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Showing results for tags 'TURBO'.
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Thought I'd make a thread of my modding journey, anyone who is keen to post their own journey is more than welcome! the rig end of last year ----- current - minus exhaust before current
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Hi guys, new to these forums and just picked up a BA as a project with a bit of an exhaust leak. I’ve had a look at the manifold bolts and it seems that 2 will snug but never tighten, I have purchased a new gasket and some studs to replace the bolts but just wondering if there is something else I will need to do first with the holes or what? cheers.
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G’day I have a exhaust manifold gasket that’s leaking obviously on My BA XR6 Turbo and I was wondering whether I could unbolt the 12 manifold bolts and slightly pull the manifold away and remove the gasket and then slide the new one back in and bolt the manifold back up without having to remove the whole thing with the turbo? an answer would be mint, cheers
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So this afternoon I put My Ba Xr6 turbo 5spd into second gear and gave it a boot till around 3,500rpm and could hear a super load ticking noise coming from the engine bay, replicated the same sound, only in second and as soon as boost starts kicking in. thoughts?
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02 ba turbo ute in limp mode Parked up ute put in new injectors and fuel pump. Went to tuner ute was in limp mode was fine before installing the items. In process if changing fuel pump broke a abs wire and soldered back together. Auto elec said abs is all reading right. car will go up to 110kph stays in 3rd no speedo all prnd flashing. has Canbus fault on scanner and sometimes speed sensor have Replaced abs pump,tried a engine ecu (only plugged in not programmed to start) replaced fusebox. Check wiring. Reset code on gearbox. Cleaned gearbox wiring. please help this has been a pain for months and no one can find the issue
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Trying to gather information to start preparing for a Barra swap into an 02 Mustang GT. If there is anyone who could measure from the front of the engine to the shifter on a T56 transmission it would be appreciated. I am also curious to know if there are any downsides to using a BA motor vs BF if I am going to be installing forged rods and pistons anyways. -
hello all. ive recently noticed my zf6 transmission from my bf mk1 turbo knocking/rattling when put into reverse. not sure what problem this is, the car is warmed up pretty well however it is cold outside still but doubt this comes into play. anyone know what it could be? cheers
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Hi Guys, I am in the process of developing a paddle gear shift setup (pretty close to complete) for the FG Falcon auto gearbox. I have had the prototype working well in my car for about a year tweaking paddle shape, switch mechanism design etc. I need to get an idea of paddle (the bit that you touch) powdercoat colours that would be suitable as I have seen a couple of different vehicle interior colour schemes. My XR6 Turbo has silver trim so silver or maybe just black would be suitable. I have a friend that has a G6E that has gloss black trim where the silver bits are on my car so I would think black would be suitable in his case. I did a set in Gloss black but I didn't like the look of it. The set in the photos below (with white background) are powdercoated Satin Black which I quite like (probably hard to tell from the photos though). I will pre-empt questions about why the paddles are stationary rather than rotating with the wheel. The simple answer is that there is just not enough room between the steering wheel rim and the indicator and wiper stalks especially when they are pulled (high beam and wash) where the stalks almost touch the back of the steering wheel. I figured it is good enough for the following exotic cars so our humble Falcons should be OK with it: Ferrari F12, 458, 488, 599 Aston Martin DB11 Lamborghini Merchialago Lamborghini Aventador (I am sure there are more, these are just the ones I have noticed) There are also a couple of photos of an older prototype installed on my car. Any suggestions of paddle colours would be great or any other feedback.
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Hi everyone, long time stalker first time poster! I'm helping my brother out with his car @biddie_fiddler as it's hit the sh*t a bit lately. I am going to reclaim and re weld the external waste gate from one rear housing to another. I am a welder/fabricator by trade and I weld exotics/alloys as well as regular carbon steels, however I have never cast, let alone steel to cast. My question is going out to those who have done it before, I know that cast needs pre and post heat treatment however I know that no one does that, what filler wires did you use and how did you do it without it cracking? I am thinking I'm going to use inconel wire as it binds nearly every dis similar metals together. Please tell me how you've gone about it?
