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Showing results for tags 'boost'.
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Hi all, obviously there is lag.. more so in a manual. after shifting from 3rd into 4th my bov works dumps the air but feels like it takes too long to get back into the boost. While my xr8 has torque after every gear change if you’re in the right rpm range. Is this just the norm with manual and barras or could I set the bov up better so it gets back into boost quicker? 530hp manual fg xr6t
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hey guys, was just wanting to ask if its risky to push more power out of my 06 bf mk1? im running 16psi on stock turbo w a flapper mod pushing 460 hp, around 217k kms on engine, but have wanting to upgrade the turbo to potentially a pulsar gtx and get an external waste gate. with the upgrades I was aiming for at least the 500 hp mark and maybe 17 or 18 psi to achieve that. is there a risk to any of this as I know mk1 have weaker internals e.g rods. if anyone can give some insight I would appreciate it. cheers :)
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I have a GU Patrol with a Barra Turbo swap. Its FG gas bottom and BF head. Got a few things done making 400rwhp running about 20psi. My issue is that when you realy put the boot into it in 2nd gear at around 3500-4000 it looses all power instantly, if you let off it kicks back in. Its backfires and makes some horrible noises when it happens. Only happens in 2nd. Already replaced plugs and coilpacks. It has to be either fuel or boost cut just dont know why its happening or how to stop it. Cheers for any help.
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Ive scored a brand new Aeroflow 7075. 8005-4004 T4 with1.15 rear My concern is its best rpm range and lag. Car was previously stock engine with nizpro springs, high mount with to4z t4 1.06, 4" dump with 2" wastegate pipe through 50mm wastegate, hdi 600x300x75 cooler, 3.5" xforce exhaust, plazmaman top plenum, seimen daka 660cc injectors. T56 manual sedan. Would start building boost at 1100rpm in top gear. 12psi by 1500rpm. No lag issues. Was running it to 6300rpm New built engine, lots of porting with large ferrea valves. New pro series plazmaman intercooler. New complete plazmaman plenum intake. Possibly will go to stage 3 crow cams also. Car is street car, would like to do some weekend street circuit fun. Not wanting to rev it harder than 6500rpm due to factory crank. Is this turbo too big for my application, will it be laggy down low in the rpm range? Feedback appreciated. -
Hey people, I have a 2007 MK2BF, everything is stock. I noticed my car lacking power and could hear a boost leak. Inspected all boost pipes, found pipe on the front of the turbo had come off. Re fitted and tightened, and test drove. Can hear turbo spooling but still has air / boost leak. Turned out my waste gate actuator was faulty. I replaced the actuator and test drove again. Now I cant hear or feel the turbo spooling, but it was before I changed the actuator. Anybody have an idea what the issue could be? Another faulty actuator? Blocked Cat? Thanks in advance
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I am writing this to let members know about a very common problem that affects the Turbo Falcons. The electronic boost solenoid gets sticky after about 10,000km. I did this maintenance on my car last Saturday night after reading about it on another forum. My car felt sluggish going onto boost. While the car still pulled like a freight train, it did not come onto power like it used to, so I thought I would try out the procedure. The difference was noticeable on the Bathurst Christmas cruise as the boost came on like it used to without the lag that I was experiencing before the maintenance. Now I have tried to write this for anyone with the right tools and a very basic mechanical knowledge. If you do not feel at ease under the bonnet, you may be best to get your friendly mechanic or mate to do it. Firstly the parts: Can of WD40 or similar (I used Nulon spray) 10 and 12mm spanner Long nose pliers 10 minutes of your time. Now this work can be done with the battery installed, but is easiest if the battery is removed. 1. Open the bonnet and locate the battery and remove it using the 12mm spanner, removing both terminals and then the battery clamp. The arrow is pointing to where the boost solenoid is located 2. With the battery removed, locate the boost solenoid pic has a circle around it 3. You can either grab the hose with the long nose pliers or undo the 10mm bolt to make removing the hose easier. Once you have removed the solenoid, remove the top black hose adjacent to the plug with the long nose pliers. It is important that you do this carefully and pull the hose straight off, do not wiggle it off or you could break the plastic tube. The hose can be grabbed above the metal clamp and pulled straight off with a little force. Once the hose is removed, spray a liberal amount of lubricant (WD40) into the plastic tube and also up the rubber hose. Reverse the whole procedure and go for a drive. You should notice a significant improvement in the way your car comes on boost. This should be done every 10,000km for optimal results
