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Running In


Mondie

How did you run in your car? Are you having trouble?  

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  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 21y 8m 17d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Sydney, NSW

the engines get a dry run-in in the factory to bed the rings in... but still that many hours at a constant rpm is not good for a fresh engine...

if you REALLY want to be on the safe side, I'd get it truck to where ever you live and run it in normally;

ie, always make sure you warm it up properly and then thrash the ring out of it, lots of load, lots of throttle, but not full rpm till about 1000kms...

I thrashed my few new Falcons from the moment of pick up and they all made VERY strong stock power figures on the dyno.

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  • Member
  • Member For: 13y 11m 14d
  • Gender: Male

Just drive it. I wouldn`t roar 3 shades of sh*te out it for a while till I became familiar with it but just drive the thing, once it`s had its first oil change you`re good to go.

And plus one of the kid at the dealership. I`ve seen them taking cars from the warehouse to the dealership here and witnessed all sorts of Korean crap POURING out of exhausts as the punks flog them. And when I say flog I mean flat changing pizzlement.

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  • Member
  • Member For: 15y 9m 3d
  • Gender: Male

Thanks for the replies.. after all this, I think the best bet would be to get it freighted down and then drive it like the suggestions here. It'll save me 1300 km on the clock, and also give me a chance to run it in right.

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Guest XR09
  • Guests

Fark that........ Go get a heap of clear 3M sheets and cover the front up and drive it back. Don't be a wussy with it. A good thirteen hundred K run would be great for it.

Don't load it up. Don't put the boot into it at low revs.

Don't hit the rev limiter.

Try not to get caught in traffic. Although I doubt this new donk will have the prob's idling too long the old one did.

Check all the fluids on every petrol stop.

And the brakes.... don't jump on them. Brembo rotors are crap and squishy soft. So dont slam them or over work them.

If you really want to run it in, you can drop me back to Noosa after We pick it up, then head home.

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  • Sucker
  • Moderating Team
  • Member For: 20y 5m 10d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Brisbane

lol...love your thinking but he's collecting it from Darwin.

Don't get it freighted, is the perfect opportunity to get intimate with your new baby. As the consensus suggests just vary the revs for the first few hundred kms, maintain the same speed just go through the gears.

Then go :3gears:

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  • Member
  • Member For: 13y 6m 8d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Central Qld Coast

I've heard stories of freshly rebuild engines getting started on dyno's (chassis dyno) With instant load to prevent any glazing of the bore's.

I used to run an engine dyno for diesel engine's (150-2800 hp) and we would definatly warm it up with a decent 20-30% load.

From then on increasing our rpm by 100 each time(max rev's being 2150rpm) with 40-60% load, finally getting to max rpm and 100% load for 2-3 hrs.

Also keeping an eye on the exhaust color and smoke making sure that no blue smoke was present.

Most likly completly different with petrol engine's as the rpm's are much much higher.

Proberly the most helpful thing I can contribute to this thread is to always let your engine warm up and cool down.

Metal expands and you dont want that process to happen really quickly. Things Warp,Crack,Bend.

Also a good idea to take it sort of easy from new, as new things can fail too and the more Speed/Rpm/Strain determines what sort of a mess will be left after it fails. (engine, gearbox, diff, your whole car, your life, or just a rattle/ticking for the time being)

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