Blue Window Switches

[XR6TK1W1]

Arrh the old backfeed prob. Short answer is no. I never really bothered as they do go out when the feed to the power windows is cut by the BEM after the window function times out. I had a look at the wiring diagrams and it appears on the Fairmont they have a diode in a sub circuit but I never got around to finding where that was meant to be exactly.

Sorry for being no help whatsoever.

Dave

[scott52]

can anyone tell me where I can pick up the neg. blue/red dash light feed from behind the dash or fusebox. I've got a boost gauge with a blue LED backlight and want to have the dimming capability linked in with the rest of the system.

geez, I've got more blue LED's than I can poke a stick at!

[XR6TK1W1]

Try and see if there is a wire to where the Cigar Lighter would be if it was installed ( the light for it I mean ). I'm not sure if the wiring is there but if it is it would be a close and easy place to hook in to. Trying to find out what wire is what at the junction/fuse board is a real nightmare.

Dave

[Guest 56Mainline]

I’d like to express my thanks to the following persons:

XR6TK1W1

NT TURBO

CAM

POTAI

The info you guys have provided thru these pages has been terrific.

With no prior soldering experience (though plenty of welding, not as if that really helps!) I completed the blue window switches using SMD blue LEDs (ex- Jayco Part No ZD2020) and 390 ohm standard resistors, and using the instructions & info in the posts that you provided.

It all worked 1st go! Thank you very much!

Now, several posts suggested that the LED equipped switches would operate when the doors were unlocked using the key pad, or operated due to the fog light switch being on, or don’t operate when the brightest dash dim level was selected.

I don’t experience any of those problems/enhancements! I’ve got Premium Sound by the way...

The switches only light-up when either the parkers or low/high beam is switched on, whether the key is in the ignition or not, regardless of key position when it is in the ignition. Also the fog light switch position has no effect whatsoever. The switches don’t light-up with the interior light, nor with operation of any of the windows on first unlocking the car (prior to inserting the key to the ignition or otherwise). The rear window switches lighting do still extinguish when the drivers door cut-off switch is activated.

Why my switch lighting operation is different to everyone else’s may be because I have wired in a relay so that my fog lights only operate with BOTH the dash switch on AND the high beam on (I did this because I have replaced one broken foggie with a driving light).

Perhaps this additional wiring circuit is acting a the missing Fairmont “diode” circuit that XR6TK1W1 has mentioned and cites as C-395 in the lighting wiring diagram that he posted earlier.

Anyways, thanks for the excellent info and your pioneering work!

Marc…

[Guest 56Mainline]

I have a question re the drivers door rear window cut-off switch lighting. I see that NT TURBO has fitted a red 3mm LED (& probably so have others), and I also wish to do the same.

My question is how was it wired into the circuit board?

At present I’m using a 390 ohm standard resistor surface mounted and 2x SMD LED’s for each window switch, which provides a similar lighting brightness for each switch (same current flow in each circuit).

Now, I could simply add to one of the window switch circuits an additional red LED in series and use a different resistor value, thereby attempting to maintain a similar current flow. Is this what others have done? Were you able to maintain a similar brightness level to the unaltered LED circuits?

Or is it ‘better’ to create a new circuit dedicated to the cut-off switch with just a red LED & resistor? This would be a parallel circuit (just like all the other window switch lighting circuits which are parallel to each other, with each circuit comprising of 2 LED’s and one resistor). Any suggestions on how best to wire in just such a circuit to the driver’s door PCB?

TIA, Marc…

[Guest HocuSChrisT]

Cam,

Just read the message from Hammer007.

Question, are you offering to do this ?

I'm brisbane based and would gladly pay for the service.

Look forward to your response.

Macktheknife.

I also would glady pay for someone to do this to my car. If you are in Brisbane or North Queensland, your assistance would be very greatly appreciated.

[Cam]

Cam,

Just read the message from Hammer007.

Question, are you offering to do this ?

I'm brisbane based and would gladly pay for the service.

Look forward to your response.

Macktheknife.

I also would glady pay for someone to do this to my car. If you are in Brisbane or North Queensland, your assistance would be very greatly appreciated.

I'm still happy to help out - PM me if you are interested.

(I'm in Brisbane)

[badabing]

I've just had a go at one of my rear switches (N/A XR6 with premium sound). I used the Jaycar (ZD2020) SMD blue leds and salvaged a surface mount resistor from an old PC video card. I fitted two leds and a 390 ohm resistor, looks great!

Mine will only come on when I have the lights on, have I done it correctly? I thought someone said earlier in the thread they should be on whenever the windows were active? Does anyone know how they work in the Ghia and could someone tell me what I'd need to do to get them working whenever the windows are active please.

Main problem I had was making the extra pin, soldering part was delicate but easy enough. Any hints on making and getting the drivers side pin into position would be appreciated.

Thanks :hiwelcome:

[aaronmihe]

Out of curiousity is there a simlar pin style used int eh Ford wiring to any of the 'no-brand' connectors available Jaycar?

Spending say $5 to get neat ready made pins may be a very nice and easy solution.

Oh is it 16 LEDs?

Aaron

[badabing]

I couldn't find anything at Jaycar that came close, might try DSE.

There are solder pads for two leds per window button so 14 leds in total.

One more led is required if you want to do the rear window cut off button but there is no solder pad for this so you would have to jerry something up.