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Blue Window Switches


XR6TK1W1

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  • Site protagonist
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  • Member For: 21y 9m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: At the lights, waiting for you.

The first LED to fail was top left, I took it off and reattached it but it still wasnt working.

Then today it was working but bottom right wasnt working, then it was top right and then it was both right hand side ones.

all the LED's have seperate conections with the bottom 2 sharing a conection that doesnt involve the new pin.

The new pin is only soldiered on top of the board and not underneath, but after they were initially installed they all worked great for 3-4 days.

I hope this helps someone come up with a solution for me I'd really appreciate any advice. :)

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  • Site protagonist
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  • Member For: 21y 9m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: At the lights, waiting for you.

Standard sound with no light sockets in footwells.

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  • Member For: 21y 11m 18d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Darwin NT

I'll go with Cam's thoughts for now, whip it out and double check your connections, you may find a switch lever has moved a led or two and cracked a joint, if you or a mate has a digital camera take a pic while you are there.

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  • Member For: 21y 11m 8d
  • Location: Wellington NZ

One thing to watch for with the new pins is that they can ride over the female side of the plug and just rest on top. Makes the whole thing go on and off intermitantly. But since only a few are going off and on and that fact they are differant ones suggest to me that its not the new pin. As Cam says resoldier the LED's with new freash self fluxing soldier. Have a look at NT's job for the non premium way and see how he bends the legs of the LED's to have them clear etc. Its a good tidy job and if you get it close to that it should be no prob. One thing you can do is open the switch remove the contacts and plug it in and wiggle individual LED's gentally. This will show up any faulty joints. Ps sometimes when LEDs are over heated they can work until they get warm and then fail, not often but it can happen. A way of not cooking the diode is to heat the soldier to the board and then place the leg into it until you see the leg change colour then remove the heat (it gets a little lighter). Its a poor mans way of doing it but a safe way. Only works with fresh soldier though as old soldier looses its flux as the iron burns it off.

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Guest EvoToy
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Stopped by the shell last night and purchased the light bulbs for the footwell lights... still cant believe ford were so intent on seperating the fairmont from the falcon....

Anyway aside from the mods mentioned in this thread is there an easier way to get illuminated window controls? I.e. taking a Fairmont for a test drive and swapping the switches over? :thumbsup: or perhaps taking a more honest approach and buying the illuminated ones from ford? money is no object... just cant be naffed in doing it myself....

Nick. :thumbsup:

post-3-1054016078.jpg

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  • Member For: 22y 1m 3d
  • Location: Brisbane

I am happy to do the conversion for members of this forum with the fairmont switches using SMD LEDs.

The problem is getting the switches to me for the conversion....

If people can find a way to get them to me I will do it for them.

(The best I can think of for people not in Brisbane is to overnight them to me in an expres parcel post bag, I will do them when they arrive and send them back that day... this means being without windows for 2 days ...)

The Blue SMD LEDs would cost $60 so including postage I think it could be done (as XR6K1W1 said) for less then the cost of one switch... anyway the offer is there...

I have posted a photo (same photo as before) to illustrate what I am offering.

post-3-1054031519.jpg

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  • Member For: 22y 1m 3d
  • Location: Brisbane

Does anybody know if the Ute switches are different to the Fairmont switches??

Does the ute wairing harness have the extra wire for the lighting??

Does any of this change with the prestige sound option??

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