Traction Control Dis-engaging

[sixfan]

Although I agree in-part with the sentiments of your posts Mick, traction control is not an ADR requirement like airbags and at least you have a warning light on your dash to tell you that something is not right.

Yes I would be annoyed but I think the point that sixfan is getting at is that you cannot expect to tamper with the most crucial part of the vehicle (I.e. Edit) and assume that all of the factory installed options will be OK.  This is where buyer beware does come in to it; for comparisons sake you cannot expect to overclock a CPU and assume that everything else will still work as it was designed.

Even in the litigious society that we live in I doubt that there would be a risk of a successful case against SCT – as you would have to be driving “without due care” in the eyes of the law for this glitch to surface in any case.

Trent.

wot he said.

[Cobra]

The fix is being tested now.

If you bought your Flasher from CAPA then return it to them for the upgrade

If you bought it from a dealer they will be able to install the new code

I dont believe there would be a charge for this

Will let you know when the dealers have the latest database with the TC revisions in place.

[ZAP]

Great news ST, thanks for letting everyone know.

Now where did I put my VISA card

[C.S.I]

Great news ST.

Let us know the minute she's distributed to the dealers

[C.S.I]

My previuos T with the unichip would spin quite easily with traction control on to me no big deal

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

So 6ickness, does it still spin now with the 'boggy' tune

[RAPHOON]

Brisbane EDIT owners.

I've checked with Power Torque Engines and they have the TC fix updated tunes available.

Just give them a call to arrange a flash!!

[Guest Ian Steele]

well guys, I've enjoyed the argument of whether ETC is needed or not, in my case it is now not as the Turbo shot through on the 10PSI setting, do you think Ford will see a log file on the ECU if I try to get it fixed under warranty?

[cdm]

well guys, I've enjoyed the argument of whether ETC is needed or not, in my case it is now not as the Turbo shot through on the 10PSI setting, do you think Ford will see a log file on the ECU if I try to get it fixed under warranty?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Maybe not, but I hope your forum alias isn't your real name.:D

[mickq]

well guys, I've enjoyed the argument of whether ETC is needed or not, in my case it is now not as the Turbo shot through on the 10PSI setting, do you think Ford will see a log file on the ECU if I try to get it fixed under warranty?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Quite possibly.

The info below is informational only. Completely up to you if you read it or follow it. Risks are attached!

One thing I would consider if I were in your shoes is to undo the big pipe coming out of the front of the turbo (it then reaches up on top of the engine - this is where the compressed air is pumped out of the turbo and up to the engine.)

Once you undo that, the car should drive - the difference being it wont have the turbo to boost power. You will effectively be driving a rough naturally aspirated XR6.

I have done this for several hundred kms when it blew off in the middle of nowhere and I had nothing to put it back on again. Put the pipe in the boot and drove home. (My parents couldnt believe that I emerged from under the bonnet with something so big, stuck it in the boot, and said "lets go"!).

When you first start the car, have the bonnet raised. Be ready to kill it if there is any problem or evil noise. An example might be terrible noise from the turbo or engine (grating or similar) indicating you nuked the innards of the turbo or something got sucked into the engine. If the turbo/engine doesnt make such noise, you will hear and see the turbine blades spooling up from the front of the turbo. Dont put your hands anywhere down there either!

Hopefully the engine will idle, albeit a little weirdly as the system tried to cope with no turbo and different intake pressures.

The car will occasionally run rough and idle weirdly, but the 2nd time I took that pipe off the car ran just fine, about 95% normal. Power was still good but not as good as normal.

If all seems ok, drive it around a bit. Turn the car off and restart it a few times over that period. Note that while you are doign this the engine is breathing in unfiltered air. Best done when the roads are wet as there is little crap in the air. But normal dry not dusty days are ok short term. (You probably only need to drive 20 mins).

The reason I wrote all that? By using the car, you will re-write many of the registers in the ECU, getting rid of the current values. This may not necessarily apply to peak turbo boost (depends how they organise their memory - record highest reading in last x amount of time, or highest reading since last reset at service depot). But it will maximise your chances.

Again, note that if you get any hard mechanical noises (not to be confused with the car not idling properly, and the increased suction noise from an open air intake) then stop everything and get the car towed.

[Guest Ian Steele]

it's a tow job, no oil pressure lots of noises