Faq Section For Forum

[seventytwo]

Injector change

(thanks Eugene and Jordak)

You will need a few tools, but not alot.

I use 3/8 drice gear, allthough good quality 1/4" will do it to

8mm socket

10mm socket

some extension bars, a few are handy,

uni joint for extensions

5 mm allen key socket, (for throttle body)

Screwdriver or nut driver for the hose clamps on intake pipes.

Spray can of Carby cleaner, or electro clean etc

1: disconnect battery, it should be the first thing you do with ANY work in the engine bay.

2: remove top of air cleaner box, romove hose to to cross over.

3: remove cross over (black alloy bit), there are three 10mm headed nuts, a hose of the BOV, small, and also the vent fram the tappet cover, dont try and remove the clap from it, just slide the small stiff pipe out, loosen the other two hoses from the intercooler and turbo intake too.

4: remove the throttle body, this is where you need the allen key socket and uni-joint, there are four bolt, three are easy, the bottom front can bea pain if you are not very handy with tools, it is a tight fit over the tappet cover, but can be done. once the bolts are out, CAREFULLY, so as not to damage the gasket, remove the throttle body up, remove the larger harnss only and lay it on the tappet cover.

5: Use a small plastic bag, or bit or rag and a rubber band to cover the now open intake hole so no foriegn objects get in there.

6: Now there are tow steel brackets running from the cylinder head to the manifold, 8mm head, remove them, DONT DROP THE BOLTS.

7: Now there are also 6 little clips under the injector, these hold the injector on the rail, and help stop them from turning, now is the time to remove them, DONT DROP THEM, they are hard to find.

8: Remove the plugs from the injectors, you need a little screwdriver or pick, there is a spring steel clip which needs both sides at the same time.

9: There are four bolts holding the rail down, 10mm head I think, remove them, DONT DROP THEM.

10:, get your can of carby cleaner, spray arround the thinjectors, there will be dirt etc around them, you dont want it falling in the hole when the injectors come out, pull the rail back, some of the injectors will stick in the rail, others in the head, just give them a little twist to release the o'rings, and slide them out.

Now slide the factory ones back in, and reverse the process, take care when you are re-installing the rubber between the cross over and throttle body, it is easy to catch it and it wont sit right you will loose lots of boost.

also don't tighten the three nuts that hold the cross over on too muck, they are only on rubber mounts which are vulcanised to the tappet cover, if you tighten them too far, you may rip them off the cover.

I dont think I have forgoton any thing, if I have, I will add it later.

Takes me about an hour, if the cars not too hot.

HAVE FUN

Like most jobs, a bit fiddly first up, but took me 1/2 as long the second time around.

[Twinpiston]

Sorry to drag up an old thread, but will this fit a Territory, do they have the same setup behind the lights.

Cheers

[Rugby1au]

Installing the Typhoon snorkel CAI

Hey all,

I have received quite a few PM's over the last few months requesting more info on my CAI install. hopefully this will benefit other people who are looking at doing this mod.

Disclaimer: As with all mods, care should be taken to avoid damaging your vehicle. Whilst this is an easy mod to do, there is room for error and if you do somehow manage to cut a 30cm peanut shaped hole on the wrong side of the airbox, your own your own!!

Parts Required

You can use either one of the following. I used the Typhoon version, I think it’s the same as the BF series XR8 snorkel. I thought I’d put both down as one might be easier to obtain than the other from Ford.

BA2T 9C676 A (Typhoon)

BAF 9C676 B (XR8/XR6T?)

Tools

Pencil & ruler

Philips and flathead screwdrivers

8mm Socket wrench with extension bar

Dremel multitool

Sandpaper

Here is the measurements I used for my snorkel, no gaps and it fitted beautifully under the headlight without any probs.

1. Remove the standard inlet pipe and loosen the hose clamp on the airbox. Unclip and remove the airbox lid. Unbolt and remove the airbox from your car using an 8mm socket with extension bar.

2. Give it a quick wipe over to remove any build up of scum. Mark the 120mm x 58mm hole (this is size of the hole taking into consideration the lip of the snorkel) using the measurements I provided in pencil on the outside of the airbox.

Tip: Do not try to align the ribs on the snorkel with the outside ribs on the airbox as they do not line up. The inside ribs are what secures the snorkel to the airbox.

3. Now that you have your guide, secure the airbox so you can start cutting. I used a Dremel multitool to cut the hole, bought it from Mitre 10 for 80 bucks, which made the job really easy. If you don’t have one I’m sure a drill and hacksaw could do a similar job. I used a bench top vice to hold it in place and put some rag in it to stop the airbox from getting damaged.

