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02 ba turbo ute in limp mode Parked up ute put in new injectors and fuel pump. Went to tuner ute was in limp mode was fine before installing the items. In process if changing fuel pump broke a abs wire and soldered back together. Auto elec said abs is all reading right. car will go up to 110kph stays in 3rd no speedo all prnd flashing. has Canbus fault on scanner and sometimes speed sensor have Replaced abs pump,tried a engine ecu (only plugged in not programmed to start) replaced fusebox. Check wiring. Reset code on gearbox. Cleaned gearbox wiring. please help this has been a pain for months and no one can find the issue

Hey lads, Im about to give my ute some love, wanting to do a suspension upgrade. Currently have Stock shock and springs up front, and some Monroe GTs in the rear. All stock height. Questions I have are: - Shocks, leaning towards KYBs all round, hear good things about them, but is the jump to a bilstein / koni / shockworks truely worth the xtra $$$ for a daily? pretty steep for them all round 🤕 - Springs, thinking SSL but im super worried about scraping as my dump is farken low (4 inch xforce) maybe SL? not really mad about the stock front height just dont want it to look dumb lowered at the rear and look like im doing a wheelie. Gunna just reset the rears I reckon Also worth doing the bushes on the rear? its got 200k clicks now, no noises or anything just preventative. Any feedback would be sweet, cheers

Hey guys. I know this is an absolute long shot. but, many a moon ago, (2010-2012, somewhere around that time) my father sold his beloved XR6 Turbo BA ute. And I'm trying to find out what happened to it. Rumour has it, it ended up in Sydney, but I'm not totally sure. It was sold in Qld. Unfortunately, all I have of that ute are some EXTREMELY low quality photos, I'm talking potato spec photos. The 4 photos I have left: Heres a quick block of info on the car. It was a fully built BA. Fully done suspension, 900kw at the wheels, 1600nm. It was an auto, but it absolutely raped gearboxes, I'm talking 5000-10000 km if you were lucky. So whoever bought it would have had all the fun in the world changing boxes. It had an alloy flatbed, and it had this blue carpet stuff attached to the flat bed. I also distinctly remember it having a Bob Jane T-marts sticker on the back window, along side one that said "Sucks to be you." I'm just trying to find out what happened to the damned thing. It's always made me wonder, and it just hit me this morning that I should go to the forums, and see if anyone happened to buy the vehicle, or know someone who did, or where it went. Anything could have happened to it. It may have been written off and sent into a tree for all I know. The car introduced me to high horsepower fun, so I just want to take a trip down memory lane. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks

Hello ute gurus Apologies for the long post but I figure it's best to be thorough. I have a rear knocking noise coming out of my FG II XR6 Turbo Ute, 6spd Manual, 90,000ks. When I'm just slipping the clutch out and using light revs to get it going it will go knock in the ***, mostly from the left, but sometimes knock knock on both sides. This also happens when going starting off a turn. Much worse on an incline. Never happens in reverse. If I give it more revs and slip the clutch more it seems to disappear or its not as evident. Also when the car is cold it hardly make the sound. Like if I warm the car up in the driveway and head out it will hardly make it but once everything is warm it will. Sounds clunky like someone is hitting the axle with a bit of wood. Also the odd clunk when changing from 1st to second. It has tramped sometimes, only in the wet, but I try to avoid it. Both tyres do kick so the LSD is working as it should. I drive it like an old bloke to be honest. Other noises I've noticed is a kind of wobbling sound coming from the middle of the car between 20-40 kph but goes away after that speed. Also a little diff whine between 80-110. I've done all the rear suspension, koni reds, superpro shackles bushes + front leaf bushes + pads. Triple checked everything is tight back there suspension wise. Also put in Penrite 80/140 and lsd additive a couple months ago. When I first changed the oil it didn't make any whining noises but on advice from a driveline specialist in Geelong, they recommended trying some additive to see if it will quieten down the knock. Seems to have caused it to whine. Is having too much additive a thing? I've taken it to Pedders to have the safety check and all they could see is that the shackles look a little cocked, slightly twisted but shouldn't cause the knock. They said the centre bearing is slightly sagging which could be causing the wobbling sound but its not torn or flogged which wouldn't knock. Also mentioned that the knock could come from the little insulators being buggered in the leafs but I can't replicate the sound by bouncing on the ute tray or inside the tub. The car also does not knock or clunk when going over speed humps or rough road. This has got me thinking it's something in the driveline. I left it with the same driveline mob for the day to have a good look over it. They test drove it and could easily identify the noise and also the whine. They said the whine is a standard feature in the fg's. They had it on the hoist and checked everything thoroughly and couldn't replicate the clunk/knock. Mentioned the CVs and centre bearing were fine, although is has some "sag" and perhaps the slightest rip at the top but they said not to bother replacing yet. I feel like there needs to be load on the driveline to replicate it. Like remove the spare and lay on a creeper under the car and get someone to slowly creep forward to make the noise? It's got me stumped what it is. I know there have been tonnes and tonnes of warranty claims on diffs from BA-FG, a lot in FG. I'm not getting any vibrations or clunks at higher speeds. I get the odd clunk when changing gears, after a good run with the car and everything is warm but its mainly at take off. Feels like there is driveline slack but could just be because its a manual. I read a post here from a guy where the front leaf bush was over tightened and caused the bolt hole in the chassis to chew out, making it oval shaped and making it move. His symptoms are similar to mine but I can't contact him as he is inactive. Still, I can't replicate the sound via bouncing on the rear. Had another look under the car today and could tighten the u bolts a little but I was hanging off em with a breaker. The cv seemed fine on the diff. I started a topic on ff.com.au and got some good replies. One good bloke mentioned the spring pack bolt might be too long not allowing the u bolts to clamp down properly. Haven't had them out to look yet. Wondering if anyone here has had a similar issue and what did you do to fix it? Or a recommendation of a good workshop/specialist to check it out in Geelong? Cheers

