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Hey guys. I'm having harmonic driveline vibrations in my '07 Manual typhoon. But first a run down on the history of the car. Bought in 2011 with only 17 000 ks, and had stuffed diff bushes from the get go, that was fixed firstly by ford. They lasted about 5000ks and were pooched. The next diff bush endeavour was done at an independent shop and all three bushes were replaced with nolathane polyurathane (or however you spell that) bushes. Now.. this uncovered the first vibration! turns out the tailshaft was out of balance quite badly, and wasn't noticed previously due to the bushes soaking up all the vibration, and was noticed after due to the solid bushes.. (also explains why I went through the factory bushes so quickly!) So that was fixed and my car was the best its ever been. After about 10000 ks of worry free motoring I went chasing horsepower. Some blingy bits, some supporting mods, a clutch and a trip to Monsta Torque and my F6 was comfortably producing 384rwkw. At this stage I started to have wheel hop issues. A few really bad 1st gear axle tramp launches at the drags and I figured something wasn't right, shortly after that I snapped a halfshaft.. Due to being recently back from an overseas working holiday and en-employed I just chucked a high k's second hand half shaft in it so I could drive it again. whilst doing this I noticed the the diff bush housing on the k frame was tearing!! MY POOR BABY! Also noticed was the beginning of this latest vibration that I'm having. I was convinced it was something to do with the rooted cradle, or a sh*tty CV from the high k's half shaft, or the other halfshaft about to let go as well. So after getting some money together again I forked out and went silly. Coilovers all round, swaybars front and rear, IMS twin bush diff hat and a matched pair of low k's halfshafts. All done in the back shed by yours truly. I thought for sure this will solve my wheel hop and vibration problems for sure! AND IT DID! solve the wheelhop issue... but not the vibration! I was convinced it has to be tailshaft as everything else has been changed! (diff was inspected and was fine). But then when I was driving it today I noticed something. you see before hand, I thought the vibration was totally linear with ground speed, MOST prominent with downshifting, engine breaking and seemingly consistent around 100-120kph. But TODAY I noticed around 110 in 5th gear the vibration is quite loud/prominent, but shift to 4th or 6th with the same load and it almost disappears... So now I'm thinking I have a on-its-way-out T56 that's causing the suspected vibration.. Thoughts? Sorry about the Novel just trying to supply as much info as I can, I appreciate any input or suggestions! P.S If anyone's been thinking of doing the IMS diff hat, DO IT, its so worth it. Cheers.

Hi everyone, Firstly thanks for having me here. There's some great info going around on this site that is always a brilliant help. I have a BA Wagon. The diff is making hellish noises. Instead of repair I'm looking to replace and upgrade from the M78 (3.23) to a M86 LSD (3.45, Maybe even a 3.9 in time). I know from a turbo manual wagon build on https://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/94126-ba-xt-mk2-turbo-wagon-conversion/ (great piece of writing that is!) that I can replace my prop/tail shaft from the one piece to the two piece (ute) by cutting threads in the holes for the centre bearing. And then measure and cut the end piece to shorten and fit. Is there any reason why a sedan prop/tail shaft wouldn't fit? Thus not having to cut it shorter. What am I missing? UJ's not flexible enough due to it being a cradle diff? TIA, George

In the process of converting from auto to t56 manual gearbox. When putting the new manual tailshaft into the slip yoke/ rubber donut coupling/ tailshaft, it doesn’t seem line up correctly as circled red in the photo. When rotating the tailshaft the gap between the donut and slip yoke opens up but closes flush correctly again towards the top as if something is warped. Tailshaft recently rebalanced. If I bolt up everything as is right now the donut is very warped. Any clues what would cause this?

Hi everyone Sorry to start another thread. Just thought I'd write up my own as a search doesn't seem to reveal any similar topics to what I'm experiencing at the moment. My 07 BF XR6 AUTO, driven as my daily on highways constantly. It has a very cruisy life and is always babied (although with the $ it's currently stealing from me, it doesn't deserve it 😂). When travelling around and between 30-35K (and often 50-55K also, although not as violent), its almost as if it loses all drive momentarily and then suddenly engages very roughly, creating a heavy jerk throughout the car and then a grinding noise can be heard coming from the rear. Also when accelerating out of a corner, the grinding at the rear noise occurs again. The Diff Bushes; both L&R front/upper ball joints, L&R Sway Bars, both front wheel bearings and diff oil were replaced less than 5k ago and in the past couple of days, I had the transmission serviced and the driveshaft repaired and balanced. This seems to have somewhat very slightly (barely at all) helped the issue but it's still extremely noticable and uncomfortable while driving. TIA

Hey guys, Just looking for a bit of advice. My standard 06 BF Typhoon has been making some amount of noise while under load. Particularly around 2500 rpm. I took it to ford and they've said it's " an internal problem " with the tailshaft and I also need my diffs replaced. They've quoted me $6000 to get it fixed. My mate has said not to bother getting them to do it and we'll just get the parts and do it ourselves. Just looking to see if anyone has any suggestions about whether to go aftermarket and suggestions of who to go with. Think I'm going to go with Superpro for the diffs ? But unsure about the tailshaft. Any suggestions would be awesome Cheers Baz

So I've had a tailshaft centre bearing failure. I'm wondering if any of the sponsors or other companies have found a solution other than the Hardy spicer tailshafts that I've read about. I live in WA so a perth local workshop would be a preference and if anyone has a rough cost that'd be great.