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Max Power

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  • Member For: 20y 9m 1d
  • Location: MENAI, NSW

I did see a previous reply on using the tweeters as an input signal but thought that the head unit may have already removed the low and mid frequencies to these. I ran this past the car audio guy at JB and, although he couldn't be sure, agreed with my theory.

Install updates:

After posting my previous reply, I realised that the equalizer Im installing, outputs to the rears as well as the fronts and sub. This means that I can use the rear speakers as an input signal to the equalizer. Even though Im not amping the rear speakers (for now at least), I'll be able to control frequency adjustments via the equalizer.

Sourcing input signal:

I traced the rear speaker wires from the parcel shelf and they both (left and right) go down the passenger side towards the front under the sill cover. Theres not much room to splice into these while in the sill. The best place I found was behind the passenger kick panel. Remove the front passenger top sill cover and passenger seat rail cover. Pull up the rubber seal at the base of the A pillar and unclip the kick panel. Expose the wiring loom by pushing the kick panel carefully across towards the centre console. Unplug the great big orange plug and manouvre around to locate and splice into the appropriate wires which are;

left rear = pink/green stripe (+) and pink/black stripe (-)

right rear = blue/red stripe (+) and blue/black stripe (-)

As my equalizer is currently wedged between the passenger seat and console, I routed these input signal wires down under the sill cover and turned them in under the passenger seat.

It worked out well that the power cable and input signal wires are on opposite sides of the car and thus electronic interference will be at a minimal. I also ran my rca cables from the equalizer to the amp and rear speakers down under the passenger side sill cover into the boot space.

that's it for now. All that's left is the speaker install, speaker wires and amp install. I'll keep you posted as I go.

Regards,

Max

footnote : My car has the luxury pack. While do all this today, I noticed what looked like footwell lights on either sides minus the globes. I stuck a couple of 3W wedge globes and, hey presto, footwell lights. I'll be stuffed why Ford couldn't install 2 globes in there when everything else is there. I wouldnt be surprised if its the next release upgrade LOL.

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  • Member For: 21y 5m 15d
  • Location: Broken Hill

I have had my amp and speakers and everything installed for a while now, I hooked up my amp pretty much the same as MAXPOWER, and found that I am getting a fair wack of interference, ive come to the conclusion that the UNICHIP is the main problem! Guys without chips may still find that they get some minimal noise?

Just a quick question ? Which cable did you guys splice into for the trigger/remote wire for the amp?

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  • Member For: 22y 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne

that's strange, I have a Unichip and I am running 2 amps, 2 subs and front splits and I don't have any interference, except for the audio aux which everyone seems to have.

Mind you I don't have premium sound but once the aftermarket gear is wired in that shouldn't make a difference.

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  • Member For: 21y 3m 1d
  • Location: Geelong
I did see a previous reply on using the tweeters as an input signal but thought that the head unit may have already removed the low and mid frequencies to these. I ran this past the car audio guy at JB and, although he couldn't be sure, agreed with my theory.

Nah the tweeter has a capacitor on it to do the filtering. I've tapped into the tweeters for mine.

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