Unichip Or Edit

[Geeseman]

  DBOSS said:

Edit can be adjusted from idle uni-jip CAN NOT!!!

Unichip can map settings from 500rpm right through to 8000rpm. This means it can make adjustments at and above idle.

If not then how would the unichip with 440cc injectors be able to maintain proper AFRs and meeting exhuast emission requirements???

  TBO240 said:

the big advantage the edit has over the uni-chip is that the rev limit can be lifted and in my lay opinion this its why alot of edit cars are know running high 11,s and low 12,s

Yes it can be lifted but the torque available above stock rpm will always neccessitate the shift to a lower gear.

APS have been in the 11's with unichip and stock rev limit for some time. C&V did a 10 with it.

[TBO240]

  Geeseman said:

  TBO240 said:

Yes it can be lifted but the torque available above stock rpm will always neccessitate the shift to a lower gear.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

please explain

[Geeseman]

  TBO240 said:

please explain

I mean to say that above 5800rpm on the stock turbo the car does not make good power. It would be best to shift down a gear and get back into the car's power band.

Having said that, the increase of the rpm in 3rd gear for autos would be good for going above 124mph or thereabouts, just don't expect it to pull hard when doing so.

For use on the street it's a non-event really.

[TBO240]

  Geeseman said:

  TBO240 said:

please explain

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I mean to say that above 5800rpm on the stock turbo the car does not make good power. It would be best to shift down a gear and get back into the car's power band.

Having said that, the increase of the rpm in 3rd gear for autos would be good for going above 124mph or thereabouts, just don't expect it to pull hard when doing so.

For use on the street it's a non-event really.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I strongly disagree with you steve if you where to do a bit of research on "optimun gear shifts"you would soon realize with the muiltipaction of torque from your gear ratio that there is a huge benifit from being able to hold 1 and second gear for longer into the rev range.

[gogo]

  XR-ENVI said:

does anyone want to give me an idea of price of EDIT (and associated tuning), I dont need prices on injectors etc. 

Also is it easy to change the Edit progrma, is it DIY once its all programmed or do you have to go back to performance place everytime?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Narelle,

This has been answered already... But...

Cheapest price for the 'ford flasher' kit which allows/performs the EDIT function seems to be about $850 - Capa (the importer/manufacturer) are advertising for $995. Add to this the cost of the custom tuning etc.

HPF will probably ask about $1500 with the custom tune - this might have come down with the drop in price of the flasher units...

Nizpro are about $1950 or but also service the car with Mobile 1

As was previously mentioned - there are other tuners so make your own enquiries - go to the Capa website...

http://www.capa.com.au/ford_flash_tuner.htm

Now as to your question about what changing maps...

The flasher unit can hold 4 different maps, one of which is the original factory map.

You can use the unit to re-flash the ECU with any of these maps at any time yourself - takes about 3 minutes with the car parked as mentioned earlier.

You cannot however alter these maps yourself. If you want a new map that is different from the 4 maps held in the flash unit (say you change injectors at a latter point - you will need different maps) this will need to be done by a tuner for you.

This would be equally true for the Unichip, Xede not so sure, but I would think you might be better off getting someone that knows what they are doing, revisit the tune in any case.

This is a good arguement as to why you might wait a little longer, and complete the main mods - particularly injectors which you will need if you want more power, or valve spring which should be highly recommended if you wish to increase rpm...

Good luck again!!!

Ben.

[Lawsy]

  TBO240 said:

  Geeseman said:

  TBO240 said:

please explain

I mean to say that above 5800rpm on the stock turbo the car does not make good power. It would be best to shift down a gear and get back into the car's power band.

Having said that, the increase of the rpm in 3rd gear for autos would be good for going above 124mph or thereabouts, just don't expect it to pull hard when doing so.

For use on the street it's a non-event really.

I strongly disagree with you steve if you where to do a bit of research on "optimun gear shifts"you would soon realize with the muiltipaction of torque from your gear ratio that there is a huge benifit from being able to hold 1 and second gear for longer into the rev range.

TBO, I whipped up a quick comparison in your other thread so that you could see the numbers behind the reasoning, that completely backs up your point of view, assuming you are running the current 4 speed auto.

Its quite interesting to note that if you have the injectors and valve springs to support it, not only do you make more wheel torque till about 7200rpm (compared with the wheel torque of the next gear) but you make roughly 15% more average power than if you had shifted at 6000rpm.... That is if you have a torque curve that is only dropping at roughly 6% per 500rpm (of peak) after 5700rpm...

