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Showing results for tags 'actuator'.
Found 6 results
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Hi Dudes This is my first post on the forum and it seems that I am having an over boost issue and I want to sort it out. So I've got a bf xr6 turbo and after some investigation it turns out it has a turbosmart iwg 75 and seems to want to run around 13 psi. This is setup is run via bypassing the factory solenoid so my plan is to take the wastegate Actuator off and see if I can run a lighter pound spring maybe 5 or 7 and then install a turbosmart boost controller tee for the near future with the plans to run 10 psi So should 1. Take it off with the turbo still on the car 2. Take the turbo and replace the gasket 3. Buy a holden
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Just before anyone jumps at this post, I have seen the pinned thread on the actuator. I read it and I had believed my problem was with it, and I have ordered a new plastic gear spinning piece that snaps. But today the symptoms have changed. Originally I went to lock my car door at night with the remote button and I heard a weird buzzing come from the passenger door. I went over and lifted the handle and presto the door was unlocked and open. I closed it and tried to lock it again, and the driver door locked perfectly, but the passenger door just made the weird buzzing sound and still you could open it from the outside. I figured if I can hear it buzzing that tells me I am getting power, but something is not moving in order to turn the locking mechanism. Today though, I drove my ute to the gym and when I pushed the lock button, to lock just the driver door, it made the usual buzz noise from the passenger side, but this time the driver door instantly unlocked itself and then proceeded to beep at me a few times. I tried two more times and like clock work it spat the same result at me, with interior light staying on. Can anyone break this down for me, and tell me if it means anything different seeing the ute now constantly thinks the passenger door is open, and the fact that now the driver door refuses to lock as well, when it was locking fine before ?
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Hi guys. Got a BFII turbo ZF 6spd with 140xxx km, running 60lb dekas and an 11 psi tune. All else it stock. Got a dyno run to see how it is all going, and it came back on the low side. 227 at the rears. The readout showed the boost hitting 11psi and instantly dropping in linear fashion until redline where it reads roughly 7psi or thereabouts. For further testing a mate and I hooked up a boost gauge, which affirmed what the dyno run told us. 11psi down to 7psi over the rev range. What we found out furthermore, is on gearshift the boost returns to 11psi and drops again at higher rpm. So if you ran through the gears on the dyno the boost graph would look like a mountain range. I called the dyno operator up, and he seemed to think either the stock dump and cat are too small (tried to sell me his 4 inch dump and high flow cat for a grand), or the stock actuator is worn out and opening under the pressure. Does this sound about right to you learned scholars? From what I have read thus far from others experiences on here, I am thinking actuator. Lastly- is 11-12 psi too much for the stock flapper to control? Thanks for your time
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Hi All, My 03 4 spd auto ba xr6t is having an issue on startup. When started (generally on cold start) the revs go high which I assume is natural for a tuned xr6t but then stay high for like 15-20 seconds sometimes more, and if I go to put it into any other gear, the engine light comes on and the car will auto stall. It has a wog cooler, upgraded valve springs, 42lb deka injectors, rebuilt auto, cold air intake and tuned to 280rwkw. The following codes have come up on a test: P0171 - System too lean P0238 - Lack of HO2s - 11 Switches indicates lean (B1, S1) P2105 - Throttle actuator control system - forced engine shutdown (assuming when I try to put into gear when revs are so high at startup) P2110 - Throtle actuator control system - forced limited RPM. I have also noticed under WOT I feel the boost having gaps, I can even hear the induction gaps from the CAI... Can anyone give me their 2 cents as I am totally lost at the moment. Absolutely any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, -
Hi guys, this is the first time I've started a topic on this forum so forgive me if my forum etiquette is out of whack! I am in need of some information and recommendations with regards to a flapper mod on my BA MK2 XR6 Turbo. I've been quoted $1,000 to have the flapper mod done by Xtreme Ford Tuning in Perth. I've had all my work done by these guys and although quite pricey, I'm very happy with the results. (currently running a little under 320rwkw with 4" dump and 3.5" single, ID1000 injectors, fuel pump, 12lb actuator, bolt on cooler, growler, valve springs, and a few other little bits and pieces). I need the flapper done because with the current tune from last week (tune needed after putting on new exhaust) the car is over boosting. I have read around and some people have suggested that to save money, it is easier to put on an external gate instead on the flapper mod. This I'm not too keen on as I'm planning on buying an under battery cooler kit later on down the track and would require unnecessary mucking around. Doing the mod myself is also out of the question as my mechanical ability does not extend this far. Basically what im wanting to know is, is this worth $1000? Will I need a retune after doing the mod? Is an external gate a viable option? Should I be expecting any power gain from this? Any help or opinions gratefully taken on board. Matt
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hey there abit confused with what mods I need done on the turbo? I understand it has an internal wastegate, what needs to be done to get an external wastegate done? does the turbo need to be bored out for an exhaust? and the actuator whats the go with all 3 im abit confused atm.. looking at a 4inch dump to a 3inch system x force and love the sound of external gate? please open to suggestions and help!
