Circuit Racing

[xr6_prod]

For those interested in the specifications of the car (No other mods allowed).

2003 BA Mark 1 XR6 Turbo

MoTeC M800 ecu

Bilstien tripple adjustable shock absorbers (fast bump,  slow bump,  rebound)

We are controlled to only run .6 bar of boost

Spring rates to suit individual race tracks

Yokohama Road Legal control tyre

Minimum weight 1735kg

For those of you wondering the brakes are 100% base model standard  (apart from pad material),  this means the brakes are required to do 18 laps of Wakefield Park in a 1 minute 10 sec lap time.  Very character building.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

what sort of rear wheel power is it making and what sort of pads do you use??

good luck and I look forward to seeing the results...

Dave.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Dave,

The question about horsepower is a difficult one to answer, firstly most racers will not give you a true and honest answer. Secondly and more importantly (and I hope I dont offend anybody) I see people on the forum quote rear wheel horsepower or Kw (RWKW) as if it actually means something. There is an enormus variation between dyno's of the same make, let alone different dyno's of different makes; furthermore if you dyno a car hot or cold makes a huge difference; thirdly the weather conditions on different days effects reading dramatically; forthly there are tricks dyno operators can use to inflate figures. I firmly beleive that a quoted RWKW number actually tells very little about the actual worth of an engine in terms of race or street ability.

What a dyno can tell you is the effective gain of a modification, as long as the testing method is consistent and the runs are not too far apart. So the best way of answering the question is we see around a 40 odd RWKW gain over standard using the same testing method.

This number still tells you nothing about torque, lag or throttle response which are often more important criteria for race and road engines.

Successful race tuners usually evaluate gains, and the worth of an engine, by the increase in area under the torque curve and race track performance (in either curcuit racing or quarter mile) - rather than any peak number.

The brake pads we use are SBS (Scandanavian Braking Systems). We have tried Ferodo DS3000 and DS3000 Endurance, Carbon Metalic pads as well as some other no names. The SBS have been the best to date. They come in 3 compunds Heavy Duty Ceramic (not recommended), Carbon Ceramic (CC's) and Dual Carbon (DC's). The DC's have excellent coefficient of friction (bite) that rises slightly with heat. (I.e. works better when they get hot - this is a good thing). The SBS DC's are able to withstand the 800+ deg heat with satisfactory wear rates. We use the DC's exclusively in the front and mostly use the DC's in the rear however we have also successfully run the CC's in the rear. The CC's are the best choice for road duties with light race duties.

These brake pads are available from Ric Shaw Performance in Sydney - Five Dock.

The Ferodo Pads and Carbon Metalic are avaliable from Competition Friction in Canberra.

I have also heard good things about Galfa pads - however I am yet to try.

Also whist I am in the mood to give away free info - for any performance application (or even just road) you must change the brake lines to braided - the standard ones are just plain crap with way too much flex. The difference is very noticable. Brake fluid choice is also crucial.

[C.S.I]

Thanks for all the information xr6_prod.

Good

[ZAP]

Thanks XRProd,

Its great to see you flying the T flag.

Do all the cars have to be stock...I.e No Options ?

Do you have to run all the interiors, like power windows, spare tyres ?

What was the rough setup cost to go racing, above the cost of the car ?

Thanks for all the info, I will come to your next NSW meeting and say g'day

[tab]

Good luck Nick; shame about the brakes; the circuit is better suited for the smaller cars though.

Brian

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Brakes !!!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Faaark - them there brakes look pretty bloody warm.

Somehow I don't think the standard rotors would be up to the job.

Trent.

[xr6_prod]

Thanks XRProd,

Its great to see you flying the T flag.

Do all the cars have to be stock...I.e No Options ?

Do you have to run all the interiors, like power windows, spare tyres ?

What was the rough setup cost to go racing, above the cost of the car ?

Thanks for all the info, I will come to your next NSW meeting and say g'day

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The cars must be the base model in the range - absolutly no options.

Full interior, with operational power windows, the spare tyre and jack can be removed.

The cost - expensive ! If you have help, know where to go and do a significant amount of work yourself - you can turn a road car into a race car for around $30K. If you need to pay somebody and don't get much help the actual real cost is more likely to be in the vacinity of $50K or more. This is of course to build a competitive car, non competitive cars can be built cheaper.

The big ticket items - ECU - Motec including installation and dynoing - you would expect to pay $10K. We use tripple adjustable Bilsteins - specially made for the car in Europe with extensive shock dynoing and several recalibrations - these could well run over the $10K mark. A FAI homologated roll cage $3K to $5K. You then need to remember the small stuff that adds up quick, seats, seat mounts, harness, bonnet pins, tow hooks, stearing wheel, kill switch, braided brake lines, air bag removal, window nets, foam filled fuel tank, fire extinguisher, a selection of springs, spare wheels, air conditioning removal, the list goes on and on.

[geea]

Thanks for the great info xr6_prod. I have just got a set of the DBA rotors so its good to hear they work well. I look forward to watching when you head to Phillip Island.

Geea.

[slikxr6t]

Thanks for the great info xr6_prod! Best of luck for the remainder of the season. I've been following the Procar series for a few years and I hope the new PCAA is a huge success and look forward to catching you at the Phillip Island round. Keep flying the mighty XR6T flag!

[Turbo6man]

Just one thing Nick mentioned to me on Sat that he hasn't posted here yet. I'm sure it's no secret so I don't expect he'll mind my posting it - he probably meant to himself but with all the other info he has probably just overlooked it.

The gearbox is the standard T5 - yep a T5, AND the car has the standard clutch. The only mod to the T5 is the use of Redline synthetic oil. It has been in the car for two seasons if I remember correctly. Pick me up on this if I've got it wrong Nick.

I think this puts to rest a lot of the conjecture about the strength of the T5 eh? AND makes me wonder just why Ford have gone to all the trouble of an APRacing twin plate in the Typhoon, which I would hazard a guess is not putting out as much torque as Nick's motor.

[xr6_prod]

Just one thing Nick mentioned to me on Sat that he hasn't posted here yet. I'm sure it's no secret so I don't expect he'll mind my posting it - he probably meant to himself but with all the other info he has probably just overlooked it.

The gearbox is the standard T5 - yep a T5, AND the car has the standard clutch. The only mod to the T5 is the use of Redline synthetic oil. It has been in the car for two seasons if I remember correctly. Pick me up on this if I've got it wrong Nick.

I think this puts to rest a lot of the conjecture about the strength of the T5 eh? AND makes me wonder just why Ford have gone to all the trouble of an APRacing twin plate in the Typhoon, which I would hazard a guess is not putting out as much torque as Nick's motor.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

You have all of that spot on Turbo6man. Not a moments trouble from the gearbox or clutch with a full seasons racing !!!

[ZAP]

Nick,

Is it a factory stock box, or has it been "rebuilt" ?

How long does the clutch last ?

Also, how bad is the driveline shunt ?