New Amps For My Xr6t

[XR06T]

I'd say you only need a cap for you sub amp mate.

the bass kicks are sucking all the power.

a cap will defn make the light dimming go away.

sounds like a nice system but to get that 1200.1 working another one of those L7 subs would be awesome. The amp will put out 1200wrms a 1ohm but your current setup is only running at 2ohms, thus only(!?) using 600wrms!

bet it sounds awesome but

pics?

PS for those in the know would you still need a cap if you were to run a drycell odysey battery?

[nang3]

what about upgrading your alternator, seeing as that's what supplies the electrical power anyway???

and lawsy caps arent totally necessary, I agree they can help but ive hit 151db with no caps or power mods whatsoever..

[F6 UTE]

what about upgrading your alternator, seeing as that's what supplies the electrical power anyway???

and lawsy caps arent totally necessary, I agree they can help but ive hit 151db with no caps or power mods whatsoever..

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

You probably did mate, but was the car being driven at night with the headlights on? or was it parked up during the day/night with an SPL meter sitting in it??

You would have hit the db within 30 seconds of cranking her up yeah?

[AdamQball]

I'd say you only need a cap for you sub amp mate.

the bass kicks are sucking all the power.

a cap will defn make the light dimming go away.

sounds like a nice system but to get that 1200.1 working another one of those L7 subs would be awesome. The amp will put out 1200wrms a 1ohm but your current setup is only running at 2ohms, thus only(!?) using 600wrms!

bet it sounds awesome but

pics?

PS for those in the know would you still need a cap if you were to run a drycell odysey battery?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Mate it sounds F%@kin awsome even at low volume levels you can feel the car vibrate. But I am thinking about putting another L7 in there and getting somesort of custom fiberglass moulding done in the boot to mount the subs , amps so I can show off all the bling bling

And thanx for all the replies I am going to get caps and if my wife :cussing: hasnt killed me by then for buying more stuff for the car then I will try get a good battery

[HUSTLER]

sorry this might be a dumb question but my Kicker KX1200.1 class D Amp came with a factory test certificate stating 1450 watts total power and my Kicker KX650.4 was rated at 650 on its cetificate  So does that mean I need 2 0ne farad caps ?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Huslter,

Why would a CAP make no difference when the car is running ( at night ). If the car ( as mentioned ) has the headlights on with foggies and AMPs drawing say 600W rms every 2 seconds, it's a fair load on the charging system??

I had the excact same problem, and I was running a HCCA225 ( 1 ohm mono )with a Punch 40 ( 2 ohm stereo ) @ full noise the headlights would dim at every bass hit, it's pretty simple..

Ever been towed at night with your headlights & hazard lights on and car not running?? average battery lasts about 15/20 mins.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Honestly I dont care if ya disagree, but im tellin you to make a sidnificant difference in his system you would need AT LEAST 5 farad, 1-2 farad would make NO fricken differnce!!! If you want more power then get a new alternator or get your current one rewound or whateva they do! MAke a truck alternaotr fit!! And get a bigger better battery!! Optima deep cycle yellow tops are a bargain at 400 bucks!! The CAPS ARE f*ckING USELESS !! (unless you want to spend big and get something decent!) Ive was in car stereos bigtime at one point, and I pretty much know my sh*t I recon!! I mean go ahead, go get a 2 farad cap!! but dont come back here and say f*ck it made no difference!! cause it f*cking wont!!!

test the voltage at the amp yourself!! you dont wont it to drop below 11.2 - should get as high as 14.4 with car running, and sumthin like 12.4 while the car is turned off. Test this, then put ya 1 farad cap on, see if it makes a differnce of even 0.1, if ya lucky!! I just dont think the cap is goin to make any difference!!

Talking from NUMEROUS NUMEROUS experiences here!!!

Ive competed at autosalon sound offs b4 and done quite well!! Musta done sumthin right!!!

Edited 14/09/05 09:34 AM by HUSTLER

[HUSTLER]

a cap will defn make the light dimming go away.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

BULLsh*t!! PROVE IT

[Lawsy]

a cap will defn make the light dimming go away.

BULLsh*t!! PROVE IT

The lights are in parallel with a 12V vcc line which is in parallel to the auxilary system, which is in series with the primary electrical system (which is capped).

Amps draw more current in a single kick than the entire electrical system on the entire car car. In general, the amps do not draw current at even remotely consistant rates, but usually provide massive hits in short intervals... These hits are in the order of 10 times the cars electrical system (1000WRMS is probably 20 times the rest of the system and about 7 times more than all the lights on the entire car (brakes, blinkers, beams, high beams) on all at the same time).