Even with a 10% drop per 500rpm, shifting at 5800rpm still doesn't compete.

So if all the edit did was allow you to shift at 6200rpm and level the power curve a little, instead of 5800rpm then drop, you would have, at a guess, 4% more average power at the wheels than before.... If talking in mph, that's worth about 2-3mph on a stock T...

[turbotom]

  Lawsy said:

  TBO240 said:

  Geeseman said:

  TBO240 said:

please explain

I mean to say that above 5800rpm on the stock turbo the car does not make good power. It would be best to shift down a gear and get back into the car's power band.

Having said that, the increase of the rpm in 3rd gear for autos would be good for going above 124mph or thereabouts, just don't expect it to pull hard when doing so.

For use on the street it's a non-event really.

I strongly disagree with you steve if you where to do a bit of research on "optimun gear shifts"you would soon realize with the muiltipaction of torque from your gear ratio that there is a huge benifit from being able to hold 1 and second gear for longer into the rev range.

TBO, I whipped up a quick comparison in your other thread so that you could see the numbers behind the reasoning, that completely backs up your point of view, assuming you are running the current 4 speed auto.

Its quite interesting to note that if you have the injectors and valve springs to support it, not only do you make more wheel torque till about 7200rpm (compared with the wheel torque of the next gear) but you make roughly 15% more average power than if you had shifted at 6000rpm.... That is if you have a torque curve that is only dropping at roughly 6% per 500rpm (of peak) after 5700rpm...

At 7200 rpm ? then pick up the piston which has smashed through the side of the block....

I think the only advantage of a few more rpm, is the ability to cross the 1/4 mile in 3rd, without having to change into 4th... slight reduction of ET, as car still accellerating across line, without having to change gears.

just my opinion.

But to keep the topic on track, most dyno curves I've seen on this site of EDIT tuned cars, have a rapid rise in power (good strong torque in lower power band) and then flatten the power curve from about 4500 to 5500, with a fall off in o/p power beyond that point.

This reinforces steve's point about better to change UP (not down steve) to next gear, as it is torque that provides accelleration.

It all depends, of course, on the way the power/torque relationship is matched to the gear ratios and rolling circumference of the rear tyres.

If you've got the bottom end modified and bulletproof, and you can sustain high constant torque levels beyond 5500, then of course, max out to redline...

just my thoughts.

but then what do I know, I can't get my lard arsed ute properly off the line yet

cheers

[Lawsy]

  turbotom said:

  Lawsy said:

  TBO240 said:

  Geeseman said:

  TBO240 said:

please explain

I mean to say that above 5800rpm on the stock turbo the car does not make good power. It would be best to shift down a gear and get back into the car's power band.

Having said that, the increase of the rpm in 3rd gear for autos would be good for going above 124mph or thereabouts, just don't expect it to pull hard when doing so.

For use on the street it's a non-event really.

I strongly disagree with you steve if you where to do a bit of research on "optimun gear shifts"you would soon realize with the muiltipaction of torque from your gear ratio that there is a huge benifit from being able to hold 1 and second gear for longer into the rev range.

TBO, I whipped up a quick comparison in your other thread so that you could see the numbers behind the reasoning, that completely backs up your point of view, assuming you are running the current 4 speed auto.

Its quite interesting to note that if you have the injectors and valve springs to support it, not only do you make more wheel torque till about 7200rpm (compared with the wheel torque of the next gear) but you make roughly 15% more average power than if you had shifted at 6000rpm.... That is if you have a torque curve that is only dropping at roughly 6% per 500rpm (of peak) after 5700rpm...

but then what do I know, I can't get my lard arsed ute properly off the line yet

cheers

Yes but when it does it will be one damn quick ute...

Hey, I was purely talking about having the engine to support it...

I said injectors and valve springs, but I also meant pistons, rods, bolts and H beams

Umm, when you do have all of that, you can level the boost and fuel curve off after the normal redline...

This was purely hypothetical, but if you take a look at my other thread you'll see why... The tractive effort at the wheels, in most cases, is higher (even with less engine torque) at redline than at peak torque in the next gear... And this was with a car not tuned to run above 5500rpm that had significant drop off.

Like I said, flatten the boost and fuel after 5500rpm and power will either keep rising or level off. With that, your tractive effort will almost certainly be higher at redline than in the next gear at the same speed....

This = more average power to the road which in turn means more acceleration over the quarter... Less time, more mph.. Its all good!