Diff on my FG turbo ute is on the way out and local mechanic recommended that if I want the diff built up to try some out of town mobs rather than the local transmission place. Want to go with a TrueTrac centre, weld the diff tubes and stronger axles might even be a good idea while I'm at it? Ive got 300rwkw, tramp rods and carry an extra half ton load every day. So who are some diff/driveline companies I could contact for a quote that would do an exchange? Send me a built rear end, I'd swap it locally and send my old one back to them. I'm in rural nsw, about 6hrs from Sydney & 5hrs from Melbourne.

So boys have a ba manual Ute welded my diff a couple of weeks ago for some extra fun and I keep snapping the bolt that holds the leafs together, has anyone had this problem and found a real solution?? I’ve tried putting high tensile m8 bolts in but because the head of the bolts are so short the diff doesn’t have a comfy place to sit so the diff just slides back and forth. I’ve also tried putting a couple of nuts either sids of the leaf to stack it up a bit but I just bent and snapped them in seconds. Thanks

My 04' BA ute used to be the pride of chiptorque on the gold coast, and has been around for a long time by 4 different owners. I managed to track down the owners and get an idea of the history. I bought the car making 743rwhp (554rwkw) on E85, and 606rwhp (452rwkw) on pump98, but was in very sad shape. Maintenance had been neglected, needed ball joints, tyres, rackends, oil leak repairs, misfiring badly, sh*t matt black territory rims, 2 layers of tint darker than 5%, etc etc The car was running a Direct Clutch twin plate button, great clutch, but was taking its toll on me around town (car accident injuries).. After replacing the concentric slave, and master cylinder twice I had enough, and converted it to auto. After the conversion, took it out to Willowbank Raceway and promptly melted number 5 piston, which is found out through the previous owners, this is the 3rd time (still ran 11.3 on low boost, on 5 cylinders, backing off just after half track). Time for another rebuild. Going through the older dyno sheets, I found that the AFR's were as lean as 13.6:1 with thanks to 80lb injectors maxed out. ENGINE (*NEWLY PURCHASED) Nizpro crank girdle ARP bolts throughout ARP head studs Billet oil pump gears Hardened backing plate *JE custom forged pistons *JE chromoly rings SCAT rods *Powerbond Race Balancer *Atomic Simplex timing chain *Atomic stage 4.5 cams *Atomic valve springs *Atomic Ti retainers *Paul Gilbert ported and polished race head with oversized valves *Nizpro Plenum *2200cc Bosch Motorsport Injectors *Turbosmart FPR1200 *Plazmaman fuel rail Garrett T04Z, A/R1.15 84mm in / 66.7mm ex Nizpro stainless manifold *Turbosmart 50mm progate 4" defilipo exhaust Nizpro Stage 2 Intercooler kit Turbosmart BOV *Haltech Elite 2500 w/ flex sensor *Innovate wideband AFR meter w/ data log and linked to haltech for auto tune *FG coils DRIVELINE Precise Automatic 1500hp reverse pattern TH400 w/ transbrake Torque Power Bellhousing Converter Shop 3500rpm stall Hardy Spicer tailshaft 2.73 M86 diff that has suprising put up with the abuse (soon to have a TruTrac centre, to make do while I put pennies away for the 9" conversion) TCI outlaw shifter THE REST Koni adjustables all round Low King spring front, Reset leafs rear Territory front rotors 18x11 & 18x8 Work Emotion rims, 275/40 & 245/45 Federal RSR -- 275/40/17 et street on BF XR6 rims -- 275/65/15 et street pro on ProStar 15x10 5.5" BS F6 Typhoon frp front bar Genuine hardlid 35% tint FPV FG rocker cover

