Audiophiles Opinions On Premium Upgrade

[Max Power]

how did you hook your amp up to your head unit I was told theres no rca plugs on mine even though I have premium sound??

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Read my first post in this topic As I said; I used the left and right high outputs from the BA head unit (you find them connected to the left and right speakers in the rear parcel shelf). Splice onto them just before the speaker. You will need a high to low (RCA) converter after the splice. Do not put more speakers directly off the splice/head unit because the factory head unit doesnt have enough power to drive more cones. Go into and amp via a converter. Clear?

Cheers!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hi veczar.

If the amp behind the left side cover in the boot powers more than just the sub like the parcel shelf speakers (does it?), wouldn't it be better to splice into the rear parcel shelf speaker wires before they go through the amp and therefore remove the need for high to low converters?

Regards,

Max

[killer]

I upgraded my xr6t standard sound system with 2 sets of Boston Accoustics

model FX8 5 x 8 inch speakers and piggy backed a Sony amp into the speaker

cables from the head unit.

The system really ROCKS using these speakers considering that I could not install

any woofer because of the limitations of the standard sound system--somthing

you wont have to worry about with the Premium sound due to having an extra

channel for the sub woofer.

I can highly recommend these speakers.

KILLER

[Falchoon]

I thought the amp on Premium Sound only powered the sub?

[Lawsy]

I thought the amp on Premium Sound only powered the sub?

Correct.

[Cro]

For $900, the colour screen and the 6 stacker is worth it for me. Upgrade your amps and speakers though...

[bob^]

Yeah I was going to use the factory remote wire to turn on my amps, as I had found it in the wiring diagram, but no amount of testing with the test light or multimeter could get it to do anything. Then I noted at how small the wire was and figure these amps can't turn on conventionally. I'm guessing its a digital type on or off.

Also found wierd things where if you unplug the amp and plug it back in, it won't turn on until you restart the stereo.

I ended up tapping into the tweeters in the pillar for the high-low converter so this way I could still fade out the rears however much I wanted without it having any effect on the fronts.

If you have an auto then the grommet is huge for your power cable. You could comfortably fit 3 runs of 0 guage, but I'm happy with just 1 run of it . If you have a manual then I'm not sure where you could run the cable.

As for not being able to hear the sub with the seats up, take out the factory sub and remove the carpet underneath the shelf, or cut a hole in the carpet below the hole in the shelf. That should be ample for allowing bass into the cabin. I find the bass just fine with the seats up, and still retaining my factory sub, although that is still going to be removed once project sound deadening begins.

edit - I was running my woofer off the factory amp for a couple of weeks. Loaded down to 1.6ohms. It loved it hehe but I'm not responsible for anyone doing the same and blowing their amp up. They are built to run a nominal 4ohm load. It wasn't very loud as one could imagine, but it was definately an improvement over standard. I also base this on the efficiency of the enclosure I was using.

Edited 13/12/04 03:26 AM by bob^

[veczar]

Hi veczar.

If the amp behind the left side cover in the boot powers more than just the sub like the parcel shelf speakers (does it?), wouldn't it be better to splice into the rear parcel shelf speaker wires before they go through the amp and therefore remove the need for high to low converters?

Regards,

Max

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The prem audio amp ONLY powers the small prem audio sub and that is all. Go down to your dealer and ask for the entertainment system/stereo wiring schematic and you will see.

...and yes I tried to get the input lines for my new sub from the lines before they go into the amp but I wourked out that this does work because the head unit only seems to feed the amp what it requests (through the diag line I am guessing). In short it does not work and all you get is a faint sound from whatever you attact.

The prem head unit powers all speaker in the car except the sub! Also everything in the ford seems to be high output/input including the lines before they get to the prem amp. So regardless you need a converter, and I would suggest a 3rd party converter not the high inputs located on some amps.

[bob^]

Agreed. I'm using an Audiocontrol EQL which is also a 13 band EQ as well as doing the high-low level converting.

[Max Power]

After procrastinating for a while, Ive finally started.

Before I bore everyone, some questions;

Who can tell me the wire codes for the left and right FRONT channels of the premium sound?

How do you remove the centre console?

Progress report;

Im now also installing an old Kenwood EQ Ive had sitting in the cupboard. This will give me frequency and sub controls up front while driving. It doesnt exactly fit cleanly depthwise in the console under the power socket so Ive wedged it for now between the passenger seat and console. I need some time and maybe some ideas about a permanent location e.g console bin, glove box, etc.

I was going to use the rear speaker wires as source for the EQ but, as the amp will be powering the fronts and sub, I was going to leave the rears as fill and upgrade these speakers to Pioneer 5 x 7's. Hence the need now to get a source signal from the fronts preferably near the ICC plug where the EQ is close to.

From the EQ, I wanted the RCA's to go under the centre console rearwards under the carpet to the amp in the boot. Unfortunately, I removed every screw in the console and still couldnt get it to come out. Can anyone help? Is there something tricky I need to do with the handbrake?

Power cable install:

I ran 8 gauge power cable to the boot for the amp install. I did this by routing cable inside driver's guard beside the battery. I had to remove the guard cover around the wheel. I made a hole in the grommet housing the wiring loom coming out of the cabin near the fuse box. I pushed about a metre in then went inside car and found the cable. I ran this down the driver's side under the sill. You'll need to remove the front and rear driver's seat rail covers to gain access. I removed the sill covers and b pillar covers, breaking 2 plastic hooks behind the b pillar covers along the way. When I was at the driver's seatbelt bolt, I found that I didn't have the star socket to remove it so I had to go under anyway realising that the 8 gauge can be squeazed under the sill panel all the way. The cable is then pushed behind the corner of the seat and under the backrest into the boot space.

Remote amp trigger:

I routed this the same as the power cable though, at the dash, I turned it in towards the centre, over the steering column (drop the steering column at the adjuster) then in behind the centre console tapping into the power socket for the accessories feed. To get access to the rear of the power socket, you'll need to pull up on the shifter surround, then remove the 2 console trims which are on either side that lead up to the upper dash beside the ICC. Then you can remove the power socket tray by removing the screws on either side and pulling out.

Sub-box:

I was about to make one but then came across a Qmax 34lt sealed box for a 12" at JB hifi for $119 (got it for $100). It ended up fitting quite snuggly and allows the amp to fit beside it.

that's it for now. Stay tuned.

Regards,

Max

[bob^]

Use the wires at the tweeters for your inputs.