Installing Electronic Oil Pressure Sender

[ZAP]

I had a lot of trouble finding info when I was installing my Apexi EL2 gauges. I needed info on the type of T piece I needed to buy to add the oil sender and keeping the factory switch. I thought that this is something that other members would want to install and rather than going through all the crap I would write a How To on installing an oil pressure T piece and sender.

Firstly you will need: an Oil pressure gauge, most use a common brass threaded flange. Do not by a cheap one, buy a name brand (Autometer, VDO, Etc) or you will be risking oil leaks and inaccurate readings.

BRASS T piece

Plumbers Tape (the thick stuff used for hot water)

Spanners

The pictures and parts are for my Apexi electronic oil sender, but most Jap gauges should use the same thread, but please check first. Buy the T piece after you get the gauge so you can make sure it will fit.

I bought a VDO PN# 230.032 solid brass T piece ($16). This was the most difficult part to source as I did not know the thread sizes until after I removed the sender.

I removed the original Oil switch while the oil was drained from the car, so I do not know if any oil will leak from the switch when removed, but I doubt much would.

The original oil switch is located on the front middle left side of the engine under the inlet manifold. I found it easier to access it from under the raised car.

Pic taken from under the car

Remove the switch and collar with an open ended spanner (19mm from memory)

Pic of original switch and collar

Using the plumbers tape wrap it around the thread of the T piece and Switch, only put one wrap around making sure all the thread is covered. Do not go crazy and put heaps on or you will cause leaks and make it difficult to install. Only tape the outside threads and smooth the tape using your fingers around the thread

Pic of the collar installed on the T piece and the original oil switch:

Tape is NOT required on the engine block thread, but if you must (or can) put one wrap around this thread.

Install the completed T piece using care not to cross thread when installing. Tighten up the T piece with a spanner, do not over tighten or you will split the brass T piece.

Once the T piece assembly is tight, screw in your pressure gauge sender or fitting ensuring that you have used the plumbers tape and tighten. Most senders have an interference fit so be careful not to over tighten.

Pic of T piece with all fittings, the sender is there for illustration purposes only and was installed AFTER the T piece was installed:

Plug the original switch back in and run the new oil hose or wire from the new sender to the cabin. If you are using a hose type (analogue) gauge, DO NOT start the motor until you have the gauge connected, also do not kink the hoses as they tend to leak if kinked. Wipe any excess oil from around the fittings.

After you have checked that everything is back together, start the car and watch or any oil leaks. If the dash oil light stays on turn the motor off and check the plug, the light should only be on for about 5 sec. Check your gauge and you should see pressure being measure and it will increase as the RPM increase. Double check for leaks and go for a short drive. After the drive, get back under the car and have a really close check for leaks.

This was my end result:

[Trough Lolly]

top tech-tips.

[XRT330]

that's Great!

I am assuming the oil guage is electric.....does not have a oil feed into the back of the guage.

What does the oil pressure normally sit on when driving\ Idling?

Thanks for the info.

AM

[ZAP]

The gauge reads 4000Kpa when idling cold, but after some hard driving it usually sits at 2500, the highest I have seen it go is 7000.

The gauge is electronic as I do not like oil hoses under pressure running around my car

[Benny]

Excellent post great info. Have you got a pic of the T piece installed, just looks like it might be hard getting the connector back on with the length of the T piece and the shortness of the wiring harness.

Where's the most likely place to get that T fitting?

Thanks

[ZAP]

The T piece was easier to install as it was longer, but you need to install the collar, T piece and switch and make sure its all fully tight before you install it in the car. Installing it was simple as it just screwed in and just needed to be nipped up with a spanner. Getting the T piece to allign so I could install the Apexi sender was a bit of a trial and error, but it ended up fine. I bought the VDO T piece from Auto1, they will need to go hunting as it will be with their Gauge bits. Luckly my parts guy know me and just let me find it myself and take several different models to try.

I will get some pics of the finnished result soon, but it is easy to plug it all back together and does not get in the way of anything...luckly

[FamiliaGTRAe]

:lol: That Boost Gauge looks familiar somehow?

Good to see at least one thing that was related to my XR6 is actually working !!!

Cheers,

[ZAP]

Cam,

That gauge is the best. I am very happy with the results.

How is the fight with Ford going ?

[xr6t ute]

Good work! This article has helped me heaps! One thing though, when you hooked up the lights to your guages, did you do it so they dimmed when you wanted the dash lights to dim? If you did, where did you tap into?

[ZAP]

My car had the luxury pack, so I had the wiring from the clock for lights. I have not tried to dim the dash lights to see if it does....I suspect it will