either in comps or out on the street, they alraedy have the electrical system to provide more than enough current... Thus capacitors are made reduntand.

But are we talking about SPL cars? NO!

We are talking a street car with a good sound system that has no intention on entering a compatition.

This is why I'm telling hustler that he hasn't a clue. He isn't addressing the situation and is blatantly talking crap. We have already discussed why, I'm not going to go over it again...

This guy hasn't built his car around sound comps. Having subs already cuts boot space, so taking any more away would be even more frustrating and make it harder again to take the subs out if he wanted to go on a long trip and had a bit of luggage.

He isn't some punk P plater (and don't tell me that forum isn't full of them... Some of them have the average intelligence of a counter strike forum and are compensating for something, and I didn't say ALL of them, so don't take this out of context) who prioritises his sound gear over... His own life...

He has real life priorities and isn't going to change alternators (a basic one is 250+labour, some of the better ones are above 600USD) just to power some subs when a 200 dollar cap will fix his problem easily and give him stronger kicks...

I say stronger kicks because remember, when the rest of the system is suffering [lights dimming], this means that the electrical system is maxing out its output power, therefore, its output is slightly limited and thus the big notes may be clipping a little bit as the amp is trying to draw current that simply isn't there; a cap fixes this.

Clearly the stock electrical system is a strong one (just not strong enough) so average power delivery is high enough to keep the cap topped up under almost all conditions, bar the big peaks, where the cap provides the hit.

Its practical, easy, much cheaper, and will provide crisper bass peaks at the same time. Now move on.

And don't mention SPL cars again, or a forum full of people who have a little bit to much time and money.

[IH8TOADS]

pi$$ the factory head unit off if you want decent sound to start with. My subs sound (rap compared to when they were running off my alpine deck. In fact they are so terrible I wouldnt recommend anyone going to the hassle of installing subs using the factory head unit. I initially thought it would be great to use the std head unit, but now I realise that the sound is shocking (good but shocking if you know what I mean) My girlfriends standard laser stereo sounds better than my premium sound!!!

[Trough Lolly]

bla bla bla bla... this is the gayest thread ever.