New Amps For My Xr6t

[AdamQball]

Hi all

Hope someone can help I have just had a new system installed XR6T

1 Kicker Solo Baric L7 Subwoofer S12L7D4

pioneer TS-C160R in the front

Pioneer TS-A6981S rear

Kicker KX1200.1 Amp

Kicker KX650.4 Amp

Factory head unit

I have a few small problems 1.after a bit of thrashing and I turn it down I get a buzzing sound from my rear speakers if I turn it off for a hour or so and then turn it back on its fine again ?.I think its drawing far to much power because if the volumes up all my lights INC head and tail lights pulse with the music.It looks cool but I dont think the cops will like it B) what would be the best way to fix it.Apart from that its great. B)

[wicksy]

so you have the speakers running off the amp? if so you might have turb your gains down or get a capacitor

[F6 UTE]

Depends on how much current it's drawing. I fixed mine with a big a$$ battery. I'm not sure what size is in the falc, but I ran a 600CCA 13 plater. That stopped the dim dim dim at night for me..

As mentioned, you may have to get a stiffening cap, just a .5 farad should do it. ?? the specs of your amp though..

[veczar]

0.5 farad per 500W RMS is a rule of thumb I have heard to use. So maybe a 1 farad cap would be ideal at about $90.

You usually only need cap's for the amps that drive subwoofers.

This is probably a better idea than a new battery.

[IH8TOADS]

Interesting.......I just whacked an alpine V12 mono channel amp and 2 S type subs in mine last night. I had these together with Alpine head unit, MD player+equalizer, another amp, splits etc in my last car and the subs dont sound anywhere as good as my last car they were in.

My brother used 2 capacitators in his car and a small odyssey battery and the lights were fine (he has 3 Type R subs, 3 amps, MB quart 3 way splits, alpine DVD player/screen)?? Good luck mate.

[Bain]

Interesting.......I just whacked an alpine V12 mono channel amp and 2 S type subs in mine last night. I had these together with Alpine head unit, MD player+equalizer, another amp, splits etc in my last car and the subs dont sound anywhere as good as my last car they were in.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Read the quoted part in bold IH8PORK..that's why they wont sound as good as your current setup with the stocko headunit in the BA.

Edited 13/09/05 04:04 AM by Bain

[AdamQball]

0.5 farad per 500W RMS is a rule of thumb I have heard to use. So maybe a 1 farad cap would be ideal at about $90.

You usually only need cap's for the amps that drive subwoofers.

This is probably a better idea than a new battery.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

sorry this might be a dumb question but my Kicker KX1200.1 class D Amp came with a factory test certificate stating 1450 watts total power and my Kicker KX650.4 was rated at 650 on its cetificate So does that mean I need 2 0ne farad caps ?

[HUSTLER]

While the car is running, the cap is going to make I <3 Bananas all difference!! You'd need 10 farad to even notice any difference!! Doesn't really sound like a power problem to me, sounds like you have a dodgy amp more then anything!! I'd be trying another amp first and see what happens, even swap the front and rears around and see if the problem reverses?

If its not the amp, it be looking at wat line level convertors have been used and the quailty of the cable from the convertor to the amp! Maybe try a different line level convertor?

This might sound dumb but make sure the back speaker wires are completly d/c from the original head unit wiring!

Also how has the main power for the amps been run? is it a new cable straight from the battery? If not, it bloody should be!!! (cause the pissy wire ford use is totally sh*t for what you are trying to do!!) Make sure the power wire hasnt been run on top of some of the speaker wire! If so rerun all the speaker wire up the other side of the car!!!, You should be able to run the power wire up the middle of the car but!! that's what I have done!

But first, id be trying annother amp!

[F6 UTE]

sorry this might be a dumb question but my Kicker KX1200.1 class D Amp came with a factory test certificate stating 1450 watts total power and my Kicker KX650.4 was rated at 650 on its cetificate  So does that mean I need 2 0ne farad caps ?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

No.

Work out how much power your amp is making in RMS ( @12V ). You will need to work out what load you have your amp set at.

As for dodgey AMP, I doubt it.

As mentioned, check your cabling. Get the fattest power AND earth cable you can, also fuse block etc etc etc if you don't already. Make sure you have good earth connection aswell.

Huslter,

Why would a CAP make no difference when the car is running ( at night ). If the car ( as mentioned ) has the headlights on with foggies and AMPs drawing say 600W rms every 2 seconds, it's a fair load on the charging system??

I had the excact same problem, and I was running a HCCA225 ( 1 ohm mono )with a Punch 40 ( 2 ohm stereo ) @ full noise the headlights would dim at every bass hit, it's pretty simple..

Ever been towed at night with your headlights & hazard lights on and car not running?? average battery lasts about 15/20 mins.

[Lawsy]

Yesterday, I had a massive post providing ample evidence as to why you would be a moron if you said 'caps make no difference when the car is running'...

But decided against it.

You can guess the point of the post though.

Caps are a great thing to have, regardless. The charging system and the battery DO NOT want to provide hits of 600 or more RMS wattage. It simply is not designed to do so and you WILL get amplifier clipping (where the amp will kick the sub really hard, but not control the 80 - 150hz range at the length of the throw, it 'clips' the sound wave to the big 60hz 'kick' and you lose musical clarity), and you will get a slight 'browning out' on the rest of the un capped system (things like the ECU are capped and are protected from this sort of thing happening).

So you goto be kidding me saying caps do nothing when the car is running, my goodness you just goto be retarded not to run caps on a high output system.

I reckon 300W or more should run a .5f cap, and add 0.5f higher for every 500W after. The reason I give this extra 200w headway is because you don't want to ever run into the limit of the cap. Some of the metal I play has the kick bassed up so damn high, its rediculous. Once the double kicks get some action you'll find that, in a high powered un capped system, that the kicks will get softer and softer and softer as the charge system and battery struggle to provide 1000wrms every 125ms (fear factory and crypsopsy can both punch 8-10 kicks per second consistantly, rediculously fast feet)....

Add a cap and the problems are solved, the kicks stay hard, the amps don't clip and the charge system doesn't weaken.

There are heaps of other great reasons to have a cap as well.. Source isolation is one of them, amp feed consistancy is another... 2 very important things if you ask me... There are plenty more and I'm sure an electrical or sound engineer could tell you what they are (can't think of them myself and couldn't be bothered to google it..).