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Showing results for tags 'manual'.
Found 22 results
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Hi all, obviously there is lag.. more so in a manual. after shifting from 3rd into 4th my bov works dumps the air but feels like it takes too long to get back into the boost. While my xr8 has torque after every gear change if you’re in the right rpm range. Is this just the norm with manual and barras or could I set the bov up better so it gets back into boost quicker? 530hp manual fg xr6t
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Hey guys. I'm having harmonic driveline vibrations in my '07 Manual typhoon. But first a run down on the history of the car. Bought in 2011 with only 17 000 ks, and had stuffed diff bushes from the get go, that was fixed firstly by ford. They lasted about 5000ks and were pooched. The next diff bush endeavour was done at an independent shop and all three bushes were replaced with nolathane polyurathane (or however you spell that) bushes. Now.. this uncovered the first vibration! turns out the tailshaft was out of balance quite badly, and wasn't noticed previously due to the bushes soaking up all the vibration, and was noticed after due to the solid bushes.. (also explains why I went through the factory bushes so quickly!) So that was fixed and my car was the best its ever been. After about 10000 ks of worry free motoring I went chasing horsepower. Some blingy bits, some supporting mods, a clutch and a trip to Monsta Torque and my F6 was comfortably producing 384rwkw. At this stage I started to have wheel hop issues. A few really bad 1st gear axle tramp launches at the drags and I figured something wasn't right, shortly after that I snapped a halfshaft.. Due to being recently back from an overseas working holiday and en-employed I just chucked a high k's second hand half shaft in it so I could drive it again. whilst doing this I noticed the the diff bush housing on the k frame was tearing!! MY POOR BABY! Also noticed was the beginning of this latest vibration that I'm having. I was convinced it was something to do with the rooted cradle, or a sh*tty CV from the high k's half shaft, or the other halfshaft about to let go as well. So after getting some money together again I forked out and went silly. Coilovers all round, swaybars front and rear, IMS twin bush diff hat and a matched pair of low k's halfshafts. All done in the back shed by yours truly. I thought for sure this will solve my wheel hop and vibration problems for sure! AND IT DID! solve the wheelhop issue... but not the vibration! I was convinced it has to be tailshaft as everything else has been changed! (diff was inspected and was fine). But then when I was driving it today I noticed something. you see before hand, I thought the vibration was totally linear with ground speed, MOST prominent with downshifting, engine breaking and seemingly consistent around 100-120kph. But TODAY I noticed around 110 in 5th gear the vibration is quite loud/prominent, but shift to 4th or 6th with the same load and it almost disappears... So now I'm thinking I have a on-its-way-out T56 that's causing the suspected vibration.. Thoughts? Sorry about the Novel just trying to supply as much info as I can, I appreciate any input or suggestions! P.S If anyone's been thinking of doing the IMS diff hat, DO IT, its so worth it. Cheers.
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Hi people! Just curious since I'm aware that manual transmissions are often noisier than their automatic counterparts and this could be nothing more than a worthless concern, however I figure I should ask the more experienced in the off chance there is something wrong. I own a model of the widely-regarded lesser (normally aspirated) late model FG-X XR6 in Utility trim, paired with the somewhat beefier Tremec six speed. Ever since I purchased the car at 72,000 kilometres, what can be only described as a subtle "clacka lacka lacka" noise comes from somewhere in the ballpark of the transmission or driveline, however only at idle with the clutch engaged, and only once every sixty seconds or so. It hasn't led to any real transmission or drive-breaking problems so far so it really is probably nothing. If this could be answered I would be extremely grateful. Mine isn't the quickest car on earth obviously, but it's a fun daily driver and I love it very much. Thanks, Will
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Hey guys just wondering if anyone has an updated list of the top 10 or top 20 quickest manual xr6 turbo's / F6 Typhoon's Cheers
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Does anyone have any good methods to get the reverse light switch out of a t56 transmission? I've tried modifying a socket but the socket was just too shallow and it kept slipping too. There's also not much clearance for the spanners that I've tried. I might have to resort to jacking up the passengers side and filling from the original fill hole unless anyone has any other recommendations?
