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Thought I'd make a thread of my modding journey, anyone who is keen to post their own journey is more than welcome! the rig end of last year ----- current - minus exhaust before current

I just had my dealer replace my ICC unit on my FG. They replaced it and did not setup the reversing camera. When I spoke to them about it, they said the camera needs programming and would cost an additional $200. Does it need programming, I would have thought it was plug and play considering it was setup previously? and if it does need programming, is that something I can easily do? Or Does it just need wiring attached?

Hey all, im half way through the conversion I think. I’ve got the box and motor In the car taken out the old body loom, need to go pick the new one up tomorrow. But that’s all I need to get the car running right? At the moment I have: -engine/zf6 -engine/box loom (body loom picking up tomorrow) -same ecu that matches the tcm -tailshaft Some people are saying that I need to get the key reprogrammed, need to change the pedal box aswell plus floor plate. Am I able to get some expertise advice on how to crack on with this. It’s only been about 30 hrs since I’ve started and need to get it done asap… Thanks to all

Hi everyone, I currently own a G6eTurbo 2010 model with approximately 100,000 kms. I have done nothing to the car besides a rear muffler delete, besides this it is stock as a rock. The other week I was driving on an expressway travelling at about 100 kmh and then accelerated, not an overly hard acceleration but was overtaking someone so a reasonable push. As I put the power in the car lost power and flashed “Transmission fault” on the display. It put me into limp mode (3rd gear). I pulled over turned the car off and turned it back on and it appeared fine let me drive normally. I took the car into a mechanic and explained my problem but they said they couldn’t find any codes and they test drove the car which appeared fine to them. Since this I have tested the issue myself and found once the car hits operating temperature if I apply any hard acceleration after about 100 kmh the car immediately faults, limp mode, turn it off back on and it runs fine. I borrowed a reader and found the following code myself: DTC - P0735 - Transmission gear #5 incorrect ratio. DTC status: Continuous memory DTC. Has anyone had this issue or know what is going on with my car! I don’t want to keep mechanic shopping and being charged silly amounts to be told its fine. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Hello all, I have been on a journey of around 8 years with my FG. I penned the information to a mate a while back who was considering an XR6T, but recently thought it might be worth sharing. Here is a list of issues and modifications with my FG. It has something like 130,000km on it now. Mid 2008 model. Bought it with 20,000km’s on it from a dealer. It was owned by the Church before (no joke) I actually called the original owner as his name and number in the service book. He was an older guy and he didn’t have any issues with it, said he liked it for overtaking. I have done all of the work on the car myself over the years. It was my daily driver for most of this time and the intention was to put together a good street package, this included handling and braking. I also wanted it to look as subdued as possible to not attract any attention, first thing I did was peel the turbo badge off when I brought it home. Set at standard XR6 ride height with stock rims and no tint, intercooler is also black. The only give away is the Harrop brake package. Issues, A/C is pretty unreliable these days, I think there was a HIM issue but it isn’t helped by the intercooler in front of the condenser. The cooler is 3’’ thick so airflow is pretty poor across the condenser. If anyone knows about a fix for this please let me know. Pretty much all of the suspension bushings standard are too soft. Early days the diff used to sound like it was hitting the floor pan if any wheel spin occurred. I replaced shocks and springs but it didn’t help. In the end I put super pro polyurethane diff bushings in it and it was sorted. All three bushings were done, it requires the entire rear cradle to be removed. Under warranty I got the dealer to put them in for me, they were going to put new standard ones in but I just handed them the polyurethane ones on the day. This resulted in more drive line noise but it was worth it. Front upper inner control arm bushings are a bit soft, I replaced these myself with super pro polyurethane as well. This is not a must but I guess it helps to get a better feel in the steering. Front caster camber kits, I put Kmac ones in that allow for a lot more adjustment than the shim ones. I was unimpressed with the quality of the welds on the Kmac kits, so much so that I ground all of the welds off and re welded with my mig at home. I was hesitant to throw it into a corner very hard with the bird sh*t welds they had. I am happy with them since my modification and I would still use them again because the design and adjustability is good. Brakes, absolutely hopeless stock, not a fade issue for me. It was just shudder as soon as they got hot, definitely never experienced any fade and I was pretty hard on it (twisty/hilly country roads) every day, this said I backed off early because of shudder which certainly detracted from the driving experience. I tried Ferodo pads with DBA slotted rotors, (not cross drilled as I believe the cross drillings lead to cracking). Still developed brake shudder after 5,000km, it was a bit different to the factory rotor issue, with DBA is was a higher frequency shudder but still crap. I actually hit DBA up under warranty, they were very good about it and actually took me on a factory tour in Silverwater when I returned the rotors, they gave me a new set straight off on the day, I tried with these