kiaora ford folk! this week I've recycled one of the work utes into a different work ute - recovery ute for picking up large ride-on lawn mowers, working @ Stihl Shop - original delivery truck is AU cab/chassis XL trim, with oversize flat deck. cab&chassis are now extensively rusty so its been retired from use - black ute is BF2 XR6 styleside - black ute now has the flat cargo deck from the AU swapped over to it, job done 4 days ago. - both utes are fully factory trim, even wheels and tyres - I dream big, but my boss's budget is not as big, sadly. the problem I need help with, is related to rear wheel clearance/vertical travel. it needs to carry up to 650kg, but theres only about 2'' travel before it would hit the deck timber thanks to the factory lowering kit on the XR models. it also has some side-side travel when spirited cornering, the tyre sidewalls have been leaving rubber on the framework of the flatdeck. (utes done 180k km) im guessing this would be caused by the bushes being worn but idk, im just a chainsaw mechanic lol so considering a solution from these options: -load assist airbags @ $750 nzd + roadworthy certification $$$???? (the boss wont wanna spend this kinda money though lol) -wheel tubs for deck (not ideal would get in the way of work duty with the pickup+delivery of large commercial lawn mowers (Jim's mowing grade of commercial, 60'' max mowing deck size) -swap over the standard height AU ute's suspension, front and rear -combine the AU's 5 leaf setup over into the BF's 4 leaf setup, have them reset by local leaf-professionals so yeah, any advice would be greatly appreciated, trying my hardest to just work with what I got available and not have to source parts etc p.s its a family business, the boss is my dad haha. -I cant figure out how to attach photos, but they're on my instagram.com/niki6dt

I've seen a few FG's running around that have had an FGX front end conversion done. Is it literally a straight swap over being that they are relatively the same platform? I know it would probably be easier to just buy an fgx but the turbo utes are holding their value. Wanting to know if I could just get a wrecked fgx and do a straight swap pretty much. Cheers Legends

Hey was just wondering what options there are out there for fg ute roller lids

Just after some reviews/opinions on the Blueys ute world roller lids wondering if they leak or rust and what's the quality like Thankyou

Specifically for my FG Turbo turbo ute if someone would be kind enough to measure for me! But if people have specs for other models this post can serve as a repository. Wheel center to guard measurements plus maybe bump-stop to axle measurements for us tray back utes. Been playing with my new Shockworks coilovers (loving them btw!) but my new worksite involves 6 speed humps that I'm scraping bumper & about 1m of sides on, so I've gotta jack the ute back up & I'm wondering what standard ride height actually is since I've always been overweight.