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hey guys, was just wanting to ask if its risky to push more power out of my 06 bf mk1? im running 16psi on stock turbo w a flapper mod pushing 460 hp, around 217k kms on engine, but have wanting to upgrade the turbo to potentially a pulsar gtx and get an external waste gate. with the upgrades I was aiming for at least the 500 hp mark and maybe 17 or 18 psi to achieve that. is there a risk to any of this as I know mk1 have weaker internals e.g rods. if anyone can give some insight I would appreciate it. cheers :)
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Hi All, I'm a newbie in need of some help. I'm currently in search of a tuner around bris and know I need to discuss with them. I recently puchased 2013 FG XR6 Turbo. Mods on purchase were: - Plazamaman stage 2 intercooler - Plazamaman turbo side air box - Plazamaman battery relcate kit - Fan cooled tranmission cooler After an engine issue I have had to embark on a build sooner than expected/planned. I'm currently getting the engine rebuilt with the following: - Machine work (Hot tank, recon head, valve seals, hone, deck, crack test block, linish crank ) - Spool rebuild kit (pistons, rods etc) - Ovate wire beehive valve spring kit - Billiet oil pump gears and backing plate - 12mm head studs - Stage 3 cam shafts - Atomic timing chain kit - ARP main bolt kit - Ross performance engine dampner - new water pump - 4 inch turbo back system with high flow cat Likely additions - Main girdle - Flex plate - Fuel system and injectors - Turbo ? Budget is becoming an issue however I dont want to skimp on something now only turn around and upgrade it in a year. Ultimately, I would like to max out the engine build and be around the 1000HP but can't go this far until I have the budget to sort out the drive line which is likely to be a year or more off. I'm pretty lost as to the best options with the fuel system and injectors at different levels of HP. Also curious as to opinions on the flex plate but it seems like a great idea to do it now. I wasn't exactly planning on upgrading the turbo however if this will let me set up the fuel system and injectors correctly for the ultimate build it makes sense to do it now. It would also be good to get as much HP as the stock driveline can handle. What do you guys think the best options are ? Thanks
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Ive scored a brand new Aeroflow 7075. 8005-4004 T4 with1.15 rear My concern is its best rpm range and lag. Car was previously stock engine with nizpro springs, high mount with to4z t4 1.06, 4" dump with 2" wastegate pipe through 50mm wastegate, hdi 600x300x75 cooler, 3.5" xforce exhaust, plazmaman top plenum, seimen daka 660cc injectors. T56 manual sedan. Would start building boost at 1100rpm in top gear. 12psi by 1500rpm. No lag issues. Was running it to 6300rpm New built engine, lots of porting with large ferrea valves. New pro series plazmaman intercooler. New complete plazmaman plenum intake. Possibly will go to stage 3 crow cams also. Car is street car, would like to do some weekend street circuit fun. Not wanting to rev it harder than 6500rpm due to factory crank. Is this turbo too big for my application, will it be laggy down low in the rpm range? Feedback appreciated. -
hey all, So purchased my Territory Ghia Turbo 2 months ago and I was driving home today the check engine light came on. Nothing appeared to be out of the normal until I got off the freeway and found my turbo making a bearing noise. Car has done 120 thou and has log book service every 10 thousand k's sometimes 5 thousand k's. Started the car back up once I got home to see if I could here the turbo again and I cant really. I have a really bad feeling im going to need a turbo rebuild. Is it common to happen to these turbo's on the fords? I know garretts are good for 150 thou or more before they even start to show signs of wear and tear. Should I wait for the car to cool down and take it for another drive?
