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Thought I'd make a thread of my modding journey, anyone who is keen to post their own journey is more than welcome! the rig end of last year ----- current - minus exhaust before current

Hey lads and ladies (maybe) So I've met my first power goal of 500hp and am in need of a new clutch very soon as I only have the stock FG F6 one. Any advice on clutches I should be considering???? my next power goal will be the 700hp mark so want something that's not going to clap out and take a beating but still relatively light for city driving. My mate will be putting the EXEDY DEVIL CLUTCH (ceramic and organic) in his XR6T which is pushing 700hp and he said he'll be able to get this for cheap through the business for me. Has anyone got any experience with EXEDY??? if so any info would be much appreciated and prices etc..... also any advice on mechanics in Brisbane to do the labour. Cheers Chad

I noticed over the last few weeks the coolant level dropping ever so slightly but haven't thought much of it. Turns out I've got a leak from around the middle of the thermostat housing that supplies the transmission. I believe these where standard fit to automatic FPV's (B) and taken off in the FG series all together. I've read that these have also been discontinued from ford which I'll look in to more tomorrow. Any suggestions as to a fix? Few options are; find a spare take it out and route it normally (like all the other zf boxes in the range) try and find a for like replacement (which I think may be difficult) god forbid, chemiweld (no I'm not going down this road)

I've just purchased a completely stock 04 ba xr6 n/a I have a worked bf f6 motor apparently to about 450 rwhp with all the loom ECu etc, just looking for advice reccomendations and possible problems I might encounter with my conversion

So I've just installed mirrors with indicators on My Fg 50th anniversary ute. I really wanted that 50th fender badge and thought the mirror indicators looked good too. None of the utes have indicator mirrors simply because there are no wiring looms for the utes that would allow them to just plug in. I'm not sure which if any of the models of sedan are plug-n-play. A pair of aftermarket indicator mirrors from Sydney Special Vehicles is around $300 from their ebay site. If you want to use Genuine ford mirrors you need to make sure you get ones WITHOUT the mirror memory function. The S S V ones seemed a bit thinner & plasticier than the genuine ones. Before: First take the door panel off. There's a write up for that somewhere round here. Then unplug the mirror loom Snip the cable tie holding the wiring Undo the 3 Torx screws holding the mirror. If you don't have these bits I'd suggest buying a set of them as they're all through this car. Hold the mirror as you undo the last screw so you don't drop it. Put your new mirrors on, running the wiring back through the hole and do the screws back up. The S S V mirrors have the same factory Ute loom plug so it'll go straight in, plus 2 loose wires for the indicator. Now running the indicator wires there's 2 ways. Either push the wires through the factory grommet snake thingy, (I struggled when I ran my speaker wires) and then through the interior and back out to into the quarter panel. OR as I did, run some small corrugated tubing out the bottom of the grommet and up into the quarter panel through the door jamb, Much easier & iv had no issues with it. The hardest part is trying to get the grommet off its frame. To remove the factory indicators push them down bringing the top out. Then lift them up bringing the bottom out. Unplug the loom from the indicator. I then coiled the 2 indicator mirror wires together by sticking them in a drill to make them easier to rout & deal with. Then feed them through the corrugated tubing and flail them around in the direction of the indicators until you can feed them out through the factory indicator hole. Now what I did was strip back some sheathing from both + & - wires and soldered in the new wires. (sorry no pics) You could also cut the old plug clean off if you wanted. I then used some liquid electrical tape being it such an awkward spot then also wrapped it up in electrical tape. Take this opportunity to test the indicator is working before you put it all back together. The Bulbs that came with the mirror seemed to be a bit duller & different shade of orange, so I put the factory bulbs in the mirror. It doesnt matter about + &- orientation unless your using led globes, then just plug the globe in the other way. I bought the 50th anniversary badges straight from ford as I couldn't be bothered waiting to find some from a wrecker. It took me a bit to convince the Potato in the Parts department that the badges existed and had to basically tell him how find them in his own software.The end of the factory wiring loom plugs into the back of the badge so it's not left dangling around in the fender. You could also use FPV, G6E or G6E turbo badges. Apply using the double sided tape. Coil the excess wiring into a ball in the door, put it all back together & your done! (And why does typing S S V without spaces turn into Bogan special ?)

