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Showing results for tags 'xr6t'.
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Hey all, I have a 04 Ba Xr6T (with BTR gearbox). Looking at getting up to 300rwkw. Car is currently stock as a rock, but after researching for a while I have come up with a list of things im gonna need to support reaching that mark but without sacrificing the reliability to much. As this is my daily I'm not looking for cheap power but also not wanting to spend loads. If things need to bought then I will but trying to avoid to much. Here is my list, let me know your thoughts. Venom Turbo back exhaust system (4" downpipe -> dual 2.5Inch system). PWR Trans Oil Cooler Kit - With trans guage to monitor temps. Demon Pro Parts XR6 Oil Catch Can. 4″ Turbo Side Intake & Passenger Tray Battery relocation suit XR6 Turbo. Plazmaman BA/BF BAR & PLATE 650HP CROSSOVER INTERCOOLER KIT. Turbosmart 25mm kompact duel port bov. Walbro 460 460LPH Fuel Pump. 1000cc BOSCH Fuel injectors x 6. Crow Cams valve springs. Barra Billet 4340 Oil Pump Gears. Internal Wastegate Actuator. Built BTR Transmission to support. Other mods outside of engine to support the body is not listed here. Thanks.
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So this afternoon I put My Ba Xr6 turbo 5spd into second gear and gave it a boot till around 3,500rpm and could hear a super load ticking noise coming from the engine bay, replicated the same sound, only in second and as soon as boost starts kicking in. thoughts?
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02 ba turbo ute in limp mode Parked up ute put in new injectors and fuel pump. Went to tuner ute was in limp mode was fine before installing the items. In process if changing fuel pump broke a abs wire and soldered back together. Auto elec said abs is all reading right. car will go up to 110kph stays in 3rd no speedo all prnd flashing. has Canbus fault on scanner and sometimes speed sensor have Replaced abs pump,tried a engine ecu (only plugged in not programmed to start) replaced fusebox. Check wiring. Reset code on gearbox. Cleaned gearbox wiring. please help this has been a pain for months and no one can find the issue
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Here's the obligatory thread to follow my dream daily's quest for 310rwkw! I want a place to add photo's, ask questions specific to my rig (without spamming other threads) and update anyone that may be interested! I'll treat this as like a sort of "build breakdown" even though its no where near as tricked out as a lot of the other builds on the forum I bought the car just over a year and half ago and basically immediately started saving and buying parts for the rig. Here's a before and after shot of the car from the first time I took it out for some shots till the latest. I got the car on a loan for 95 per week with an interest rate of 6.75%. For my first ever loan I was pretty impressed with the low rates. The car was on the market for 17k with 102,000km on the clock, but after all the warranties and car dealership sh*t it totalled to 24k (interest included over 5 years). First ever photo I took of the daily Latest photo taken of the daily! 🤤 (Yes its blurred, but its the only one that is landscape xD) The car is booked in with Monsta Torque in Perth on the 18th of January for Rob's stage 1 package on top of the work that's already been done. The stage 1 package will include 1000cc injectors and will be tuned using PCMTEC. My power goal for this setup is 310rwkw which I'm hoping is achievable on the stock turbo. Engine Mod List Billet oil pump gears Plazmaman 1000hp intercooler Intune Motorsports piping kit Intune Motorsports oil feed Intune Motorsports throttle elbow Antz Performance Intake and battert relo kit Ultrex 4" dump and high flow cat (middle muffler has been removed too) Walbro 255 intank fuel pump 1000cc injectors Trans Mod List Trans oil flushed at 115,000km External cooler with fan Hopes of prayers that she doesn't go boom Suspension and handling Superpro hybrid diff bushes Superpro rear control blades Superpro front upper control arms Superpro Camber adjustment kit BC Racing coilovers Falken FK510's all round (however currently has the cheapest rubber I could get on the rear) 100% fully legal wheel spacers Audio stuff & interior All interior lights changed for LEDs Kayhan audio ICC Alpine Type R mono amp Alpine Type R 4 channel amp Alpine Type R front splits Alpine Type S rear coax JL Audio dual sub setup Sound deadened all doors and boot I'm interested to see what you all think it'll make with the mod list mentioned above 😊 Keep an eye out for the new year when I'll be posting the dyno sheets 😁😁