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Hi there needing some knowledge and advice, I've got a 2003 ford ba xr6 turbo auto. I've owned it for around 2 and a half years now and it's always had problems, biggest one is when you put your foot down and hold boost for more than 3 or for seconds it starts to shudder really bad and go into like a limp or safety mode and wants to conk out, only way to stop it doing it is to feather the accelerator numerous times then goes back to normal. No engine lights come up or anything of that sort. I had the spark plugs and Coils changed when I first got it, changed the wastegate, that fixed it for a coupe days then went back to sh*t, changed the wastegate solenoid came good for a few days then went to sh*t again, it started popping and backfiring and over boosting so I changed both map sensors helped it a fair amount but still pops and misses under heavy load and goes into that safety mode again when I hold boost. Really need help and advice on what It could be. Maybe the computer needs a tune or something? Maybe the wastegate flapper isn't opening fully.? It's all stock standard besides a rear muffler delete.. If anyone can help it'd be much appreciated
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So basiclly what I want to be able to do is pop 3rd gear from a standing start, but obviously id have to sit it on the limiter for a while for the boost to build up and I cant stand that lol it can spin 3rd when moving I just have to floor it... wait for boost to build up and pop the clutch and what do ya no it spins! so I want to know if anyone knows anything about putting 2 steps on xr6t's...like where to get one... how to install etc etc or if there is anything else that's on the market that will allow me to set my revs while my clutch is pushed in then when I let go it reverts back to its normal limiter. any help at all would be greatly appreciatited. cheers
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I have a 2008 fg xr6 turbo at the dyno tuners however have come across an issue they or other dyno tuners havent seen before. The car is going to 17psi on the dyno However any more psi over 17 and the car loses communication and dies on the dyno and launches forward we are trying to achieve 20+ psi, has anybody else come across this issue? Any help would be appreciated. Thankyou
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I have a 2008 fg xr6 turbo at the dyno tuners however have come across an issue they or other dyno tuners havent seen before. The car is going to 17psi on the dyno However any more psi over 17 and the car loses communication and dies on the dyno and launches forward we are trying to achieve 20+ psi, has anybody else come across this issue? Any help would be appreciated. Thankyou
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Hey guy, I have a 07 bf xr6t auto stock apart from hotside piping, cooler and tune from previous owner. I recently replaced the rubber joiner on throttle body with silicone hose that stopped boost leak and revs issue. I now however have what seems like an intermittent boost leak from turbo side. Still holds boost but seems to lag heaps down low and I can hear air gushing out. It will only last about 5-10 minutes after start up and then comes good and drives fine. Turn the car off for 10 minutes then start back up I get same issue again which then goes away within a few minutes. Ive checked all piping, vac lines, clamps and anything that could be loose, everything seems to be sweet. Any help appreciated. Cheers!
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Hi there needing some knowledge and advice, I've got a 2003 ford ba xr6 turbo auto. I've owned it for around 2 and a half years now and it's always had problems, biggest one is when you put your foot down and hold boost for more than 3 or for seconds it starts to shudder really bad and go into like a limp or safety mode and wants to conk out, only way to stop it doing it is to feather the accelerator numerous times then goes back to normal. No engine lights come up or anything of that sort. I had the spark plugs and Coils changed when I first got it, changed the wastegate, that fixed it for a coupe days then went back to sh*t, changed the wastegate solenoid came good for a few days then went to sh*t again, it started popping and backfiring and over boosting so I changed both map sensors helped it a fair amount but still pops and misses under heavy load and goes into that safety mode again when I hold boost. Really need help and advice on what It could be. Maybe the computer needs a tune or something? Maybe the wastegate flapper isn't opening fully.? It's all stock standard besides a rear muffler delete.. If anyone can help it'd be much appreciated