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Hey guys, I recently bought my first BF mk2 XR6t and I'm having issues with the manul transmission not going into gear easily at cold start. I'm just wondering what gearbox oil do you guys recommend using. I've done some research and found the Penrite 70w-75 seems to be a popular one instore but also noticed that Ford recommends Dexron iii. I'm kind of confused as the Dexron iii seems to be for automatic transmissions, am I missing something or is the oil compatible with both manual and auto? Cheers for the help.
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Thought I should start my build thread even if its not tuned yet - its sitting in CMS workshop waiting for Joe to get back from the US so close enough. I have an 08 FG XR6T manual ute in Nitro, had since new and only done 65xxxkm; two reasons for that, a) work is only a 10min drive away, and b) I seem to have some sort of magnet that attracts the po-po...done a couple of stints of passengering in the last few years. The day I got it I got a set of Ruff Racing R281 wheels & tyres fitted, that was about it for a while...until I had a crack at making a replacement cat back exhaust using 2.5" staino tube and some mufflers I got hold of. It worked ok but didn't have a mandrel bender so cheated and ran it straight along under the driver's side floor rather than in beside the diff...scraped on most large speed humps so annoying as hell but it was good experience, (sort of) fun to make...fabricating an exhaust using only ramps under the back wheels to get underneath is way overrated imo.. In Feb 2011 I got rid of my grader spec exhaust and picked up a turbo back xforce exhaust for a good price - 4" dump, 5" cat into twin 2.5" - and fitted it as well as a Growler CAI and Plazmaman cooler piping; then sent it into Tunehouse and got injectors (which turned out to be drilled std squirters) and xcal tube done. On their hub dyno (which tells big porkies I know) it made 345rwkw on 98, guessing would equate to anywhere between 300-315 on a 'real' dyno. The power felt great, got used to it after awhile but the clutch didn't; a few months later they fitted a Mantic heavy duty clutch, never heard of them but seems to work ok - I'm reasonably mechanically sympathetic anyway - at least until the red mist descends... Got the tune tweaked at the same time and it punched out 375rwkw, pretty high even for a hub dyno?! Later I found out it was running 19psi on race tune, but that's another story...I will post up the sheets later Six months ago the little turbo died. Wasn't sure what to do, contemplated getting another stock turbo and then selling it, but this forum changed my mind New bits: *3582 from BF with 12lb actuator and flapper upgrade by MTQ (not ported though, had a crack at that myself) *11 blade billet wheel fitted and balanced by MTQ *Bosch 1000cc injectors *Walbro 460 (or ebay copy) intank fuel pump *KPM fuel reg and wiring relay *PW stepped cooler - thanks for cash deal Kev!! *Turbo side intake by me with dirty big K&N *Plazmaman throttle body elbow *Custom battery tray - parts supplied by Stigmata / Jon Bailey - thanks again champ!!!! I fitted the cooler, intake, turbo, battery tray & wiring and throttle elbow over the last few weeks and yesterday dropped it into CMS. They will fit valve springs, the fuel pump, relay & reg, and Joe will work his magic on the tune when he gets back later this week.
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Hi all. Wondering if anyone can cofirm the differences between the tr6060 turbo and n/a 6spd gearboxes. Have read they are the same apart from first gear ratio. Was also told from the wrecker selling the na box that flywheel and clutch also differ. Thanks
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Hi all dont crucify me if its already been asked but im having issues and im stumped as to why . 2007 xr6 turbo manual bf ive recently changed water pump , done new hoses ,changed temp sensor ,thermostat and changed and flushed cooolant 2 times now . And today I even went out of my way to let the car run with the filler bottle cap off and long story short the car runs considered normal temps when the cap is off (just above quarter) and every so often spikes up and does the usual thermo fans kick in cools it down then back to normal thermo fans shut off . But when the filler cap is then placed back on the filler bottle temps spike after maybe 2-3 mins thermo fans kick in and its an endless battle to run car colder and the thermo fans never turn off as its running "hot" never gets to half way but its not normal for this car . I have no clue as to why and how its doing it any advice/help greatly appreciated.