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Hi Guys, I am in the process of developing a paddle gear shift setup (pretty close to complete) for the FG Falcon auto gearbox. I have had the prototype working well in my car for about a year tweaking paddle shape, switch mechanism design etc. I need to get an idea of paddle (the bit that you touch) powdercoat colours that would be suitable as I have seen a couple of different vehicle interior colour schemes. My XR6 Turbo has silver trim so silver or maybe just black would be suitable. I have a friend that has a G6E that has gloss black trim where the silver bits are on my car so I would think black would be suitable in his case. I did a set in Gloss black but I didn't like the look of it. The set in the photos below (with white background) are powdercoated Satin Black which I quite like (probably hard to tell from the photos though). I will pre-empt questions about why the paddles are stationary rather than rotating with the wheel. The simple answer is that there is just not enough room between the steering wheel rim and the indicator and wiper stalks especially when they are pulled (high beam and wash) where the stalks almost touch the back of the steering wheel. I figured it is good enough for the following exotic cars so our humble Falcons should be OK with it: Ferrari F12, 458, 488, 599 Aston Martin DB11 Lamborghini Merchialago Lamborghini Aventador (I am sure there are more, these are just the ones I have noticed) There are also a couple of photos of an older prototype installed on my car. Any suggestions of paddle colours would be great or any other feedback.
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I was wondering if it was possible and what can I do to turn a b series xr6t into a n/a other than the obvious?
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Hi Guys and Gals, As requested by some mates of mine, I've taken some videos and photos of my 2009 FG XR6T Ex VICPOL HWP to show some of the differences and ways to spot an ex police car including the dual battery system in the boot. Feel free to click on the advertisements Comment/Rate/Subscribe! First is a video of the interior modifications and things such as where the gun rubs on the seat etc: Second is the dual battery system and modifications in the engine bay: Third is the dual battery system and modifications to the boot: Photos are self explanatory. Exterior Interior Differences -
Hey all, I own a 2010 FG XR6T, recently the battery died so I replaced it. Now my car wont start when I turn the ignition over nothing happens at all! The new battery is fine all fuses seem fine, I got a scan tool and ran it through the car, the car showed up with 20 fault codes after documenting each code we cleared them but 4 still remain. U1900 P1000 U1055 U1066 Can someone please help me or show me a solution!
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Hi all, Am a full newbie to the fordxr6turbo forum, or any forum for that matter, and just thought I'd share my experience in converting my BA mk2 XT wagon into a turbo/manual/lLSD equipped weapon. Got a bit fed up with how much choice Expensive Daewoo fan's have when it comes to a quick wagon and was always pretty cut about ford never making a BA or BF (or even FG) wagon that had some poke. Massive missed opportunity. Anyway, I got a bit of inspo from looking at other members conversions on this forum where they'd converted their taxi's into turbo WMD's and thought I'd give it a red hot crack. So I got excited one night after a couple of bevvy's and found myself as being the proud owner of a beaten up xr6 turbo ute. 5 months later and I can finally say the conversion is complete and the wagon is running sweet as a nut. Completely stock in every way apart from a cold air snorkel from an FPV typhoon and a Turbosmart BOV and Turbosmart Wastegate Actuator. Have no idea what power it's putting out but it's enough for me at the mo. Am looking to get a tune done at some stage in the future but the bank account won't allow that for a while so I'll just keep it as-is for now. I got some gangstaaaaaaaaa wheels for it too and reckon they set the thing off perfectly. Will post again soon to cover off on the issues I ran into along the way. The reason I joined is to share what I came across during the conversion process cause I ran into heaps of conflicting advice from this forum and others and just thought I'd help clear things up where I could.
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Any help would be good have been told it could be valve stems as the ute was sitting out side for ages, is it better to fix or replace with another motor All suggestions welcome Cheers tyler
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Hi all, might possibly be in wrong topic. I was wondering if some one could possibly tell me the difference in a barra between a non xr, xr6, and a xr6t, apart from the obvious turbo lol. Cheers
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Hey guys, I am looking to purchase a FG-X XR6T and want to spend a few thousand (including labour) on increasing power. Is this achievable? Will I need to travel to Sydney/Brisbane to reliably get mods installed and a decent tune? (Located Mid-North NSW). Or just stay local? $3-4000 would probably be my limit on spending. I want the car to be reliable and be fine dealing with my lead foot on a daily basis for years. 350kw is just a ballpark figure I would probably be happy with. I dont want to go crazy, I just want to get the most bang for buck. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, the more info the better.