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Ok I’ve read page after page after page.... heres where it starts.... bought a ba xr6 turbo Automatic and it came with a x3 flash device that has custom tunes, base 4-5 psi - 8psi - 10psi. Car drives great no weird noises or anything of the like. The problem I’m having is to do with a overboost/limiter issue. This is the 10psi tune. Car accelerates great but once it hits the 10psi mark it either goes to 12psi or it hits 9-10 and it’s like a rev limit and the exhaust makes an almost ‘flame’ sound? And the boost gauge flickers up and down 1psi. Mostly this happens with WOT. Especially does it when just in Drive and going WOT, not so bad in sport mode because I can shift before it gets to the almost misfire stage and goes weird. Most times regardless of in drive or sports mode it’s around 4000rpm. Sometimes though in drive and sports mode it will rev out and hit boost perfectly and have no issues but it’s very short lived and then it’s back to ‘missing’ 2 minutes later. Now when I put it back to stock it hits 5 psi steady as can be at WOT but as it hits 5000-5500rpm it makes the same weird flame limiter noise. Heres what I’ve tried. •New plugs gapped to 7.5 •New boost control solenoid •Clean throttle body •Tighten all hoses that I can access •Run turbo hose straight to wastegate (hits 5-6psi and goes great •Disconnect battery for 10 minutes and then drive WOT New coil packs will be here by the end of the week as there about the last thing I can think of that I can do myself, there still originals and car has done 170,000ks. So if anyone can help me that would be AWESOME! I’ve read so many threads that seem to be my problem and they either never come back with the solution or I’ve tried what they’ve done to no avail.
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Hey Guys, I've recently come across a problem with having no boost. Gauge says I have good VAC but when I put my foot down it hits 0 on the gauge and stays there. When this is happening all that can be heard is an air rushing noise. I was wondering if anyone else has had similar problems? and where the best place to start would be? Cheers
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G'day guys, Im relatively new to this forum to which I have also just purchased a FG Mk1 XR6T Ute. I'm wanting to learn how to mod my car and do different things, and work out what aftermarket parts my ute has (which I will ask in the appropriate sections). What I wanted to ask was, has anyone come up with some creative locations in putting different gauges within a ute or sedan (preferably a FG). If anyone has any pics and would like to post them in this thread, that would be greatly appreciated. The only reason I am wanting to put gauges in is the fact the last person who owned the ute has done some mods, and the mods are having an effect with the boost allowing it to spike quiet often. Cheers, Ethan
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Hi there peeps, Recently got me an F6 and I've only just started to open her up and it sits around .65 - .70 bar of boost at WOT. Is this normal? I've tighten up all the hose clamps. She's bone stock only thing I've got on is the Herrod CAI. Could the plugs have a role? Thanks
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So my 2003 ba mk1 turbs spools up and pulls well till about 4-4500 grand than feels as if it hits a wall drops boost n barely runs (like an ecotec after its eco boost) starts jumping around an stalling but if I go nutreul and up revs comes good again n stop carrying on (like cammed LS) to my knowledge id say fuel issue starving for it but its pure stock so nothing is under powered at all.... gonna start fuel filter and hope its a cheap and easy fix (like charlie sheen) an praying to lord jesus that's its not the pump cause "ain't nobody got time for that" just curious if anyone else has had this issue if so what was it and can you remember prices
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Have a pretty stock BA xr6t, has xr8 pod style filter, hi flow cat and 2 1/2 inch exhaust. I bought a flash tuner with a 11 psi tune on it. Is this too much boost for stock internals? If so could I just regulate the boost down to say 8-9psi with a boost controller? If not what PSI should I ask for in a custom tune? Thanks for the help! Chris H.
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Hi guys. Got a BFII turbo ZF 6spd with 140xxx km, running 60lb dekas and an 11 psi tune. All else it stock. Got a dyno run to see how it is all going, and it came back on the low side. 227 at the rears. The readout showed the boost hitting 11psi and instantly dropping in linear fashion until redline where it reads roughly 7psi or thereabouts. For further testing a mate and I hooked up a boost gauge, which affirmed what the dyno run told us. 11psi down to 7psi over the rev range. What we found out furthermore, is on gearshift the boost returns to 11psi and drops again at higher rpm. So if you ran through the gears on the dyno the boost graph would look like a mountain range. I called the dyno operator up, and he seemed to think either the stock dump and cat are too small (tried to sell me his 4 inch dump and high flow cat for a grand), or the stock actuator is worn out and opening under the pressure. Does this sound about right to you learned scholars? From what I have read thus far from others experiences on here, I am thinking actuator. Lastly- is 11-12 psi too much for the stock flapper to control? Thanks for your time
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ive got a 2005 ba that evertime I put my foot down it will boost but only until 3000rpm then it feels like its not getting enough fuel....... just wondering if anyone could help me out??
