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  • Member For: 22y 1m 26d
  • Location: Melbourne

I hope that not to much is going to be expected from the Unichip with regard to the "off the mark" ability of the XR6T. Running a Unichip in my Cobra and though it is fantastic, it can only do so much (whether n/a or s/c or turbo) at low revs...

The DRIVER has to contribute and practise his/her starts. Just load up the auto a little at first (say 900-1100rpm) and then let go of the brake and plant the foot. When the auto changes gear while you are flat out it goes through a lot worse than just being loaded up a little.

Remember too that just planting the foot on the gas on an auto at rest is worse than slightly loading it up.

ps ... I'm hanging out for the Unichip (with some Ford acknowledgement) ... there will be more power and about the same torque but spread out more (1500-5000 instead of 2000-4500).

Rob

proud owner of Phantum XR6T (for her) and a Black XR6T ute (for me), both autos and the dog's car is a manual Mustang Cobra (chipped and Koni'ed) which goes like the wind....

chips all round and they would go pretty well the same. :D

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  • I see red
  • Member
  • Member For: 22y 4m 14d
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  svtang said:
and the dog's car is a manual Mustang Cobra (chipped and Koni'ed) which goes like the wind....

Bloody spoilt dog... :blink:

  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 22y 4m 5d
  • Location: Sydney

I found when taken of from stand still I only apply half pedal for about a second or so then plant it to the floor, with a bit of experimenting the car seems to pull a hell of a lot better than just flooring it.

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  • Member For: 22y 6m 20d
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chrislak> You have got it pretty close there - the best starts with an auto, apart from loading up under brakes, is to apply throttle progressively as the accelleration builds, keeping just ahead of it as you go ie. depress pedal slowly at first and then increase the speed that you push it down to the floor. The whole process from start to flat to the boards should typically be around 2 to 3 secs. Try it a few times to get the "timing" right and you'll eventually get a feel for how quickly you can put the pedal down without suffering from that "bogged down" type feeling.

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  • Member For: 22y 6m 20d
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400kw means nothing as regards quick takeoffs - you can have 1000kw but it's no use if there is no torque before 5000rpm.

The main things that influence your takeoffs are:

engine displacement

camshaft profile

fuel/ignition map

vehicle weight

gearing

torque convertor stall speed and multiplication factor

driver technique/ability.

The cheapest method of improving takeoffs, if you want to start throwing money around, is with a diff ratio change - go to a 3.73 or 3.9. With the 3.73 you will still retain reasonable economy, but from 3.9 and shorter you will suffer economy losses when cruising.

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  • Member For: 22y 2m 5d
  • Location: Toowoomba

is a 400kw upgrade for real? And can I ask why people would want to make there xr's that powerful, they would be a b**ch to drive on the road everyday.

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  • Member
  • Member For: 22y 1m 6d
  • Location: Wellington NZ

I agree with Turboman but do what he says and load up under brakes to. Goes like this, Watch apossing traffic light, see it turn yellow, applie brake, after 1 second applie 1/4 throttle, light goes green release brake and build to full throttle. Look in rear vission mirror. Laugh as your watch the old push rod, piston slapping, oil burning, plastic poorly fitted and unmatched VY gen 3's owner curse as he has just been left for dust by a bloody six cyclinder. Happy dragging ( within all legal and moral peramiters of course ) I even think I have been able to break the 6 second mark a few times. :D

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I have an auto in my rex and run motorkhanas and hillclimbs regularly. Let me tell you, if you think the XR6T is bad off the mark, try it in a rex!. It's like a auto hyundai until the boost cuts in. At least the XR6T has some torque to work with.

Saying that, I have still managed a 5 flat 0-100 with a G-Tech doing a heel and toe start. That's just a fact of life for the autos.

And b4 you change diff ratio's, look at changing the stall converter in the gearbox itself. In the rex this is a $500 mod (plus install) and should become more popular when the car is a bit older. You will easily find hald a sec or more in the 0-100 dash.

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