Stereo Gurus Needed

[NighEve]

I finally got off my arse on the weekend and installed my stereo gear in the ute. As strange as it was initially, it wasn't too hard removing all the interior and the console etc (but that is another story!).

I'm using all top quality wires, fuses etc, insulated and run as best as I could, everything soilder etc (did not spare any effor to do this). I wanted to stay with the standard headunit (at least for now - might change my mind sooner than later if I can't solve this problem). I am no car audio expert, but I have installed my fair share of systems and know the basics. I have never had a engine noise/interference problem before because I have always taken the care as described above. BUT now I have this horrible interference - sounds like another turbo through the speakers LOL - and I am afraid that despite my efforts to test different ways of getting rid of it I cannot so far. I have never had to run a capacitor before but I am thinking this is my only choice??? I was wondering if anyone has been through this process and what they did to resolve it?

For your information, the system in it's "first phase" cofiguration is as follows:

Factory ICC source, Alpine powered balanced line level convertor, Audiobahn AEQ6 6 Band EQ 8V preamp, JL W310D4 sub and JL 250/1 monoblock amp, Lanzar DX6.1 components and Alpine MVR420T 2 channel amp. Apart from the engine noise you hear at low level volume or quiet parts in songs, the system is showing particularly good potential with some more tuning etc. I had this gear in another car beforehand apart from the AEQ6 - WOW does this thing boost your signal!!!! I have had to turn down the gain on the Alpine amp to about 30 per cent because it is hurting the Lanzars which are rated a genuine 130WRMS and my ears!!! (amp is rated at 110WRMSx2@14.4V - seems to LOVE the 8V signal).

Any ideas welcome

Joel.

[wados]

got the same problem and mine was installed by a so called expert and they say it is normal cause of the inline converter but I just think they where sh*t at there job.

[NighEve]

wados - without commenting on the quality of some audio installations, I know that everything I did was done properly (I mean I spent the whole weekend with the entire interior and dash apart running wires etc).

My final conclusion after testing different sources - including another headunit that was laying around - was that the factory source and wiring route is just so terrible to begin with that when you start amplifing the signal it becomes all that more noticeable (if you have any speakers running off the factory unit power still put your ears right up the speaker at low volume and you can hear the sh*t in it).

I had never run line level convertors before and now I know why I should have kept it that way (even though I bought the so-called best ones on the market!). I am thinking a decent 1/2 or 1 farad cap is needed, but Ihave never had to do this before and want some advice on them (including best installation).

Joel.

[wados]

im like you mate have done a few installs in my time but I just didnt want to touch my brand new car so I got some one to install it, but hey it turned out crap and I got my money back on my install.

As for the crap HU and wiring that doesnt suprise me, but I can only really hear mine when either no music is playing or when th air con is on it gets louder

[NighEve]

Doing some "research" now to try and find a solution... Seems from the many hits I got with "line level convertor and engine noise" this is more common than I would have ever thought (WHY DIDN'T I JUST BUY ANOTHER HEADUNIT!!!!)

Joel.

[wados]

ive got a spare headunit I mightaswell just use that if the inline converter is the problem

[NighEve]

Well Wados - I can't say that on your system without having seen it. I would be surprised if the installer didn't take the usal care to seperate signal and power and ground well?

I think I will by one of those cheap shanky 20 dollar engine noise supressors first to see how much noice if any it takes out and then look at decent quality caps. Sounds like most of the people so far who have had this problem have either put up or still don't know what they are doing :(

Joel.

[wados]

ahh well I will wait and see, if anyone has a solution

[xrdreaming]

Guys I installed mine in my ute and it is fine with no background whine, exept in the audio aux which is normal for these BA Falcons but the cd and radio are fine.

My amps are behind my passengers seat with two subs across the back, splits in the front and cadence speakers in the rear.

I have used stinger line level convertors and my earth comes from the seat mounting bolt under the passengers seat. Direct power off the battery and remote power from the fuse box to an acc power fuse.

I have not driven my rear speakers through the amps though, only the front splits and the subs, Maybe try that earth point or disconnect your rear speakers and see if that makes a difference?

Just trying to throw up ideas to help out.

[NighEve]

Thanks for your input Xrdreaming

I have also found remote power and power for the line convertor (Alpine one needs to be powered from the Acc power), I have not run the earth to the seat mounts (I had originally got some connectors for this and then ended up running 8ga from both amps back to the ve- of the battery (because I have always tried to do this to avoid exactly the problem I am facing now). The only two things I can see that are different (logistics wise) in our systems are the powered versus non-powered line level convertors and the earth position (I am also not sure how you seperated and ran your wires?). I am now wondering if my earths back to the battery is a culprit in disguise?

hrmmmmm. Thanks Xrdreaming

Joel.