G'day guys, I have MKII FG XR6 Turbo with 48000km on the clock. I have recently purchased a MKII F6 cluster to install but it has much higher km (200+) and I have looked high and low for someone to adjust the km for me but have had no luck. Hoping one of you guys can point me in the right direction. Cheers, Mo

Hey guys, It's a bit tough finding some information on this, as well as understanding it when you have no idea how it all works.. So it seems my car has some kind of "whirr" noise when cruising around 80km/h and above.. From my reading, it most likely is my rear diff (currently at 160,000km - was apparently replaced at 100,000km). In any case, is there a newer model that I could replace mine with, one that is tougher or would last longer? Or an upgrade I can do if it goes or before it goes? Or am I better off doing a rebuild and leaving it standard, or finding a new one of the same model instead. There seems to be a few companies that sell FPVs as scrap so I could pick up a newer model from one of those places, and use that instead? Like, does the FG Typhoon have a better diff? Just trying to learn my options from the helpful folk that know what they're doing, as I have no idea. Very new to this.. My car: 2006 BF Typhoon 6sp Auto

Hi guys, Need some help please! I have a 2007 BFmk2 FPV Tornado Ute, 6 speed manual. I had my clutch replaced over 18 months ago and since have had problems with the clutch pedal losing its pressure, its current got about 75mm of free play before it begins to engage and moves the clutch, and when I say free play I mean its basically floppy. So now I cant even get my car into gear because the pedal wont move the clutch enough. At first I though it was a slave cylinder issue but it seems to be just something out of place. I do recall hearing about an issue with a spacer needing to be put it when replacing from a standard factory clutch. Has my mechanic forgotten to do this? Has anyone experienced a similar issue?

Hey lads So tax time is has arrived! :D and I'm very bored with stock power! So I'm getting a X-force 4inch dump and high flow cats put on for $1500 and straight after I'll be getting it tuned. Prices for a SCT flash tune Xcal4 or X4 I'm not to sure of the name of it was $2200 with 3 custom tunes, he was also saying another option was a direct file remap for $1650 but I've been told they're sh*t so wont be doing that. Also I can get a boost controller high revs comp for $1100 but is that worth getting??? I'm pretty sure he was saying that option adds so I can change the preset tune on the fly instead of having to stop and I <3 Bananas around to change presets. The quotes were from RPM dyno and performance in Morayfield, Brisbane. Has anyone had any dealing with these guys??? or can recommend anyone better??? his sales pitch was that he does a full custom tune that takes two days. Also if I have enough cash I would like to get injectors which he priced at $1000 for 1000cc injectors. Any advice would be much appreciated! Cheers

Decided to do a build thread so I have all my mods documented in one place. BF2 - 2007 - #0166 - Lightning Strike Silver - Manual - 80,000km - Fully optioned - Est 350rwkw (getting tuned this week) I bought this ute in January 2013. I found it on carsales, it was up in North Sydney.The guy I bought it from was the original owner and still had all the original documents and receipts from Ford which was nice. I did see a total figure of $67,000 when he bought it new. Geeez. lot of money for a ute. I payed 22k for it. It was in really good condition cosmetically. 64,000km on the clock. Completely bone stock. Exactly what I wanted. The only issue it had was the hard lid didn't really fit properly which I came to learn was a problem with the factory lids. I ended up fixing it thought --> http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/89197-babf-factory-hardlid-fitment-issues-my-solution/ The turbo gave up the ghost after a few months of abuse but this was due to lack of maintenance by the previous owner and the standard oil feed line blocking. I replaced the core, installed an earls feed line with filter & also changed the exhaust housing while it was out to a modified one (ported, wastegate flap) I've been collecting mods over the past year or so. As tempting as it was to go get some injectors, a cat and a tune, I patiently waited as I decided early on the power figure I ultimately wanted, do it right the first time. I had a bad bike accident a few months back so while I'm not able to ride, I decided to just buy the remaining mods I need and get the car going like I always wanted. 1. I did my own battery relocation early on in the piece in preparation for a turbo side intake. Was pretty cheap to do. I mounted a battery box to the floor behind the drivers seat. Ran the +positive cable under the right side trim/scuff guards and up through the firewall where the clutch master is. This was an easy mod. 2. Decided to get a HID conversion kit. Just a cheap flebay one but it does the job and came with 2 years warranty. Not a bad kit considering the price. My last car had zenons, they are leaps and bounds ahead of the standard H4's Right side ballast & controller. Mounted to the battery tray. May as well use it for something. Left side ballast. Standard airbox wont be going back in. They are hectic bright. Need to point them down slightly (ask pixy angel) 3. Brakes. Still rocking the original rotors and the fronts are pretty farked. Replaced with a set of DBA T3 Clubspec slotted rotors. Brembo Pads had been replaced by the previous owner just before I bought the car so I resurfaced them and re installed.