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Hi guys, Need some help please! I have a 2007 BFmk2 FPV Tornado Ute, 6 speed manual. I had my clutch replaced over 18 months ago and since have had problems with the clutch pedal losing its pressure, its current got about 75mm of free play before it begins to engage and moves the clutch, and when I say free play I mean its basically floppy. So now I cant even get my car into gear because the pedal wont move the clutch enough. At first I though it was a slave cylinder issue but it seems to be just something out of place. I do recall hearing about an issue with a spacer needing to be put it when replacing from a standard factory clutch. Has my mechanic forgotten to do this? Has anyone experienced a similar issue?
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Hi guys has anyone ever use a bf manual ecu to in a ba ?? We can't seem to get it to work, trying to rule out weather its faulty ecu or if it's even possible?
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Hi guys wondering if a (bf typhoon manual ecu) work in a ba xr6turbo
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Guys Tossing up what to do about a tail shaft for my FG manual ute Currently running around 360rwkw on 98 but will be getting the tune finalised in the next few weeks and with an eflex tune hope to be pushing into low 400s Tailshaft is currently stock; as is the rest of the rear end, ride height all stock too. I've owned since new ('08) and give it a good flogging when the need arises, but I'm generally fairly easy on it around town Usually I make an effort to keep it all smooth as possible - ease it into gear, little bit of throttle on downshifts etc etc... basically to eliminate the amount of lash/clunk/whatever that seems to come as standard with these cars. If driven like that then it's smooth as. (True story) But giving it a few hard shifts WOT 3-4 the other night - could definitely feel it there more, CVs did not seem to like it too much Tried to do a bit of searching on here but couldn't seem to pin down any threads regarding tail shaft issues in manual utes in particular - not due to power anyway, plenty of issues from lowering Point is, power will be going up and it won't be getting any better, so I've basically decided to go ahead with an upgrade, question is, what's best option? I know CMS will supply and install upgraded trail shaft for $1550, waiting to hear back from them what brand/supplier and what they're rated to. Pricewise I think 1550 is more than fair if it's say a 1000hp rated shaft and balancing issues don't rear their head. Common complaint seemed to be was massive increase in NVH with the change from CV to uni type joints From memory this was all in auto utes or sedans or manual sedans though so not sure if/how relevant Is this likely to be more/same/less of an issue in a manual ute? Options and opinions please
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Hi guys, First time poster but have been stalking the forums for a number of months now. Recently sold my Ba falcon and have upgraded to a 2013 manual FG MkII.. I noticed yesterday a new noise in my transmission, it sounds like a very slight grind, almost like something catching. This only happens when and results in: - Car is in gear with the clutch pushed in - Car is moving forward/back. Pushing it causes this intermittent noise to start periodically - Time between noises increases the higher gear it is in. For example twice per foot in 1st, once every 2 feet in 6th - I can feel a very slight vibration with this noise through my shifter if I hold it A guy I trust with mechanical issues has told me that it most likely isn't a pressure plate or driveline issue. Any help/past experience any of you have had with anything similar to this would be greatly appreciated. Cheers
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Any thoughts? Or is the 6 Speed auto the only way to go?
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Hey guys I've converted my BA XR6 turbo form a 4 speed to a 6 speed manual and it goes great mid range 3,500rpm to high making 300rwkw. It feels VERY sluggish down low before boost hits not because of a mechanical problem or anything like that it just seams not as responsive or jumpy off the line and I'm thinking this could be dew to the STOCK BA 4 speed turbo diff gears being a 3.45 and the 6 speed being a 3.73. It wheel spins like a boss off the line or bogs down can not find an in-between (may be dew to my driving but still feels like the car is asleep down low in normal driving) Thoughts on diff gears to waken the thing up a bit or any other ideas? I've read the other threads but nothing really specific to my situation.
