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Blue Window Switches


XR6TK1W1

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Guest potai
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Cam,

You should get some CRC Contact Cleaner, spray an old tooth brush and scrub that printed circuit board to remove that solder flux residue. Not only will it look more "professional" it will stop any cross tracking should the flux be dirty (have any solder contaminants in it). The danger of posting good quality digital photo's....

Cheers

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Guest ROCKET
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greetings all

I have removed the window switch on the ute & the wiring to the plug is as follows

note the only power at the switch is positive 12 volts on the grey wire with the yellow trace all others are earth's hope this is of some help

regards

rod

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  • Member For: 21y 11m 20d
  • Location: Brisbane

Rockey

How many wires do you have going to the switch, and if more then 6 what positions are they in ?

(if only 6 - they are 4 for the motors, +ve and Gnd - no wire for illumination - you could stil do somehting just a little trickier)

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  • Member For: 21y 8m 12d
  • Location: Brisbane

I have also checked my utes switches. The passenger side is no problem as the blue/red feed is present, but on the drivers side it only has the 6 wires with Yellow/Black, Yellow, Red/Black, Red, Black, Grey/Yellow wires. It does not have the blue/red feed. The only other suggestion that I have, which I will look for tomorrow, is to see if the feed wire actually goes into the door through the connector near the hinges, if it does it could be extended to go to the switch. I'll let you know.

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Guest ROCKET
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greetings all

I have a picture of how the wiring is on the back of the switch but am unable to post it, can somebody do it for me if I email it to them

regards

rod

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  • Member For: 21y 11m 20d
  • Location: Brisbane

The yellow, red are the window motor wires for the drivers side.

The yellow/black, red/black are the window motor wires for the passenger side.

The Grey/Yellow is the +ve voltage

The Black is ground

You are going to have to improvise a solution using the wires you have availiable.

Basically use standard LEDs and resistors and wire them fromt he Grey/Yellow to the black. They will be on all the time that the windows have power going to them.

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  • Member For: 21y 9m 25d
  • Location: Wellington NZ

Rocket try this. Scratch away some of the coating where I have marked the red and black dots. If the back of the PC board has not got any tracks running across the back drill through with fine drill so the resistor and or LED legs can go through. This will give you a soldiering point. If your really tricky you can scratch away the coating and use surface mount LED's with one leg direct soldierd to a surface mount resistor or a standard resistor.

Good luck with the upgrade.

PS like I said earlier they will be on at all times but will go out when the car is locked or the Power window times out.

Dave

post-3-1055132261.jpg

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