Hey guys Ive recently (well in the last 12 months) put a Genuine F6 body kit on the front of my FG XR6T tonner Ute. After I had a little run in with a fence I decided an upgrade would be better than a repair. So I thought Id document the journey and recorded parts & prices in case anyone else is interested in doing the same thing. DECISION When doing an FPV body kit there are 2 main routs you can take; Genuine or Fiberglass, each with their benefits & drawbacks. -Basically going genuine will cost a hell of a lot more & you will probably have difficulty finding individual parts for an appropriate price. But it will fit 100% and be plastic meaning it will be more hardy if it catches or scrapes on gutters. The easiest option is to check in with FPV focused wreckers for complete body kits straight off the car. -All after market kits are Fiberglass, which tends to (the internet told me this) crack and splinter more than plastic as it is not as Flexible. It will most likely need massaging & trimming to fit properly and a lot more prep-work for a good paint finish. However... with bumpers on ebay starting from $300 they are far cheaper, especially considering that they have the lower grill surround, upper grill surround & fog light surrounds already in the mold which genuine can cost $300 each & are very hard to find. There are also ones that are molded to suit the XR style headlights if you prefer to keep that look. I would genuinely recommend people go this rout if they have the time to prep the bumper or want to have a go painting it themselves. I went the Genuine rout, mostly because this is a daily work & leisure ute that will certainly see gutters, and because I underestimated how many other parts there where to find, and the cost & difficulty in acquiring them. Just for the front end parts I spent over $2500 before paint. SHOPPING LIST Here is my receipt for the front end & side skirts. Purchasing the bumper in early August 2015 & finally getting my hands on a pair of fog light surrounds in mid January, it was a drawn out process that took a solid 6 Months on eBay, calling wreckers and shopping around. Collected parts from Sydney Special Vehicles, FTG AutoSalvage, Macarthur Auto Parts, eBay sellers: mr.fpv, ikeech, mrcarparts.59 and Gumtree Genuine: -FPV Bumper: $900 -FPV Upper Insert : $300 -FPV Upper insert rear molding: $205 -F6 Lower Insert: $250 (slight damage) -FPV Fog Light surrounds & brackets: $270 -Stone/Splash Guard Extension lip: $100 (bargain) -FPV Ute Side skirts + Brackets, cabin only: $680 Aftermarket: -Upper Grill: $210 -Lower side Grills: $140 -F6 Headlights: $199 -Stainless bolts for stone guard: $15 -Short button head screws for grills: $5 BUMPER Bumper was the first thing I picked up. Found it on Gumtree, new, never used, was in storage for project that never eventuated so $900 is a good price. All the parts are the same for F6 & GT until you talk about the lower grill area, that's the only difference. Upper Insert & the Upper Insert rear molding. I didn't even know the rear molding existed until I tried to put it all together, It basically clips the front insert & bumper together & provides screw holes for the grill. Luckily the guy I bought the front piece from knew what I was on about because I have never actually seen one listed on eBay. Probably the parts I over-paid the most for. F6 Lower Insert. Mine was missing the tow point cover and had some deep scratches in it that were bogged before painting, but the piece was still a bit pricey. The single hardest part to find for a 'reasonable' price. Eventually came across them on my fortnightly wreckers ring around. There was 2 other pairs I saw previously on eBay but were asking $400+ Chrome plastic surround with metal brackets to mount the fog light. The Splash Shield Extension lip was another part with little information that I only knew existed after asking another forum user. The FPV bumper is about 100mm longer and slightly lower (enough so that I now scrape when parking into gutters with stock suspension) I did however get a good deal on it. Was getting a new splash shield to replace my broken one so I messaged the eBayer about it who happened to have one and threw it in for an extra $100. Which is very good considering there's used lips on eBay atm for $300+. It bolts to the splash shield using existing screws. However mounting