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Thought I would post up here about my car on this forum after stalking for quite a while and becoming quite active on the "Other Forum" Have had my 2013 FG Xr6T for nearly two years now and have slowly been accumulating a few modifications for it. Had the final bits of work done a few weeks ago at MonstaTorque and managed to pull a final figure of 400.7rwkw. Que comments of hub dyno and manual The route I've taken with the car and many parts can probably be looked at as unconventional and excessive. As a young bloke about to venture into his first mortgage, I decided to spend the extra whilst I can afford it and build a relatively reliable base and future proof as far as more mods go as I plan to keep the car for a very long time. Unfortunately have not had the extra cash to do my oil pump gears or timing chain gear so am very aware of my need to stay away from my limiter and even have a soft cut in place (Although I've been told with this amount of torque these cars like to push straight through this) Bit of info on the car: - 2013 FG Xr6T - Full poverty pack - 6 Speed manual -Bought dead stock with 56,000kms from a single female owner 2 years ago Since then I've done a few mods over the past 2 years, totaling to the following now at 75,000kms - IMS Twin Bush Diff Hat - Wavetrack Diff Centre w/ aftermarket half shafts - Shockworks Coilovers - Single Piece Carbon Fibre Tailshaft - Malwood Opt3+ w/ short shifter - 4" X-force Stainless Exhaust - Jonny Tig 1800HP Stealth Black Intercooler w/ turboside airbox and battery relocations - Crow Race Valve Springs - KPM 1000HP In tank dual pump fuel system - 58mm Billet wheel Machined into my existing 3576 turbo, rear housing ported and a 40mm flapper fitted - 1000cc Injectors and custom tune with Ngauge interface - Copy F6 Bumper - 19" FPV Twisties - DJR Bobtail Spoiler Much like so many have done in the past with their threads, I want to be able to share any info I have on my current list of mods in the hopes it aids with people future mod choices. Any questions feel free to ask. Its gonna be a bit hard to post some photos as I'm writing this on my lunch break but will post a few via Tapatalk below Some quick photos from my phone
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Have been having issues with my Ba xr6t mkii manual , for a while a whirring sound would come and go slightly between 60-80 km/h (I put it down to just about time for a centre bearing change over. then after about 3-4 weeks of driving to and from work I gave it a little throttle from a standing start and it made a very bad vibration through the car , pedals and gearstick. after that , any hard acceleration of more than 1/2 throttle would make bad vibration and the whirring sound had now become a Humming sound heard and felt above 50km/h. and an all around feeling of "something isn't right" was lingering ....a couple of days after this (about 60-80 kms later) I was driving with barely any acceleration at 60km/h and the whole car broke into vibration with a metal on metal sound present, the car also seemed to now have some resistance under acceleration as if the handbrake had been left on.... Babied the car home about 30km away and every time I would hit an incline and had to give anything more than a touch of acceleration the car would vibrate/drone and hum violently . on the very last hill to my house I honestly didn't think I was going to make it. the last 2kms. when I got home I took it apart and on this video is what I found...... If anyone can point me in the direction of what it might be? and the costs involved / possibly even someone in the northern perth area that can fix it, with quality workmanship? Until I get it fixed im leaving it parked up . im hoping it'll get me to the repair shop without the cost of a tow, though I've been told too much vibration being sent back through the gearbox etc could be very bad? car runs 500+rwhp on 15psi -
hello I have a manual 2012 xr6t ute with 600hp stock timing chain keeps jumping a tooth when giving it a hard time so I upgraded and got the atomic timing chain kit with crank sprocket 3 days later it jumped a tooth again I have been lucky so far with no damage to the engine as far as I know but is wondering if anyone else has had this issue and how to fix talked to atomic about they suggested up the rpm limiter from 6200rpm to 6500rpm and put a softer limiter on but the closest tuner is 7 hours away as I live in a small town and I want to try all options before doing that
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Hi guys, I've just bought online a Process West 4" intake for my G6ET that I picked up a month or so ago. Now I know I need a battery relocation kit as well to go with it, I was looking into the HDI Battery Relocation Kit https://www.hybrid-power.com/product-page/hdi-fg-xr6-battery-relocation-kit, but can't find any thing on the forums/google. I'm just wondering if any holes need to be drilled etc and how easy the install is. It says on HDI website 20-30 minutes but not sure if I trust that. Cheers in advance for the reply. Zac
