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Blue Window Switches


XR6TK1W1

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  • Member For: 21y 8m 19d
  • Location: Wellington NZ

I didn't test to ground first off as it doesn't go to ground via the usual way. It is controlled by the Bem - ve and feed +ve from the window supply. Plus doesn't 7 volts sound a little strange? Remeber a multimeter will pick up bullsh*t voltage and only really musures potential differances. Try removing all single swiches and testing from the drivers switch to make sure of this. This is the way I did mine and it works. But as you have noticed NT did his the other way but hasn't got premium sound. I hope I am right and not leading you up the garden path. PS dont let the PC board get so hot. I noticed in your pic that there was alot of black. This heat could cause probs when doing the drivers switch and there are other componants to worrie about I/E capacitors etc. Hope this helps

Dave.

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  • Member For: 21y 10m 14d
  • Location: Brisbane

So - just to get this straight - if I simply reverse the polarity of the LEDs that will give me what you have working?

Re blackening PCB - this was the first one I did and I screwed around with it a bit, other two were much better. Of course if I now have to remove and reverse the LEDs that will make them a little less pretty!

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  • Member For: 21y 9m
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Darwin NT

Yeah that should be right as K1W1 says, but check the voltage within the switch again you may want go back to the original resistors you started with. (I like the SMD but hard to get here as well)

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  • Member For: 21y 8m 19d
  • Location: Wellington NZ

Seems weird but yes. All my LED's as you can see from my pics are cathode to the new pin. And yes it is the Blue with red stripe wire. Just pull the singles out as I said and try the polarity at the drivers door. Seems weird that it even worked the other way but remember the cars in NZ are a differant spec to the Aussie ones. I hoping this won't be the case. Being the wrong way could also be why they only work part time. But to save re soldering try the drivers door first in case im wrong.

Dave.

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  • Member For: 21y 8m 19d
  • Location: Wellington NZ

Oh Cam I should have also added test for polarity like NT said within the switch. I/E test from the exsisting pin in the switch to your new pin, not to ground. If you do this with a single switch at the plug, no switch attached you should get an accurate result. Ps I'm sure you know this but just in case, follow the PC board tracks from the bottom LED. You will see on the bottom left it gets its feed from the power window via the contact. Just test from the pin that connects there to your new pin at the plug. This should clear up any polarity issues.

Dave.

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Guest StaggerLee
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I would love to get these blue light switches but don't have a soldering iron and haven't used one since high school.

Does anyone know if Ford will be able to do it at my next service?

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  • Member For: 21y 10m 14d
  • Location: Brisbane

Thanks for the help everyone - I have reversed the LEDs on the single switches and they all work now.

All I have left to do now is the drivers switch.

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  • Member For: 21y 10m 14d
  • Location: Brisbane
I would love to get these blue light switches but don't have a soldering iron and haven't used one since high school.

Does anyone know if Ford will be able to do it at my next service?

Ford would be able to fit the Fairmont switches to your car (at a price).

I dont know whether the fairmont switches are illuminated blue though...

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