to the bumper is apparently done from factory with large plastic rivet thingys, so instead I got some stainless dome head bolts & lock nuts. Here's the Stainless bolts I used for the splash shield, Button head screws for the grills and you'll most likely need extra Scrivits or Christmas tree plugs for re-mounting mud guards, as I got out the angry pliers to remove them. For the Grills I went after market. They're stainless, cheaper, fit perfect, look the same and in the case of the Upper grill don't come with an F6 outline in them, which would look silly if you don't plan to put an F6 badge there. Find them on eBay. There's also the option of a central lower grill but I wanted the open Intercooler look. If going for a GT front the lower grill & insert will be different. There are only 2 shapes of FG headlight; XR & non-XR. Meaning the base model lights are the same as FPV, which keeps the price down for us. I went with aftermarket Sydney Special Vehicles Headlights though because they're cheaper for the same look, you can feel the lacking build quality though. I didn't like the look of the DRL/ fairy light options & already had HID kits ready to attach. Now the Wheel arch splash Guards have an ever so slightly different profile around the bottom of the bumper. You can spend the extra $500 or so on a full FPV set, or do what I did with some cutters to make them fit better & mount solid. Remove the bottom section of the mud guard. Cut off the outer screw point. Then Cut along the back edge about yay far. You can then remount with that tail part poking under the lip extension and secure in the same position but with only 2 bolts and some new Christmas tree plugs. Profile is still a little different but not $500 different Removing the old bumper involves 2 bolts under the bonnet; either side of the upper grill & then 2 on each corner of the bumper, accessed by pulling back the wheel arch mud guards. There's then 2 small bolts at the back of the under bumper splash shield. Un-clip the corners of the bumper, unplug the fog lights & it should all come off. Swap out the headlights and your good to put on your new bumper. All mounting points line up perfectly so just bolt it all back up. SIDE SKIRTS Now the Side skirts I lost the photos of. (Phone went swimming) But they were Genuine, new & in blue. There is a Chrome insert at the front of each that clips in, which for the pair goes for around $100, however mine came included with them. They also require 4 aluminum brackets (2per side) which I also lost the photos for. The wrecker who quoted me the $680 didn't realize there were brackets at first but called me back once they found out and included the ford brackets new in packaging for me at the same price. (ftgautosalvage, would recommend, were very friendly & helpful even with my regular calls asking for the same parts) I then had the panel beater fit them as I was doing 12hr night shifts at the time, but you could make your own brackets or ghetto rig them up if you wanted. PAINT I had the bumper painted for cheap by a local shop (Not my first choice as they were too busy) when it first showed up. Found the paint code used on 50th turbo wheels and had the fangs painted to match, scratches in the lower insert bogged and painted gloss black black along with the FPV logo section of the bumper. The rest was painted 09 Lightning strike with a pair of indicator mirrors. Left the parts with them, $300 and took about 3 weeks. Result was not good they must have painted the whole thing in the darker colors then masked up & put the silver over top. They're lines & paint job were good but the silver didn't match at all. So once the side skirts turned up I had them done at my preferred local shop. $800 Left the car with them for a few days. They blended the sides of the bumper into the quarter panels & bonnet. Took 7 blending coats but it turned out 90%, can only fault if your trying to find it at certain angles to the light. Painted & fitted side skirts which came out perfectly and didn't need any blending. RESULT Went from this: To This: Along with a new Bonnet, PW Stage2 Intercooler, side mount number plate, Indicator mirrors, 50th Anniversary Badges, stickers & a Bobblehead! TLDR: Genuine F6 bodykit, spent over $4000, should have bought an F6 to begin with... I'm now even more scared of roos. Looks F*cking Epic though!