So I've just installed mirrors with indicators on My Fg 50th anniversary ute. I really wanted that 50th fender badge and thought the mirror indicators looked good too. None of the utes have indicator mirrors simply because there are no wiring looms for the utes that would allow them to just plug in. I'm not sure which if any of the models of sedan are plug-n-play. A pair of aftermarket indicator mirrors from Sydney Special Vehicles is around $300 from their ebay site. If you want to use Genuine ford mirrors you need to make sure you get ones WITHOUT the mirror memory function. The S S V ones seemed a bit thinner & plasticier than the genuine ones. Before: First take the door panel off. There's a write up for that somewhere round here. Then unplug the mirror loom Snip the cable tie holding the wiring Undo the 3 Torx screws holding the mirror. If you don't have these bits I'd suggest buying a set of them as they're all through this car. Hold the mirror as you undo the last screw so you don't drop it. Put your new mirrors on, running the wiring back through the hole and do the screws back up. The S S V mirrors have the same factory Ute loom plug so it'll go straight in, plus 2 loose wires for the indicator. Now running the indicator wires there's 2 ways. Either push the wires through the factory grommet snake thingy, (I struggled when I ran my speaker wires) and then through the interior and back out to into the quarter panel. OR as I did, run some small corrugated tubing out the bottom of the grommet and up into the quarter panel through the door jamb, Much easier & iv had no issues with it. The hardest part is trying to get the grommet off its frame. To remove the factory indicators push them down bringing the top out. Then lift them up bringing the bottom out. Unplug the loom from the indicator. I then coiled the 2 indicator mirror wires together by sticking them in a drill to make them easier to rout & deal with. Then feed them through the corrugated tubing and flail them around in the direction of the indicators until you can feed them out through the factory indicator hole. Now what I did was strip back some sheathing from both + & - wires and soldered in the new wires. (sorry no pics) You could also cut the old plug clean off if you wanted. I then used some liquid electrical tape being it such an awkward spot then also wrapped it up in electrical tape. Take this opportunity to test the indicator is working before you put it all back together. The Bulbs that came with the mirror seemed to be a bit duller & different shade of orange, so I put the factory bulbs in the mirror. It doesnt matter about + &- orientation unless your using led globes, then just plug the globe in the other way. I bought the 50th anniversary badges straight from ford as I couldn't be bothered waiting to find some from a wrecker. It took me a bit to convince the Potato in the Parts department that the badges existed and had to basically tell him how find them in his own software.The end of the factory wiring loom plugs into the back of the badge so it's not left dangling around in the fender. You could also use FPV, G6E or G6E turbo badges. Apply using the double sided tape. Coil the excess wiring into a ball in the door, put it all back together & your done! (And why does typing S S V without spaces turn into Bogan special ?)

Hi guys, Need some help please! I have a 2007 BFmk2 FPV Tornado Ute, 6 speed manual. I had my clutch replaced over 18 months ago and since have had problems with the clutch pedal losing its pressure, its current got about 75mm of free play before it begins to engage and moves the clutch, and when I say free play I mean its basically floppy. So now I cant even get my car into gear because the pedal wont move the clutch enough. At first I though it was a slave cylinder issue but it seems to be just something out of place. I do recall hearing about an issue with a spacer needing to be put it when replacing from a standard factory clutch. Has my mechanic forgotten to do this? Has anyone experienced a similar issue?

Hey! Looking at getting some new rims for my white F6 ute could you help me identify these ones shown in the pic below?? these look mint! Cheers!

Decided to do a build thread so I have all my mods documented in one place. BF2 - 2007 - #0166 - Lightning Strike Silver - Manual - 80,000km - Fully optioned - Est 350rwkw (getting tuned this week) I bought this ute in January 2013. I found it on carsales, it was up in North Sydney.The guy I bought it from was the original owner and still had all the original documents and receipts from Ford which was nice. I did see a total figure of $67,000 when he bought it new. Geeez. lot of money for a ute. I payed 22k for it. It was in really good condition cosmetically. 64,000km on the clock. Completely bone stock. Exactly what I wanted. The only issue it had was the hard lid didn't really fit properly which I came to learn was a problem with the factory lids. I ended up fixing it thought --> http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/89197-babf-factory-hardlid-fitment-issues-my-solution/ The turbo gave up the ghost after a few months of abuse but this was due to lack of maintenance by the previous owner and the standard oil feed line blocking. I replaced the core, installed an earls feed line with filter & also changed the exhaust housing while it was out to a modified one (ported, wastegate flap) I've been collecting mods over the past year or so. As tempting as it was to go get some injectors, a cat and a tune, I patiently waited as I decided early on the power figure I ultimately wanted, do it right the first time. I had a bad bike accident a few months back so while I'm not able to ride, I decided to just buy the remaining mods I need and get the car going like I always wanted. 1. I did my own battery relocation early on in the piece in preparation for a turbo side intake. Was pretty cheap to do. I mounted a battery box to the floor behind the drivers seat. Ran the +positive cable under the right side trim/scuff guards and up through the firewall where the clutch master is. This was an easy mod. 2. Decided to get a HID conversion kit. Just a cheap flebay one but it does the job and came with 2 years warranty. Not a bad kit considering the price. My last car had zenons, they are leaps and bounds ahead of the standard H4's Right side ballast & controller. Mounted to the battery tray. May as well use it for something. Left side ballast. Standard airbox wont be going back in. They are hectic bright. Need to point them down slightly (ask pixy angel) 3. Brakes. Still rocking the original rotors and the fronts are pretty farked. Replaced with a set of DBA T3 Clubspec slotted rotors. Brembo Pads had been replaced by the previous owner just before I bought the car so I resurfaced them and re installed.

