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Unichip Xr6 Turbo Upgrades


CnC

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the figures on the right indicate "tractive force at the wheels" which is proportional to the final torque figures ....

the XRT I was watching last night was an auto and squeeked the wheels big time from 1st to 2nd ...

the standard exhaust did not sound standard ... it had about 200rwkw (@80ramp) ... the start of something serious :thumbsup:

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the figures on the right indicate "tractive force at the wheels" which is proportional to the final torque figures ....

So, how do you fuigure out what that final figure is (is what I'm asking). Because the peak of the Torque line is just above 7500, and I'm sure that the car wasn't developing 7500Nm of torque!?! Is there some calculation you have to do to convert that 7500 to a real (and final?) torque figure?

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the figures on the right are "N' (force) and not "Nm" (torque)

... the torque curve on the dyno sheets is only representative and is used to compare before and after modifications ...

there is a formula which escapes my memory, but you can calculate torque from the by using the kw (power) figure and the rpm at that power spot ... :thumbsup:

Mercurial ... I'll return to this space and get the formula .. later tonight :thumbsup:

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you know how ppl carry on about how weak the manual T-5 is, well this should be a good test as to how good the auto and manual are. My guess is with this sort about power the auto will give up way before the manual will....you see you can still drive a stuffed manual, it just grates an is hard to get into gear, where are the autos clutch packs just slip and won't get the power down also the auto would cost a sh*te load more to rebuild then the manual, ALSO I'm pretty sure there would heaps more hot up bits for the T-5 then the BTR auto.

Dave.

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I was at Chip Torque yesterday and having a chat to Lachlan who subsequently took me for a drive in their mule. He estimated it was putting out around 45kws more at the wheels than standard - very little in the way of mods albeit a 6 speed gearbox.

What do I say?? Very, very impressive. It is a WHOLE lot quicker than stock. I am booking my ute in almost immediately!!!!!!!!!

BTW, for the manual guys, cutting out the very large centre muffler and replacing it with two pieces of straight through pipe sounds excellent. Buggered if it makes any more power but it sounds pretty damn good! One more mod I have done is replace the standard air box with a unifilter rampod and shielded it from the engine bay. You don't need/want an external venting BOV after this mod, you want to hear the thing vent!! and suck for that matter!

Two very cheap yet very satisfying mods.

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the figures on the right are "N' (force) and not "Nm" (torque)

... the torque curve on the dyno sheets is only representative and is used to compare before and after modifications ...

there is a formula which escapes my memory, but you can calculate torque from the by using the kw (power) figure and the rpm at that power spot ... <_<

Mercurial ... I'll return to this space and get the formula .. later tonight <_<

a long time later ...

usefull reading

the guy is a bike freak ... he explains it well

cheers <_<

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I think I've done this right. :thumbsup:

Steve's web page says Kilowatts = (Torque X RPM)/9549

So, transposed, Torque=(KilowattsX9549) / RPM :idea:

Therefore, roughly reading off APS' dyno graph, Torque = (312 X 9549) / 4750

which equals 627Nm of torque (Roughly) :geek:

F%^#K! :D :D

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Sounds fantastic, and no doubt there's a fair bit of potential in all this. However, for all those not fortunate enough to own their own professional workshop, I think we need to tread a little carefully here. 330+kw and 500+Nm of torque represents a massive amount of internal stress on the engine. I'm no automotive engineer, but obvious weak points may be the rings, pistons, conrods, main bearings, crank, tailshaft, and diff.

The durability of even just the stock engine really hasn't been tested by average owners yet, so for all we know there may be issues with the stock engine after 80,000kms (although I'd hope not!!!).

I realise there are many variables affecting engine reliability, but I think lots of folks out there should just err a little on the side of caution until some real durability issues are sorted. Then again, if you're only going to keep the car for 2 years, then GO CRAZY!!!!!!

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