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Brake Replacement.


Guest falchoon58

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Guest gjconn
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The following information about breaking in brake rotors comes from the Disc Brake Australia web site. Maybe if this advice is followed by new or soon to be owners, it may reduce the problem??

All Cast Iron Disc rotors require bedding in to ensure heat stabilisation and to increase resistance to cracking. Cracks can occur during the first few heavy stops if bedding is not carried out.

This is a Standard proceedure for rotors including premium rotors with Thermo Graphic paint applied.

* Use previously bedded pads

* For a minimum of 15 km use brakes gently at first from initially low speeds ( 60 km/h, 40mph) Progressively raise speed ( 80 to 100 km/h, 50 to 60mph) but still using gentle braking applications. This raises the rotor temperature gradually.

* For the final 2 or 3 applications brakes can be used quite hard but not enough to engage ABS or wheel lock up.

* Drive for a minimum of 15 km at low speed with minimum braking to allow the rotors to cool.

Rotors with heat paint; The Green (458 deg C )heat paint may have partially or fully turned white. The Orange( 550 deg C )paint remains unchanged when bedded correctly.

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  • Brendan Dennis
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  • Member For: 22y 26d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne, Vic

Gjconn,

Thanks for that. Will keep that in mond..

DBASteve,

Last night I went around all 4 wheels and adjusted each wheel nut. I found that mine were not as tight as you mentioned. They were tight but I would suggest only average. I used the good ol' sidcrome right angle 12" bar to loosen and then tighten again (I dont have a torque wrench). They are about back to where they were before I started. We will see. I normaly do heaps of Hwy driving so mine may not show up as soon as othres. Down the Great Ocean Road over Easter so we will see. :innocent:

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Guest dbasteve
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It's always a good idea to check your wheel nuts after a tyre change or wheel balance too as this is what triggers a lot of shudder problems.

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  • Lifetime Members
  • Member For: 22y 1m
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: South Coast NSW

I noticed when undoing the wheel nuts on my son's ute that they were not really tight - they came loose with virtually a light push with one hand on the brace. I didn't believe they had been torqued up properly at the production stage so when I put the new wheels on I tightened them to what I consider "normal" tension. Sorry didn't use a torque wrench but then I haven't done so for 40 years (on wheel nuts) and never lost a wheel so I quess my experience tells me how tight is tight enough.

BTW "tight enough" means that a woman is able to undo the nuts if she has to change a wheel on her own. So if you want to do an easy test, just get your wife/girlfriend/lover (but NOT all together) to try undoing your wheel nuts after you have tightened them.

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  • Member
  • Member For: 22y 30d
  • Location: Canberra
just get your wife/girlfriend/lover (but NOT all together) to try undoing your wheel nuts after you have tightened them.

ROFL...

Glad you specified that for us...

And also glad you specified "wheel" as well...

(mind you if you DID ask em all... I don't think it would be the WHEEL nuts being done with a tire iron... :nod: )

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  • 2 weeks later...
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  • Member For: 22y 15d
  • Location: Melbourne

Is there an update on this issue. Mine are really starting to shudder quite badly at 3500km. I don't want the dealer to machine my disks as offered at the free service. What alternatives do I have? I believe there is a fix coming soon. Do I hold off or bite the bullet and get them machined? Pain in the A#$e for otherwise brilliant machine. :angry::angry::angry:

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  • Member
  • Member For: 21y 7m 26d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Darwin NT

BAXR6T, I had mine machined at 9800 its now 12800 no sign of the shudder. I'm starting to believe it maybe the green disc theory. Others have had them replaced up to 5 times but these discs are "green" so it keeps happening. I've braked harder since machining than before and as I say they're still good. But I'm no eggspert.

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  • Member For: 21y 7m 16d
  • Location: Wellington NZ

Dbasteve. Fair enough Ford has taken a real bagging on this issue, Granted, but I hope that Ford will think about a callback when the prob is solved. I have treated my brakes in my own way when I got the car knowing that there was a prob and as yet I have been shudder free ( 5000kms on the clock ) Ford has finally got a seriously great car!! please dont let the beancounters ruin this. PS having driven the car very hard over hills I think the brakes are otherwise good for road use. Keep up the good work. :wub: PPS how can the wheel nuts be to tight/loose when the wheels were put on by Ford for most of these cars, why is there this prob?

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  • Lifetime Members
  • Member For: 22y 1m
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: South Coast NSW
how can the wheel nuts be to tight/loose when the wheels were put on by Ford for most of these cars, why is there this prob?

Mate this is the $60,000 question. We have one member here who nearly lost a wheel just after taking delivery of his car. And as I posted the wheel nuts on my son's ute were not really very tight at all. Maybe there is a torgue gun on the production line that has got a bit lazy .....

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  • Member For: 21y 11m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Geelong, Victoria...

Had my 15,000km service today and they (Rex Gorell - Geelong) replaced the discs no questions asked, said they knew all about the disc warping problem.

I'd been sweating on this after reading on this forum how alot of people were just getting the machining and one or two even charged for the machining! especially since with 14700km on the clock I probably have more kms than most with this problem even though it started a while back.

Bottom line, Ford are aware they have a problem so dont accept anything less than a no cost warranty fix.

Regards,

Ben.

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