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I started with a NA FG XR6 & ZF 6sp, auto and decided on a power upgrade rather than a car upgrade (hoping to save $$) which has gone south dramatically! I am after any suggestions or advise that may help the following... When I collected car the mechanic proceeded to tell me that he doesn't really know what he is doing with the FG as opposed to the B series. I was told by the guy to take it to a performance tune shop and have the motor "paired". No one had any clue and now I have the following issues; Car only engages P, R, N, D and doesn't change from 1st once put in D. Secondly is the driveline upgrades (tailshaft, diff) and how important they are? Next I have an issue with ABS brakes, shuddering and skidding (maybe a bad tube?) The security feature and factory config on old engine ecu have been turned off, no key FOB or safety features active. The boost controller? is apparently not wired up, but I am unsure what to look for or where to find it. I am fairly good with the parts side of it but I have no idea on turbos and what's required in regards to maintenance and repair. I really like the FG and hope this doesn't leave a bad taste. I feel as though a new car would have been cheaper, to this point I have spent about $8k and it doesn't seem to be getting any better. PLEASE HELP! I will help where I can in return. Aprreciate your help guys!
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I have a ba series 1 xr6t that's lowered. It says im right on the capacity to tow my van at 2300kg. But it doeant feel like its pulling that well and struggles. Is this because my car is lowered and has 19 inch rims? What are the implications. I get nervous towing it.
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Hey all, long time reader first time poster. My 2011 mk1 fg xr6t has been modified and tuned. A week after the tune it started running sh*t and threw code P1358. We checked the coils, swapped them around etc and each coil works fine. The pcm stopped sending signal to the coil for cylinder 5 though. Got a new computer and car is at ford now for keys to be married to new ecu and them tune to be uploaded into new ecu. Does anyone know why the pcm can sh*t itself like that and what can be done to prevent it from happening again? Nobody can give me answers, seen it happen to another xr6t at the same time from another tuner. Thanks in advance
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Hi everyone well I already own a wrecked ba xr6t with all parts perfect except right hand door and dashboard and have a ba xr6 that needs new engine trans rear sub frame now that parts sorted. After I swap my engine rear sub frame and transmission into the standard xr6 can I just swap computers and turn it on or do I have to change all my looms as well ?? Please help
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Probably been asked before .... will an NA Xr6 tailshaft bolt to a turbo Xr6 car is a btr box and iv got an na tailshaft lined up till I buy an upgraded one from hardy spicer.
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Hey guys I own a ba xr6t 5 speed manual and my uni chip ecu decided to start a fire so I’m after a new ecu, looking for something that’s decent cheers
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Total Newby here, Odd question, but am thinking of picking up an ex work 2011 XR6T for my wife (only $8K with 100K on it). I'm just worried about how much power it has and was wondering if there is any bolt on device that can reduce power / response while she drives it but can then be switched back when I jump in. Was thinking something like a pedal max...but not sure they go down on response, only up? Any thoughts appreciated. Cheers, Steve
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Hi Guys, Been a while since I've posted but loving the car so far, retune will happen mid-year hopefully but until then I'm trying to get it up to scratch in every other way. My front end is apart as I realised one of the factory hot pipes (rubber) has perished due to oil (see:little splits/cracks hardening etc.) so a guy locally had a full factory second hand set up on gumtree so I bought the lot. Sadly he recently lost his car due to mistaken identity (jerks). Gave me a lot of good info as his BF Turbo was in pristine condition. Now I have the entire front end of the car apart/exposed, are there any items people would recommend changing/checking whilst I'm here? I've heard the Boost control solenoid usually could use a clean or check and I'm generally going to check all the hoses and bolts that I can. Key fact here is that I am still able to get very cheap parts and things that would normally be very expensive I may have the ability to still get at a good price(aftermarket). Loved that Ford still sell the duct (oversized rubber rad hose) for new @ $320 I can post pics of how apart I've got it if anyone would like me to. cheers. Nathan