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Hi all, I currently have an 03 Ba XR6 5sp manual sedan and have plans on doing a turbo motor swap once I am halfway through my green P's (about 2 years a long time I know), I know the troubles of this but I would like to do something unique and as a project for me and my friends. In the meantime I would like to do 'supporting' mods over time. I am planning on getting a cat back exhaust done sometime next week only because she's a bit too quite right now . I have been looking at various other mods such as installing an LSD, sway bars, coilovers, fatter tires etc. Since I have never done anything like this before I didn't want to risk making any mistakes in the purchase of parts hence why I am posting here. LSD: I would like to know if I can fit an lsd unit from a BA XR6T? (obviously manual or will an auto fit as well?)... Suspension mods: For the suspension mods I wanted to push the coilovers a bit as I do not want to splurge out 2 grand for them at this moment. In terms of swaybars I have found some from whiteline: http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=BFK001&sq=4188 Supercheap auto also sells these however this kit seems to have everything I need (I'm not too sure what half of it is). I have also been told that doing the control arms (front and rear) would also help with handling of the car but no clue what I should get. Stores: I have no problem driving a bit to get the right parts. There are some wreckers around me if I need to go and find a wrecked car. Also if you know of any suspension workshops or stores that would do a good install of the parts I listed above for a reasonable price please let me know. As for online shopping I have no problem as long as the site doesn't look sketchy.
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I appreciate that these boxes can be a bit notchy, especially the 1st to 2nd gear change, but has anyone with these boxes experienced 2nd gear grinding? It happened maybe once or twice in my FG XR6T and was me being lazy with the clutch, but it's happened in my GT much more frequently when I'm giving it a good boot full and shifting hard 1st to 2nd. It's not as a result of me being lazy with the clutch either, as I've made a conscious effort to make sure the clutch is pressed in fully...if it was in any further it'd be through the firewall. It's been more pronounced since having a Rip Shifter fitted, but I'm told by the shop who installed the Rip shifter that it was setup correctly with the positive stops as if they weren't it would pop out of gear etc. I also had a mate drive my car to see if it was just me and same thing happened to him twice in a short drive, the car was nice and warm too so it's not just a symptom of being cold. Is this just normal for these gearboxes, or does it sound like there's something wrong? My turbo I could be mid drift at the top of first gear and slam 2nd hard without any issues or grinding, but I'm somewhat nervous about doing the same with the GT...which is disconcerting. I've also noticed that with this car once I've let the clutch out after a gear change there's a tiny bit of play in the clutch, in that I can flick it out a tiny bit further than it releases on its own by lifting my toes up underneath the pedal. It also feels a little loose at which point and creaks a little, which I'd expect with an older model, but not a brand new car with 5,000kms on it. This is my first twin plate clutch, so is this normal? Or should it pop all the way out by itself and have no more movement at which point?
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Hey guys, I have recently bought a 06 xr6 bf mk1 6sp manual I have installed a k&n air filter and had it lowered on king spring superlows it has pacemaker extractors and hi flow cat flowing thru a 2 1/2 exhaust with twin tip Now here is the problem, it is non turbo atm. I am wondering what would be the best turbo to have installed ? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated , cheers. Also looking to install boost gauge etc, so price ranges would help
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I have a 06 6 speed manual xr6 turbo. Over the past 3 months odd it has developed a huge gear lash noise at low rpm sub 1500, and is worse in the lower gears. Gearbox fluid was done probably 12 months ago. Has the usual rattle at idle which disappears with clutch pressure but I cant get rid of this noise even holding clutch pressure unless I accelerate extremely slowly. Any ideas? has anyone run a friction modifier in the oil before as well?
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I'm doing some research into upgrading my BA turbo's transmission to the 6 speed manual and I'm not sure where to start or who's reputable in the VIC south eastern suburbs. What's a rough price for the full conversion? does the diff and clutch need to be replaced as well? Any advice would be appreciated
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Hey guys, First post. My BF MKll manual has started to have a 5700 limiter in every gear. Its lightly modified with custom tunes but the limiter used to be about 6400 or there abouts. Wondering if yous would know what would be causing this? Cheers, Dave