G'day guys, Im relatively new to this forum to which I have also just purchased a FG Mk1 XR6T Ute. I'm wanting to learn how to mod my car and do different things, and work out what aftermarket parts my ute has (which I will ask in the appropriate sections). What I wanted to ask was, has anyone come up with some creative locations in putting different gauges within a ute or sedan (preferably a FG). If anyone has any pics and would like to post them in this thread, that would be greatly appreciated. The only reason I am wanting to put gauges in is the fact the last person who owned the ute has done some mods, and the mods are having an effect with the boost allowing it to spike quiet often. Cheers, Ethan

So I'm Pimping out the rear section of my twin exhaust from the axle back by sending it to either side of the ute. Q: As I'm removing the rear muffler, what/how many mufflers should I use to make it quiet again, preferably quieter. (space constrained) http://www.performanceexhaust.com.au/~2320 http://www.performanceexhaust.com.au/p/15-LONG-X-2.5-DIAMETER-MILD-STEEL-UNIVERSAL-HOTDOG/HD15250P-P - 2x of the oval mufflers have the same internal volume as the existing twin muffler so would that produce the same sound output? - Or I could fit twice as many hot dogs. How many hot dogs would it take for equal silencing as one oval muffler? - Do these 2 types work the same or differently? I don't know the sciences of mufflers other than I want straight through unrestricted pipes, no baffles or 1" Varex chokers thank you. Current setup is venom 4" dump & Cat into Pacemaker twin 2.5". While it sounds nice I want it to go louder with some sort of bi-modal/valve setup as I leave home in the mornings while the family is still asleep. Plan is unbolt the rear section above the axle & go from there, running one pipe straight up under the tray and through the rear tailgate. The other one will go up and across just behind the diff then out the opposite side of the tray, both straight pipe. Trick is once they get up under the tray ill put a y-pipe & butterfly valve to a 2nd (& 4th) pipe running on the other side of the trays main beams which will be full of mufflers for silence. Ill be moving the reversing lights, get half size break/blinkers & re-route some wiring. Also try & go Quad 4" tips but may have to settle for Quad 3.5" Between toolbox-Beam I have 5" tight so 4" wide mufflers at a maximum.

Hey guys first time posting been researching into an XR6 turbo conversion for about 6 months or so and I've decided to go ahead with the project but have run into some issues/questions that need addressing before I mindlessly slap sh*t on an N/A motor expecting everything to be rainbows and roses. Currently I've bought - FG F6 intake manifold - Fuel rail - FPR - F6 Injectors - Throttle body - Map sensor - GT3576 - Intercooler and all piping including cross over and throttle body pipe I still need a fg exhaust manifold and dump pipe but is there anything else I need to get ? I'm quite certain I'm missing some parts that I've seemed to skip over. what I'd also like to know is there are some vacuum lines on the intake manifold I'm not sure about. I do know one of the hoses is connected to the brake booster but I don't know what the other 2 vacuum lines are for. One being next to the brake booster vacuum line and the other being on the opposite side of where the map sensor is. If anyone could at least help me with one of these questions that would be awesome. Cheers

Hello I'm a New Member as of today.... I'm Rockin a Gold 04 Ba Xr6 Turbo Ute in the Far North of New Zealand. How did I get here you ask ? (or not)...Here go's anyway!. Having a owned few early, mid and late 70's falcons as well having driven a range of 80's 90's and later models over the years. I have wanted a Turbo Falcon Ute of age's. So after lining the Ca$h it was time to start looking. I hit Gold...as in a Gold Ba XR6 Turbo Ute in reasonable condition... km's...right price... standard unmodified on the right Island (Not a lot come up for sale in New Zealand). Best of all for me is the fact it has 2300kg towing capability 700kg or so tray capacity... it's great on the long haul's really comfortable with heaps of grunt. After the acquisition I had a full service done and replaced the ignition coils, brake rotors and pads as well as new performance tires. Upgrades for my Ute on the horizon are : Upgraded rear leaf springs, Xforce exhaust, cold air intake and dyno tune. I'm here to learn as much as I can and will appreciate any advice. Best time I ever had was driving a Falcon Ute from Brisbane to Bathurst camping out in the back for 3 days watching the V8 Supercars and driving back. Feel free to post or leave a comment. Big Ups to the moderators and contributing members. Cheers

can anyone tell me what an xr6 Craig Lowndes turbo ute got to differ from a standard xrt6 turbo ute , cheers

