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Running In


Mondie

How did you run in your car? Are you having trouble?  

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  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 17y 6m 29d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Caracciola Karussell

My taxi was run in on the AHG long track and skidpan!!

Had plenty of warranty work but none relating to the engine.. Go figure!

My dealer (Mitch who used to work at Lanes in Mandurah) told me the majority of people who buy performance fords at Lanes leave strips on departure :)

Edited by Mat
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  • Member
  • Member For: 15y 11m 23d

lol I just got my fg xr5t I took it sideways straight out of their driveway, be sure to vary the loads and dont let the engine idle for too long, u need to bed the rings in, best way to run in is around the mountains where the engine is always at different rpm and load. ive done 800kms of thrashing lol.

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  • 1 year later...
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 4m 28d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Gold Coast, QLD

My motor is about to go in and I'd like some tips...

The bad girl will be ready as soon as my CAI arrives from Chris @ Rapid (fingers crossed this week!). We're thinking of using the standard weight 15w40 that ford use for the first run of maybe a tank and then changing to the semi I use now which is Penrite 10w50 with a new filter, running it for another 1000 and doing the filter and oil again. Does this sound okay? Also as it's been sitting for 4 months, I'll be doing the fuel filter at that first change incase it picks up any sediments from the long sit.

I'm wanting to change to a 10w40 or 5w40 oil and am open to input from others on their experience. I'm a believer of oils and filters being good insurance, so cost does matter but quality is more important. I'll be using K&N Oil Filters, and am also open to what peoples spark plug recommendations are, obviously they need to come pre-gapped.

As I said, I'll be running it for a tank and changing the filters and oil. Any other things that need a check after installing the motor and a short run, obviously a look over everything wouldn't go astray, but any things people have come across that might be missed, or neglected.

Cheers guys, I'm as anxious as a tweaker in a cop shop, can't wait!!!

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  • blind leading the blind
  • Member
  • Member For: 16y 2m
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Mt Alford, Queensland

dude sounds good but I would be draining the fuel and getting some fresh stuff in her - dont think the octane rating would be too good after 4 months

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Guest XR09
  • Guests

Definately get rid of the fuel Matt. Give the tank a good flush too just in case.

Feeler gauges are cheap and worth buying so even if they come pregapped I would still want to be sure myself. But I'm a pedantic old *beep*.

Recharge your battery.

10/40 is fine.

Make a new compelation disc. Empty 2lt milk carton to piss in so you don't have to stop or get out of it.

Just like xmas hey.

Hope it all goes well mate. All the best.

Edited by XR09
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Guest EGOXRT
  • Guests

Start the car run/drive it for 20 min and drain the oil, this is when you will pick up

most metallic particles. Do not idle it to long or get it hot, apart from that load the thing up in the first 20 min of running.

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  • Gold Donating Members
  • Member For: 19y 7m 3d
  • Gender: Male

I agree Totally........... :turboboink:

I have never taken more than 20min's to run in an engine LOL...

Edited by revheadrobbo
No need to quote above post
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Guest XR09
  • Guests

Seriously only twenty minutes ? I'm not arguing. I'm asking. I don't really know.

Just thought about 500km would be around the mark. Just put a little stress on the motor, not much but vary the load on the bottom end and revs on the top. And let it idle for like twenty minutes before driving anywhere after a rebuild, or as long as it runs at temp. That's how I run my bikes in.

If I did it at 25km which is all it would haveat best after twenty minutes, I would feel that I should do the next dump at 500km. Then every 6000 or 6 months.

But Matt hey, I am no expert on it. I really am asking.

Edited by XR09
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