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Rewritable Cd's


BlueXR6Turbo

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After I first discovered that CD-RW's didn't work, I went and bought some brand new ones (4x) and tried one of them.

Those of you that are able to use CD-RW's in your cars, could you please post what brand you use?

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Those of you that are able to use CD-RW's in your cars, could you please post what brand you use?

I use verbatim CD-R disks without problems...I have not used any CD-RW so cannot comment.

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  • Poison Fish. Poison Fish. TASTY FISH!!!
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I heard from a couple of Audiophile($10000's for amps and preamps etc) guys that TDK CD Audio are the best if you wanna burn CD's,legally of course...;) so some *beep* only takes $1.50 a Cd not $30 bucks...

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After I first discovered that CD-RW's didn't work, I went and bought some brand new ones (4x) and tried one of them.

Those of you that are able to use CD-RW's in your cars, could you please post what brand you use?

Feel free to send me the bill Blue :thumbsup: , maybe I should have read the question a little better (can't for the life of me remember that you asked about CD-RW's specificaly). I personaly havent tried CD-RW's the only disc's I use are Princo CDR's at $30 for a stack of 50, then when I'm sick of the track's I pass the disc onto a friend or relative.

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I heard from a couple of Audiophile($10000's for amps and preamps etc) guys that TDK CD Audio are the best

Coming from another audiophile, I should let you know that providing your CD-ROM/CD-RW (whichever drive you are using to read the original discs) supports 'digital audio extraction' (99% of newer drives do) then there is no difference whatsoever in sound quality from one brand of disc to another. Regardless of what options are ticked, what speed the disc is burnt at etc.

As you probably know CDs are stored as digital information (different series of 0s and 1s) so you'll either copy the original data or you won’t. There is no in-between (unlike analogue mediums such as tape where quality is degraded each copy you make).

The only quality differences between different brands of writable discs are durability (most will last many decades and put up with many scratches) and compatibility (some types of CD-Rs, CD-RWs cause problems with some players).

Avoid expensive CDR-s that claim to increase audio quality as its blatant false advertising unless you have an ancient drive that can only extract audio by converting it to analogue audio first.

Having said the above, it is safer to burn at lower speeds for the sake of data integrity. Burning at higher speeds doesn’t change audio quality, but it does make sure that there are no data errors (which when present can manifest as skips during playback).

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Those of you that are able to use CD-RW's in your cars, could you please post what brand you use?

The only CD-RW I have is the one that came with my Burner (Samsung DVD / Burner Combo) its a 4x - 10x Speed CD-RW.

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A few things you need to know about CD-R's and CDR-W's in non-PC CD drives:

1) CD-R and CD-RW are different standards. Many normal CD players will not like CD-RW's as they do not strictly adhere to the CD-Audio specification. (Red Book). In this case you can not use a CD-RW and must us a CD-R. To play a CD-RW the cd player must usually either be poorly adhering to standards, or specifically made to cope with CD-RW's

2) Burn speed should not make any difference at all. Its the speed at which the CD is created - it does not have bearing on how the CD is played. It should not create more errors or a harder or easier to read track, so long as your PC can cope with burning at that speed. (ie you dont get buffer underrun). If you do get buffer underrun the effect is ruining the CD you are trying to burn (due to a gap in the track), NOT a more jumpy CD when you play it. What is burnt onto the CD is *identical* for a properly functioning burner regardless of burning speed. Not thicker/thinner, clearer/blurier, more errors/less errors etc.

3) Different CD-R's are made differently. In fact some of the same brand and type are different depending on who they got to make that batch. There are different types of manufacturing methods, including the plastics used and the dye layer. Some may work in some players and some may not. What usually determines this is the dye layer. For example my Onkyo DVD player only plays Type 1 CD-RW's. Anything else it simply can not read, I imagine because the dyes used dont work well with the laser in my DVD player. But if I use Type 1 CD-R's its not a problem.

I have tried CD-R's in my XR6T premium stereo and had no issues at all. The particular discs Ive tried thus far mostly include cheap Princo 80 Minute Audio cd-R's.

Best thing to ensure success if you are having problems is to NOT use CD-RW's, try different brands of CD-R's and use good software that can burn proper CD-Audio standard cd's. Roxio Easy CD is a good choice if you dont have something else to use.

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has anyone noticed that CDR's jump on their system? Mine does constantly. Do you think its a problem with the unit? I have tried all different brands including KODAK Gold's and the Verbatim Blue Audio cds.. but occassionaly it jumps, havent noticed it on original cds though most likely because I dont play many of them.

I haven't had any problems with CD's jumping (copies or originals). Does it do it randomly? At the same spots on the CD's? Does it only do it when you go over bumps, etc. or even when you are stationary?

I've been burning music for a while now and have noticed that most problems occur on cheaper stereo systems regardless of the brand and with the CD thickness also regardless of the brand. With a decent stereo system, it should be able to read thick or thin CD’s (depending on how old the system is) without a problem, but with cheaper stereo systems you need to go with the thicker CDs. So to be on the safe side all you need to do is always buy the thicker CDs like TDK but there are other plenty of other brands. Also I have never been able to get a CDRW to play on a normal CD player but I have on compatible DVD players.

<_<

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Qld Police have been told not to used CDRs or CDRWs in their BAs because the unit will eat their CDs which will require a trip back to Ford!

This is on standard XTs.

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