I have a Green FG XR6T ute with standard 17inch rims. Time to upgrade, due to rough roads around home I will stick to 18's. Which Option 18x8 Versus Monza, 45 offset, Sumitomo 245.40.18 tyres 18x9 front, 18x10 rear Versus Raceforge Sumitomo 245.40.18 front 265.35.18 rear (offset between 20-35) Second option is an all black wheel, first is black with polished rivet look. I would hope the second option would help hide the huge gap wheel to guard at back of ute? Extra $500. Ideas? Opinions? Thanks

Guys Tossing up what to do about a tail shaft for my FG manual ute Currently running around 360rwkw on 98 but will be getting the tune finalised in the next few weeks and with an eflex tune hope to be pushing into low 400s Tailshaft is currently stock; as is the rest of the rear end, ride height all stock too. I've owned since new ('08) and give it a good flogging when the need arises, but I'm generally fairly easy on it around town Usually I make an effort to keep it all smooth as possible - ease it into gear, little bit of throttle on downshifts etc etc... basically to eliminate the amount of lash/clunk/whatever that seems to come as standard with these cars. If driven like that then it's smooth as. (True story) But giving it a few hard shifts WOT 3-4 the other night - could definitely feel it there more, CVs did not seem to like it too much Tried to do a bit of searching on here but couldn't seem to pin down any threads regarding tail shaft issues in manual utes in particular - not due to power anyway, plenty of issues from lowering Point is, power will be going up and it won't be getting any better, so I've basically decided to go ahead with an upgrade, question is, what's best option? I know CMS will supply and install upgraded trail shaft for $1550, waiting to hear back from them what brand/supplier and what they're rated to. Pricewise I think 1550 is more than fair if it's say a 1000hp rated shaft and balancing issues don't rear their head. Common complaint seemed to be was massive increase in NVH with the change from CV to uni type joints From memory this was all in auto utes or sedans or manual sedans though so not sure if/how relevant Is this likely to be more/same/less of an issue in a manual ute? Options and opinions please

Hey lads, I've just bought an auto 2008 fg xr6 turbo ute that's completely stock. Being new to the scene I have a few questions for the more experienced. Firstly I was wondering what kind of power the stock turbo is capable of and how much psi they can take before things get a bit sketchy. Secondly I was wondering how much power the stock driveline and gearbox are capable of taking. I'm chasing anywhere around 400kw at the wheels. Not looking for something to get low numbers on the drag but something that's capable of smoking just about anything I put it up against. The first thing I'm looking at doing is changing all the stock inter cooler/turbo piping and getting a tune and an exhaust Money isn't a major issue however I would like to keep the costs as low as possible to try and do as much as possible if that makes sense? Any input would be greatly appreciated and there will be photos to come as the build gets under way. Cheers, Taylor.

Hi Guys, Long time reader, first time poster. Sorry if this already has a thread about it, I couldn't find one, so a link would be great if there is. I've just purchased my first car, a BA XR6T ute which I worked for in-between uni over the summer and had it for about a month now. Absolutely love it, wish Ford would keep making them! However, when I was backing into the garage last night, I began to hear this loudish rattle which sounded like it was coming from the exhaust and I hadn't heard it before. But decided I would look at it later. Well today when I went to go for a drive, I drove out of the garage, until I noticed what looked like some string type stuff hanging out of the exhaust pipe. Im assuming this is the exhaust packing. I pulled out about a foot of it, but decided to stop when there was more coming out. The packing felt wet as well, should it? What part of the exhaust pipe is this actually coming from? Is it the muffler? Which one centre or rear? Is it a sign the Cat converter has carked it? I was thinking of getting the centre muffler removed because I didn't really want to spend the money on a new exhaust straight away, but is this a sign that I should be replacing the exhaust? I was also going to book it in for a service next week, should I get the mechanic to look at it then, or just take it to a muffler place? Overall, just looking for you guys advice on what it means and what I should do to fix it. Cheers, James.