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Typhoon Cai On A "t"


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  • Benzene
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  • Member For: 20y 7m 18d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Out West
Hi cikas, not the phoon snorkel but hope this might help

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Did you just cut the xr8 one and add that piece of rubber??

If so where or what is that rubber from??

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  • Complete Bastard
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  • Member For: 21y 1m 17d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Sydney
Hi cikas, not the phoon snorkel but hope this might help

Did you just cut the xr8 one and add that piece of rubber??

If so where or what is that rubber from??

That picture shows the XR8 snorkel cut off with a plumbquik added. It fits tightly over the end of the XR8 snorkel (I used a couple of self tapping screws to hold it in place but as they are both thick rubber bits, I wouldn't be surprised if they just stayed there themselves).

You can get a plumbquik from any Bunnings or large hardware store for about $19. They are designed to fit on to 100 mm pvc sewer pipe, are about 100mm long and about 100 mm dia.

When you cut the hole for it in the airbox, just make it a tight fit and it will stay in place very well. You don't need anything to secure it to the airbox. Originally the plumbquik is round but after you have forced it over the XR8 snorkel, it becomes oval shaped. I just accepted the shape it had adopted and cut the hole to suit.

And I agree with the previous comments, it would be a b@stard to try to put the third bolt back in however, the snorkel at the front pretty well keeps the airbox in place so it is totally unnecessary.

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  • Member
  • Member For: 20y 9m 4d
  • Location: Sydney
You can get a plumbquik from any Bunnings or large hardware store for about $19.  They are designed to fit on to 100 mm pvc sewer pipe, are about 100mm long and about 100 mm dia.

Bunnings at Blacktown and Minchinbury didnt have the Plumbquick. I had to get mine from Reece. But the XR8 snork works well. I found the car felt a bit better down low.

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  • Member
  • Member For: 20y 6d
well, that wasnt so hard.

I measured out a template out of paper and then checked it a few times before I started cutting. The hole should be 120mm x 58mm, which takes into account the lip of the snorkel. Be sure to leave a bit of room around the corners as the snorkel lip is not totally square and is fairly small around the edges. trial and error, the snorkel will look kinda warped inside if its not sitting flush.

After about 5mins of fiddling, I went with aiboart's advise and left the 3rd bolt out, it holds pretty well with the standard pipe and snorkel.

cikas, If you havent started yours yet, heres the measurements I used which might make your job a little bit easier.

post-1503-1114835357_thumb.jpg

post-1503-1114835708_thumb.jpgpost-1503-1114835736_thumb.jpgpost-1503-1114835792_thumb.jpgpost-1503-1114835765_thumb.jpg

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

That's very impressive Kaine, this looks like a factory Typhoon box to me.

Don't worry about the third bolt.

As you know the snorkel and box lock into a pretty rigid assembly once mated, it is a good design, and, those complex bends in the snorkel also act to locate and retain the whole assembly without the aid of the third bolt.

ASAIK the Typhoon box does not use the third bolt.

So, if you first build your Kaine snorkel box assembly, without the third bold the job reduces to;

Mate your Kaine box and snorkel assembly outside the car.

Then lower the assembly into the car vertically, that is, snorkel straight down and box straight up. You rotate and feed the Kaine snorkel and box assembly into the final fixing position as you lower the assembly. (easy)

Then Locate and fit 1st CAI flange. (easy)

Fit two bolts. (easy)

Job Complete. (Estimated time to fit, < 5minutes)

Regards,

aa

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  • Team HgAg
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  • Member For: 20y 2m 16d
  • Location: Rockingham W.A

Well all done guys :msm:

Took the car to my mates to use his tools... So easy once I had the right tools.

In the end it only took about 20-30 minutes from opening the bonnet and having a few stub-wannas in between and lowering the bonnet.

Followed instructions from the guys and all good. I was able to put that 3rd bolt in as well.. I just used the whole from the airbox to tighten the bolt..

Straight away took the T out on the street.. Was lucky not much traffic and straight away you can hear better induction on it.. And the reevs goin abit highier. Definatley quicker off the start...

After all that worry I feel like I can strip an engine now .. :msm:

Thanxs to all the guys who gave me there tips on the mod... All I want to do now is mod something else.. Better wait for the $$$ to come in first then who knows what to do next :spoton:

cheers cikas

:msm:

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  • Member
  • Member For: 20y 7m 25d
  • Location: Mildura
Ok Guys ..

Just spent most of the night fiddiling with my T ..

And man.. I think its gonna be to much of a pain doing this mod. Especialy that dam bolt at the bottom of the airbox..I can barley get it off now . Cant imagine with a snorkel there.

So I think im gonna pass on this mod.. Save my $50 and get some Stub Wanna's for the weekend instead

cikas

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

cikas,

Should only take 5 minutes to remove airbox

If you undo the clips and lift the top half of the airbox out of the way you can reach the bottom bolt quite easily with a 8mm socket and extention. :spoton: nothing hard about that.

macka

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