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Hey Guys So I recently brought an 08 FG turbo off a guy from facebook, stoked as with the car driving it home (about an hour and a half from where I live) I made the mistake of putting 91 in it I assumed it wouldnt be a problem bc I owned a ba xr6t prior and it ran fine on 91, anyway it drove home fine come the next day I drove it around in the morning to show one of my friends and when I went to leave I started the car and when I put it in Reverse it stalled all of a sudden (yes its Auto) to my frustration I ended up getting it to drive again and once I got it on the road I gave it a bit of sh*t and managed to get it to my friends house around the corner, I took off throttlebdy looked clean so I took the AFM out and cleaned that also put it all back together and it ran perfectly for about 5 mins then stalled again once it went under 1k rpm. I talked to the previous owner about it and he said hes only ever run 98 So I thought it may have been something to do with 91 so I filled the rest of the car up with 98 thinking it may have been tuned to just 98/95 and put some octane booster in there managed to get it to idle with out stalling then after about 20 mins I gave it a little rev and I noticed it started making a knocking kinda noise around 3k rpm. I brought an diagnostic reader and it doesnt come up with anything on there and im starting to freak out abit. Has anyone got any advice or how to go about fixing this and if it is a knock whats the best/cheapest way to fix that? Cheers in advance
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Hi all, Am a full newbie to the fordxr6turbo forum, or any forum for that matter, and just thought I'd share my experience in converting my BA mk2 XT wagon into a turbo/manual/lLSD equipped weapon. Got a bit fed up with how much choice Expensive Daewoo fan's have when it comes to a quick wagon and was always pretty cut about ford never making a BA or BF (or even FG) wagon that had some poke. Massive missed opportunity. Anyway, I got a bit of inspo from looking at other members conversions on this forum where they'd converted their taxi's into turbo WMD's and thought I'd give it a red hot crack. So I got excited one night after a couple of bevvy's and found myself as being the proud owner of a beaten up xr6 turbo ute. 5 months later and I can finally say the conversion is complete and the wagon is running sweet as a nut. Completely stock in every way apart from a cold air snorkel from an FPV typhoon and a Turbosmart BOV and Turbosmart Wastegate Actuator. Have no idea what power it's putting out but it's enough for me at the mo. Am looking to get a tune done at some stage in the future but the bank account won't allow that for a while so I'll just keep it as-is for now. I got some gangstaaaaaaaaa wheels for it too and reckon they set the thing off perfectly. Will post again soon to cover off on the issues I ran into along the way. The reason I joined is to share what I came across during the conversion process cause I ran into heaps of conflicting advice from this forum and others and just thought I'd help clear things up where I could.
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Hey guys. I know this is an absolute long shot. but, many a moon ago, (2010-2012, somewhere around that time) my father sold his beloved XR6 Turbo BA ute. And I'm trying to find out what happened to it. Rumour has it, it ended up in Sydney, but I'm not totally sure. It was sold in Qld. Unfortunately, all I have of that ute are some EXTREMELY low quality photos, I'm talking potato spec photos. The 4 photos I have left: Heres a quick block of info on the car. It was a fully built BA. Fully done suspension, 900kw at the wheels, 1600nm. It was an auto, but it absolutely raped gearboxes, I'm talking 5000-10000 km if you were lucky. So whoever bought it would have had all the fun in the world changing boxes. It had an alloy flatbed, and it had this blue carpet stuff attached to the flat bed. I also distinctly remember it having a Bob Jane T-marts sticker on the back window, along side one that said "Sucks to be you." I'm just trying to find out what happened to the damned thing. It's always made me wonder, and it just hit me this morning that I should go to the forums, and see if anyone happened to buy the vehicle, or know someone who did, or where it went. Anything could have happened to it. It may have been written off and sent into a tree for all I know. The car introduced me to high horsepower fun, so I just want to take a trip down memory lane. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks
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hey guys theres been alot of talk on the bf xr6t im hearing lots of different things about it, people saying they have the same internals/engine as the bf typhoon, if true is it from 2006 upwards or 2007? and is there any difference mechanicals wise between the bf mk2 or mk1? thanks
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I was talking to a mate about the different types of Barras and he was saying something about naturally aspirated motors are weaker then the turbo variants. just wanted to see if this was true at all and if it is what’s the difference between the two
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Hey guys, I am looking to purchase a FG-X XR6T and want to spend a few thousand (including labour) on increasing power. Is this achievable? Will I need to travel to Sydney/Brisbane to reliably get mods installed and a decent tune? (Located Mid-North NSW). Or just stay local? $3-4000 would probably be my limit on spending. I want the car to be reliable and be fine dealing with my lead foot on a daily basis for years. 350kw is just a ballpark figure I would probably be happy with. I dont want to go crazy, I just want to get the most bang for buck. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, the more info the better.