Thought I might kick off a bit of a register for the F6 Utes. I didn't realize they were as rare as they are. Starting here with BF 2006 #0077 in silhouette, fully optioned. Stock

Hey guys! So I've had this car for about 2 or 3 months now.. I forget already, my brain just isn't in it today! Anyway, I have intentions to build it up more, but all in time. I have a house build to ensure I have money for! So far this is what I've got: 19" FG Dark Argent wheels (Wanted TSW Bathurst, but budgets kicked in) 2.5" dual Venom exhaust in Stainless Steel Toyo Proxes T1S tyres with raised letters painted (Bored&Broke 10kw increase type thing) Future: Looking at a Process West package + dump pipe + tune (saving up - want to do it all in one hit) Lower springs and shocks (or maybe coil overs) Stereo goodies, get more hectic doof for more rwkw's. Clean up the front bar - covered in stone chips, plus there is some cosmetic damage on the front insert which annoys me. Was there when I got it, didn't bother me at first =/ Here are some pics:

Hey guys, Anybody have these on a BA/BF? (4/1 Brembos) I really like them, I'm sure they'll fit right? And I'm sure 4 the same size all around would obviously fit too?

Hey guys! Just wanting to confirm if I have the 4/1 brake set up? I'm pretty sure I do, since they're definitely Brembos on the front and PBR on the back haha.. But just want someone to confirm for my peace of mind! As in 4 pot Brembo fronts and 1 pot PBR rears. If I have the 4 pot brembo fronts, what style pad do I need to ensure I get? DB1473 or DB1935. Seems depending on where I search and shop, I get slightly different answers =/ Could someone please also help me find DBA rotors that would fit too? Hoping for model numbers, so I can reference and write down to remember! 2006 BF FPV F5 Typhoon

I see some FPV owners out there are making some heavy mods to their FG F6's, and discarding their stock parts. In particular I've seen someone selling a stock F6 full exhaust system and I'm wondering whether, if I fit it to my FG Sedan XR6 Turbo, it will make much difference - I.e. is the F6 system freer-flowing than the stock XR6 Turbo system? I wouldn't bother if it was just for the sake of the FPV F6 tip, nice as it is....

Hey all, around a year ago I made a post trying to decide what was best for me in choosing an XR6T or an F6. The time has come for me to choose a car (only have $30k budget though) and the decision I've come to is the following but I need help deciding; - F6 Auto (Found one manual asking for $35k but its too much out of budget for me to get). I found one for $33k which already has had work done to it [350kw] and sitting on 100k KM and another for 28k that's stock and sitting on 130k KM). -XR6T Manual. Not in the colours I want (apart from one but the guy isn't getting back to me). Can pick one up for about $20k and might be able to convince the bank (aka my nan) that I need to spend some cash on it to make it last longer. -XR6T Auto. I'm a little stuck for wear guys. I read up that the F6's aren't even majorly that much faster than an XR6T so I'm a bit confused on what to go for. Also, they don't have the colour I'm after (apart from a Green F6 with 200k KM on it which is way too much). Advice peeps? Is the F6 really worth the extra? The guy who is selling his worked one has had it for two years and he did the work to it via a shop. Better off just getting an XR6T and doing some work to it via a shop? Cheers, George.