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Hey Guys, - just interested in all your experiences / comments on the following: I have a 2013 mk2 FG XR6 TURBO UTE with Luxury Pack (Black of course ) Didn't exactly have and cash to spare on it, so have done minimal mods. First thing I did was a Herrod performance airbox. Gain was minimal, most change in the noise. Next thing I did was remove the restrictive ring after the cat. Again minimal gain, no difference in noise. Decided to go for a flash tune, even through I was sure I would never do it until I ran out of warranty - I ended up getting a generic tune from Intune Motorsports in Sydney sent down to me preloaded into a device paired to my car. After the 14psi tune was loaded up successfully, car is much better. Has heaps more power down low speeds - at 0-100 especially. This tune also removes the pop on change (its a ZF), which I did like, however it now lurches fwd on change instead of pausing, so this is a plus for pace. (Also great for power skids, as on a cold morning, you can nail it, wheel spin through first, which is intensified on the change and this goes for a good amount of time through second... just something about hanging it out in a straight line without the brakes.. Once I get up to midway through 3rd... full throttle, it sounds quite rough... still a consistent motor note, just a vibrating kinda roughness through the whole car - I have no idea wha is causing this?? Perhaps running out of injectors? - I know custom tune is the way to go but I wont be doing that for quite some time. Has anyone else experienced this?? On the exhaust, I hate loud cars when just cruising around, so haven't touched it yet... I might do the cat one day... just hafta see.... because Utes sound crap stock... the sedans are way better... guess its just the shorter/single pipe?...but its a no comparison. In the way of drags... main story is with my mates BF XR6 TURBO SEDAN... has full exhaust, injectors, custom tune etc... 297rwkw.... I gave him a good run.... pulled ahead off the mark... and continued to crawl slowly away the whole way to 180kmph - on a private strip. So not too sure what mine would have... maybe around 300?... seems weird, as dyno's all vary, but I dont think mine has a less as 250rwk... which some people claim are the figures after just a flash tune and intake. Glad of all your comments / ideas for what I should do! O and also I have 4 pot brembo's being fitted at the moment... needing to use 17mm spacers to clear the 19 inch luxury wheels. Cheers.
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Hi all, I have a BF that is discharging the turbo at around 4000rpm under full throttle. This problem started intermittently, but now is permanent. Still good all the way under half to three quarter throttle. I've checked all intake, outlet pipes, clamps, bov, by passed the boost e sensor, changed the (new) actuator, re-flashed too. Thinking maybe it's the waste gate or fuel pump lagging as it is standard. Has anyone experienced this or can think of anything else to check?
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Hello, I need some help if anyone cares to give any info on my turbo problem. I have a BA XR6 turbo ute mk2 that has an intercooler, intake pipework, 3.5ëxhaust. I fitted new 60lb deka injectors and loaded my bpracing X3 60lb 11psi tune today (I know using these tunes can be like playing russian roulette and had planned on not driving it until I get it dyno tuned but I just went for a zip down the road).The car idled fine and drove well unti I hit WOT the turbo made an uneven whooshing noise and then made what sounded like a mega blow off valve noise(not metallic), after the noise I could hear the turbo spooling up but it also made a sound like the boost was escaping and the cars performance is that of an N/A vehicle. I will look tomorrow at the turbo and piping but it's too dark now was just wondering if anyone has experienced this problem.
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Gday all new member here. bought a saas guage pod and boost guage. no problems with wiring or pressure hose. not sure how to secure guage properly with supplied bracket. any suggestions?
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Hey guys.. Started a couple weeks ago, If I put my foot down in any gear and boost it, I.e. from the lights in first gear to 4000rpm, then back off or change to second and keep going, either way soon as I back off, the engine shudders and revs fluctuate quite a bit, the engine almost stalls > I've cleaned out throttle body > air intakes > plugs are still good > always run 98 > let the engine warm up before pushing it > my mechanic gave the car a look over after changing the rear diff bush and said car looks good Any ideas? Anyone have experienced similar issues? Cheers