Now just think for a moment... What do you reckon might happen in this situation, seeing as the amps are running in parallel with both the primary and auxilary system. Now, the primary is capped (running the ECU etc) so it is unaffected by a messy/inconsistant input current, but the auxilary system isn't.

So either the battery+charge circuit needs to produce enough instant current to feed the amp the full requirement, as well as the electrical system, or act in a certain way as described by the current divider rule. This rule states that the current will split up between different paths of a circuit as a ratio of the resistance down each path, this rule from memory is [Output current down the path of R2]=([input current] *Resistance in R1)/(Resistance in R1+Resistance in R2)

or

Iout = (Iin*R1) / (R1+R2))

A quick glance tells you that as R2 decreases that the Iout down the path of R2 increases.... Not difficult.

Using this with ohms law, you can clearly see that because 'V' is always 12v, that when 'R' decreases, 'I' must increase. And when 'R' approches 0 (never quite gets there, but starts going in that direction almost instantly) then 'I' must also ramp up as a consequence...

You work it out yourself, when the battery all of a sudden sees almost no resistance down the path of the amps, what do you think is going to happen? It doesn't take a friggen genius to work that one out... The current is going to go, oh hell yes, and shoot its way down that path, leaving the rest of the system to fend for itself for a while until the ratio resistance is leveled out slightly.

So now that you know why the lights will dim, lets tell you exactly why a capacitor is going to remove this affect.

Capacitors are seen by the circuit simply as a power source. The circuit connected to the cap doesn't know where the power is coming from, it just knows that it is going to draw current and hopes that the power source can meet its requirements.

A capacitor stores charge, like a battery, and charges up over a period of time (a few seconds, whereas a battery takes hours). BUT, it can discharge all of its power at once if need be, a battery is limited by its AmpHour rating.

When a sub kicks hard, it is drawing that power from the capacitor, not directly from the electrical system. So after the sub kick has occured, the capacitor is charged by the system at a much slower rate in comparison to the discharge induced by the amps (the sub kick).

Even if its a mega quick charging (say, 0.2s to 63%) cap, the current drawn to charge at this rate is MUCH lower than the near instantaneous (a few milliseconds) discharge of the capacitor when the amps require it....

So, basically the system is given time to recharge the capacitor before the next sudden discharge, at a constant and managable rate, than if the discharge had to come from the system itself.

Yes, the total average power drawn is the same, but it is able to be drawn over a longer period of time.

So, as a consequence, the lights (being part of the un capped auxilary system) wont dim because there is never enough current drawn elsewhere in the circuit to limit the amount of current that can be supplied to this auxilary system...

If you can't see what this means, then don't discuss anything technical with anyone, ever again. Infact, wear a T shirt that says "I'm with stupid, me" or "technically illiterate" with an arrow pointing up...

Its just SO EASY to understand all this that it isn't funny. Caps charge over time, amps draw near instant current, lights dim from instant lack of current... 2 + 2 = 4...

I might be giving you the absolute worst explanation you've ever heard, but this crap is still so basic to see that my pathetic attemp at explaining it should still get the message accross..

[F6 UTE]

Now Hustler, mate... What Lawsy was trying to make you understand is maybe, just maybe the AMP SUCKS ALL THE POWER FROM THE CHARGING SYSTEM LEAVING NOTHING FOR THE HEADLIGHTS TO RUN ON.

Of course the amp never reads lower than "11.2V" mate, the power supply to the amp isn't what he's complaing about.

Yeah??

[HUSTLER]

a cap will defn make the light dimming go away.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

BULLsh*t!! PROVE IT

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

So, as a consequence, the lights (being part of the un capped auxilary system) wont dim because there is never enough current drawn elsewhere in the circuit to limit the amount of current that can be supplied to this auxilary system...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

OK I agree with what your saying is technically correct BUT, put it into theory that he goes and gets his pissy 2 farad cap!!! MATE IT AINT GUNNA DO sh*t!!! I PUT A SLAB/CARTON ON IT MATE!!!! I GARENTEE THAT WITH ONE OR TWO FARADS HIS LIGHTS STILLLLLLLLLL DIMMMM!!!!!!!!

[HUSTLER]

Ive been down this path so many times man!! Your better off getting a decenet battery, a decent alternator and some decent power cable!! that's all im trying to say!! wouldnt waste my money on a 200 dollar cap!