The aim here was to set up my ute to carry two road bikes + track gear. Two bikes will fit no problem but if you need to carry gear as well than it starts to get a bit tight. Most of the time I will only be carrying one bike, but on occasion I will take both so its nice to have the set up for it. I had a good think about maximizing the space in the ute. I decided to position the bikes 400mm away from the head board and leave this space at the front for all my gear.This means having the tail gate fully open, which I'm fine with. (it would never fully close even with the bike all the way forward against the headboard, I use to tie it up against the back tyre) Loaded up both bikes to take some measurements and see how its all going to fit. Cutting, folding & welding plate for the front wheel chocks. Bottom rack welded up, trial fitting. Welding top rack & trial fitting Front section reserved for storage, sized to snugly fit two large storage tubs & a 20lt Fuel drumBottom rack will simply drop in with out fixings to locations in the tub linerTop rack will be mounted to brackets and be totally removable with only 2 bolts Brackets made up and welded to the support posts of the tub behind the tub liner. Note the passenger side support post is actually 20mm or so further back than the drivers side. The fuel neck must have been an after thought. (ford design quality) Tub liner back in and holes drilled. Welded some tabs on the outer brackets to locate the top rack.

Am I right in assuming that all BF XR series sedan and ute use the same black drivers door card vinyl? I need to replace mine. Has anyone got one for sale? Also, can anyone tell me the best way to: - remove the door card - separate the grab handle from the door card - separate the carbon door spear from the door card Thanks in advance.

Tuned by Joe at CMS - BF2 - 2007 - FPV F6 Tornado - #0166 - Lightning Strike Silver - Manual - 80,000km - Fully optioned 331.2 rwkw & 964.2 Nm on 16psi on BP 98 Build Thread Here --> http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/89288-I-jets-bf-f6-ute-build/ Power mods Nizpro turbo side intake.PW stage 3 intercooler kit, hot and cold piping, TB relocation.PW surge with 044.Stainless steel Xforce turbo back, 4" dump, twin 2.5" cat back.Wastegate flapper mod.12psi Actuator.KPM 1000'sVery happy with how the car drives now, it feels really strong when it comes on boost, pulls hard all the way to redline. The torque is mental. 4th gear roll on....ooohhhhh yeah..... I'm glad I upgraded my suspension before getting it tuned. It has handling to match now. It does have a tendency to do 3rd gear power slides out of corners.....hehehhehe I really think the only change I will do in the future is an E85 tune when it becomes available in my area.

Hey guys. Thought I'd start a little thread about the engine/ tuning limitations these SC/5l can handle. So basic tune (with air filter) most people see around 360-380rwkw? Pulley upgrade and exhaust.. what power are we seeing then? Up to what point do we need to change the injectors and fuel pump? (rwkw wise) Any info will be appreciated! Cheers boys

Hi I recently bought a FPV Force 6 wondering if anyone is using royal purple in there FPV or XR6T...I have always used Royal Purple 10w40 in my old VX SS but im new to the ford turbo engine and im unsure what oil to use it states in the service manual to use 15w40 so I am assuming that would be the best oil to use as royal purple make that oil...Dose anyone use that type of oil in there car, How do you find it, my car isnt a daily driver and has no modifcations at the moment...it also dosnt get flogged lucky if it hits boost once or twice in a week

Hey guys!! I just thought I would start my first little thread for our GS Brethren out there for general updates, what fits what doesn't, hints and tips comparison of mods dramas and so forth. (I hope this is in the right section!) So I will lead the way!! I picked up my GS last Friday as I traded my fg XR6T 50th anniversary, after just one drive in this machine I was hooked and I loved it. The car is standard and still under 3000km and after some direction I now have a K&N filter on the way up from Herrod Motorsport, and still have the SCT X3 ready to go from my last machine. I have been told to let the engine run in before the I take her in for the tune, but I dont know how reliable that info is?! I have also replaced the original wheels with some VCD 20's on low profile which I think suits this car better than the last one!! I am yet to take her down the strip, as I would like to see an exhaust, tune and intake to then shake it up! On the exhaust, has anyone seen those ones with the remote to silence the noise and open it up for performance and are they any good? any way here are some pics of my machine.

blew a piston in my 6th cylinder, buying a new bottom end motor, and getting the top end rebuilt. wanting more power out of the car, so whilst its all apart just need few ideas of performance mods I can do. e.g cams, pistons, etc

Hey pple just wanna read some opinions on the choice of wheels I got!!