Tip: You will need to round the edges slightly to allow for the lip on the snorkel, don’t cut out a perfect rectangle, or you will end up with small gaps on each corner.

4. After you have finished cutting the hole, slowly trim down each corner edge and test fit the snorkel, if it doesn’t sit flush (it will look kinda warped inside) then take a bit more off whatever side that needs it.

5. Now that you have your hole, give it a quick file and/or sand to remove any loose plastic to it doesn’t get sucked into your engine. I gave my airbox a hose out and clean and left it to dry in the sun.

6. Finally slide the snorkel under the headlight, chuck the airbox back in and bolt it up. I didn’t bother with the third bolt near the headlight as it was really fiddly to get in, but other members have got it in without any trouble using a socket through the new hole you just cut out.

7. Attach the new snorkel and stock inlet pipe. Then put the air filter back in and put on the lid.

Tip: Don’t forget to tighten the hose clamp! (I forgot!!)

This took me about 40mins all up, if your quite handy at these sorts of things, it should only take you about 20-30mins.

Good luck, :banghead:

Kaine

Monday 24th Dec 2007.

Kaine, Hi your a legend, thanks for the above and the detail.

I thought I should post an update to what I did and a thanks to you.

I live in Perth so went to Coventrys in Ossie Pk to check out the p/n's and to what was available and at what cost.

Rob a Ford freak and Matt were most helpful.

I brought the following parts.

BA9A624A Top Snorkel $33.70 inc

BAF9C676B Bottom Snorkel $66.08 inc

Tip: it's the same as the.......

BA2T9C676A Typhoon FPV one but not the $99.14 inc price tag!!

33-2852 K&N (A1475) Filter $85.34 inc

Total $185.12 inc

I marked out the box but made a boo, in that I thought the 20mm measurement was from the edge of the rhs looking at it, but found out by, measuring 120mm from the 7mm index, it lined up with a reinforcing web under the top face, not the side face so all's well.

Like you I used a Dremel, one cut around and it fitted like a brought one. Smoothed it up with the sanding disk, bingo.

Re the corners: Yes I used a 3/8 drill bit to draw the corner profile, but I could of gone bigger.

Fitting: Tip spray silicon spary around the lower snorkel and feed iit under the headlight and over the aircon pipe, it makes all the difference, just slides in real easy.

Fit the box back and wow now you have full access to the lower bolt.

After its secure, grab the lower snorkel and pull it back into the hole and check inside and out that it fits.

I've attached a couple of picks to a mod I made to the upper snorkel.

I took a witness of where the hood seal comes into contact with it and cut the top part of the snorkel out that protrudes into the cavity and does nothing.

Since I did this I had a re think and would suggest that it may be better to make the side cuts [about 20mm] in then use hot water or a heat gun or hair dryer to bend up the plastic top so it helps deflect the air the air down into the opening.

Results: I picked up a new XR6 this week, one of the special packs with the 18x8's and ZF 6 speed.

Prior to this, the trip meter reported 18.5L/100kms.........it now says 15.4!!!

Thanks Kaine.

I owe you a beer.

Next up:

Tridon 82C Thermostat

Power Pulley

Pacemaker Headers

Hi-Flow Cat

2 1/2" system. Nice examples on You Tube

Capa Flash Tune.

Any tips on the above like were to score the bits cheap much appreciated.

Rugby.

[MercuryXr6Turbo]

Kaine,

Just completed the lower intake install as per your instructions, thanks to you it was a quick and easy job! Thanks for your efforts to help all of us out!

Cheers

Richard

[Ford powa]

Thanks Kaine,

Did that f6 CAI setup yesterday and sorta notice a difference, made it alot easier with pics and measurements.

cheers Tommo.

[xr6t_menace]

question Rugby1au,

y did u cut the top snorkel? sorry if I missed it in the description you gave,

p.s thansk for the part numbers and the heads up on xr8 and fpv differences in price

[Gonga]

I just did this today (the second intake) to my BF mkII XR6T. Thanks for keeping this info on the forums, It's really usefull stuff. It fitted beautiful, I reckon I can hear the turbo whine more now and I also now have dremel in the toolkit. Thanks. Kaine I reckon your a legend.

[xr6t_menace]

Did this on the sunday gt my lowersnorkel from coventries cost me $80 up front went home dremeled it all out and walah magic notice the difference a bit deffinatly int he noise department as I fitted the k&n at the same time

great write up +1 for u sir.

reece,

[hawlass]

Is it just me or does the link for measurements in post 29 just lead back to home page? After these dimensions myself. Mods, help please??

[Dillz]

Yeah just a broken link, happens sometimes due to the upgrade. I'm sure it will be around here somewhere.