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I am writing this to let members know about a very common problem that affects the Turbo Falcons. The electronic boost solenoid gets sticky after about 10,000km. I did this maintenance on my car last Saturday night after reading about it on another forum. My car felt sluggish going onto boost. While the car still pulled like a freight train, it did not come onto power like it used to, so I thought I would try out the procedure. The difference was noticeable on the Bathurst Christmas cruise as the boost came on like it used to without the lag that I was experiencing before the maintenance. Now I have tried to write this for anyone with the right tools and a very basic mechanical knowledge. If you do not feel at ease under the bonnet, you may be best to get your friendly mechanic or mate to do it. Firstly the parts: Can of WD40 or similar (I used Nulon spray) 10 and 12mm spanner Long nose pliers 10 minutes of your time. Now this work can be done with the battery installed, but is easiest if the battery is removed. 1. Open the bonnet and locate the battery and remove it using the 12mm spanner, removing both terminals and then the battery clamp. The arrow is pointing to where the boost solenoid is located 2. With the battery removed, locate the boost solenoid pic has a circle around it 3. You can either grab the hose with the long nose pliers or undo the 10mm bolt to make removing the hose easier. Once you have removed the solenoid, remove the top black hose adjacent to the plug with the long nose pliers. It is important that you do this carefully and pull the hose straight off, do not wiggle it off or you could break the plastic tube. The hose can be grabbed above the metal clamp and pulled straight off with a little force. Once the hose is removed, spray a liberal amount of lubricant (WD40) into the plastic tube and also up the rubber hose. Reverse the whole procedure and go for a drive. You should notice a significant improvement in the way your car comes on boost. This should be done every 10,000km for optimal results
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just why my heater don't work the blower and aircon dose but temp fluctuates between half and quarter will that affect power and my turbo on my xr6
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How do you remove/get to the turbo oil feed on the side of the block on a BA Typhoon with the fpv engine oil cooler in the way? Mine has blocked and blown the turbo I have fitted a new turbo but can't seem to get to the oil feed to replace the stock oil line with the new oil line?!
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Hey guys thinking of converting my territory this turbo to rwd. Haven’t found any threads which seems like bad news but any info would be appreciated on whether or not this is even possible. also whether it’s safe to do so.
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Hi ladies and gents I've recently replaced my stock turbo with a procharge 67mm low mount however I'm not happy with the OEM heat shield in the engine bay, its getting old and looks grubby. Has anyone replaced this with a turbo blanket or similar?? Or would I be sacrificing performance for pure aesthetics?? Advice would be much appreciated. Cheers Chad
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Hi all, I'm new here and could really use some help. I have a 2008 FG XR6 Turbo with 240000km on it. It has the ZF six speed. For a while now it has been running a bit weird. I will be driving, mostly when it's cold or warm and it will make a weird kinda vibration noise, revs will drop by approx. 400-500rpm for the duration of the vibration. It will do this up to 7 times. It is intermittent and each vibration lasts for approx 0.5-1 second each time. I have googled it and even bought a Bosch OBDII reader and it came up briefly with trouble code P0133 . I have replaced the o2 sensor and it fixed the issue for a day. I found that the hose that runs from the PCV valve was snapped, so I replaced it with some fuel line hose and it fixed the issue for 2 days before starting. All the manifold bolts are tight and I even checked it for leaks and found nothing. It doesn't do it while on boost, only while on vacuum. Turbo has minimal play for a car of it's age. It is starting to do my head in. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers
