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Thought I'd put up a build thread so hopefully I stay on the right track, keep motivated and do some learning/helping. Car is an 03 BA XR6t 5 spd manual and leather interior Yes I know not the best platform to start with motor and gearbox wise, but bought cheap enough with the intention to at least change to 6 spd. Purchased about a month ago and already has the following mods: Plazmaman Stage 1 Intercooler Process West Crossover Pipe Kit Battery relocation to right hand side with copper-core welding cables used. Plazmaman Sheet metal airbox with 4” K&N filter VENOM twin 2.5" Exhaust VENOM 3.5" Cat Fabricated Tig welded oil catch can with K&N filter Turbo bored out with larger flapper valve Turbosmart wastegate actuator with 10psi spring In tune Motorsport turbo oil filter installed Walbro GSS342 255lph SN95 Mustang Quickshifter with adjustable stops, stainless lever and carbon knob Custom carbon gear lever surround 19” OX Racing OX111 wheels Lowered on King Springs and Munroe dampers Nolathane Polyurethane bush kit Including diff bushes DJR Bobtail spoiler HID headlights Projector headlamp conversion Also came with an SCT xcal 3 flash tuner Body is a bit untidy and needed bigger injectors and tune. Pics from when I got it Few things I already found I needed to fix. Had a few oil leaks. First one I found from the oil return into sump. One of the bolts that holds the flange on was stripped so I put a helicoil (thread insert) in. So I left the oil in until I finished drilling and tapping the hole out, used grease on drill and tap to prevent swarf going into sump, but dropped the oil and flushed afterwards just in case. Replaced sump plug with a new one from Repco, which happens to have a 15mm head on it. WTAF??? Who the feck does that. Damaged thread. Sorry don't have after shots. Noticed PS hose leaking too. So gave everything a good degrease Wanted to change the coolant reservoir/overflow and wanted to check what spring was in the wastegate actuator. Didn't look too hard to do, and after little reading on here and another forum saw some people having a hard time with it and taking turbos and manifolds off. Anyway pulled the coolant reservoir out, removed the dump pipe, cross over pipe, oil feed and coolant supply to turbo and hose to actuator. Check out my sweet light setup! Removed the bolts for the actuator bracket, bottom one is slow only using an open end spanner. Pushed actuator back so I could see the R clipholding the clevis onto the flapper valve arm. Got my seal pick in the end of clip and pulled it out. Yes it snapped. Then squeezed the actuator out of the bay, it's tight but got it. Found it had a 10psi spring, not a 12 like I originally thought. Reinstalling just same as above but in reverse. Make sure you push actuator back as far as you can, open wastegate, and put clevis back on arm. I just used a new E clip. This is where you can check the actuator rod preload. Push the bracket forward towards the turbo and that gap should be the preload of 2mm. Bigger gap in pic as I wasn't holding it up. Bottom bolt on bracket could be tricky. I just gripped the head with long nose pliers, got it sitting in the hole, then put pressure behind the head with the pliers and got it started with the open end spanner. All back together Had to replace the vent hose to catch can as it was so hard and brittle. Have a big roll of the blue air/chemical hose so just used that. Will change to black hose and the catch can at some point. Sorry for the story. Will be updating tomorrow, I mean today/tonight. Thanks for looking... if you got this far lol