again, same issue developed. There are so many theories as to why the Falcons suffer from brake shudder but none are proven that I know of. Some say it is because there is a small amount of rust scale on the hubs that means there is a little bit of runout on the rotor which then causes the rotors to wear unevenly (thicker and thinner areas around the circumference) however my measurements never showed this. I would also expect the shudder to be there all the time if this were the case, not just when hot, which was not the case. Others say it is incorrect pad transfer to the rotor, apparently the pads lay a layer of material on the rotor and if this is inconsistent then shudder will occur, don’t believe this either. I recon the rotors are not thermally stable and warp when hot and then return to shape when cold. I can pretty much confirm it wasn’t my hubs because my Harrop brakes are on the same hubs and have done around 30,000 km without any issue. More on the Harrop brakes later. Rear control blade bushings were very soft as well, I replaced these as part of my efforts to get rid of axle tramp, I think it was never just one specific fix for the tramp, it was a combination of diff bushings, control blade bushings and shock and spring rates helped as well. End of story was it was fixed in the end and I could drop skids anywhere dry or wet without the issue, not that this was a daily occurrence but at least I could take off from a standing start without it feeling/sounding like I was going to break something. Glovebox lid wasn’t square, common issue replaced under warranty. Manual gear knob is leather wrapped from factory, this stretched over time. Replaced under warranty. It has stretched again but it isn’t really an issue. I have replaced one front wheel bearing and one rear needs doing now, not all that noticeable unless really pushing in a corner, bit a a click can be heard. Stock tyres are not great, don’t get cheap tyres either, it makes a big difference to grip and stability. I had to run high pressures in cheap tyres to get the thing to be stable at speed because the sidewalls are too soft, this compromises traction so it is not the best way to approach the issue. Better quality tyres is where it is at, currently Nitto NT 05's 245/45/18 on standard rims. Clutch, stock this held OK until 90,000km which was around the time I was pushing more power. It was OK at 300 RWKW but once I was at 350 RWKW it started to slip a little in 5thand 6th gear WOT. Shocks and Springs, too soft stock. Mine might have been an earlier model which had softer rates in it, I recon some of the hire car ones I drove in later years were pretty good in comparison. In fact, remembering back the brakes on those were fine with regard to shudder but fade was an issue although it took quite a bit to fade them (and they were smaller than the turbo ones). From the above description, I don’t think there is much there that is a genuine warranty issue except the bushes and axle tramp and brakes. The rest is just a personal thing chasing a better handling package. Modifications, I tried a fair bit of stuff to get to where it is now, not worth listing it all though. The bit I would like to do extra would be tune for E85, bigger injectors to go with it and a second fuel pump. I just stayed with BP 98 because I like my country driving. Started with a PWR stepped intercooler now running a Nizpro intercooler and piping. Process west surge tank and bosch 044 fuel pump, likely to run 2x 044's in future if I play with E85. Plazmaman battery relocation kit K&N pod filter (the largest I could fit) hidden under a home fabricated stainless air box where the battery used to be. Bead blasted stainless, it looks a lot like the colour of the car (Lightning Strike) ID 1000cc injectors- Might need to go to something larger if I go E85. 4’’ dump pipe from turbo to cat, I fabricated this myself at home 3.5’’ exhaust from cat back 5’’ 100CPI cat (kind of a token gesture of a cat, to me there isn’t much in the 100CPI cat's really) Started out with the GT3576 stock FG turbo, this ran 300rwkw at best, it then developed a bearing noise. I believe this is common so I changed to a GT3582 and installed an Earls oil feed line to prevent the issue happening again (oil starvation due to clogging of the stock filter screen, although I didnt see anything on my screen when I removed it). The GT3582 made 350 rwkw and certainly livened the car up. Finally, I went with a Borg Warner EFR 9180 turbo installed on stock low mount manifold. I like keeping the cars looking as factory as possible. I can't say what power this is making because I have never put it on a dyno since the change. Turbosmart fuel pressure regulator, this was a must, the stock pressure regulator couldn’t relieve the full flow of the Bosch 044 pump which resulted in all sorts of idle quality issues due to the fuel pressure being too high at idle. Mal Wood clutch (Option 5) It is a twin plate with billet flywheel. Atomic engine oil pump. It is common (mainly manuals) for the pump to shatter with high HP applications. No limiter bashing or free revving the engine if you are still running a stock oil pump in a manual falcon. Tuning is being done by me with HP tuners VCM suite Harrop Monoblock brake kit front and rear, these are 355mm rotors all round. I chose these instead of their ultimate kit because they fit under my factory 18’’ wheels (only just). If you get the ultimate kit from them you need to run different wheels. Very happy with these, I have found them excellent in all conditions, quiet never squeal work well hot or cold, importantly no shudder. Tein EDFC Super Steet coilovers, these can be adjusted from the cabin for damping rates. If you feel really tricky they can be set up to change damping rate depending on G forces force on accel and decel and lateral automatically but I don’t use it. They can also adjust depending on speed, again I don’t use it. Mine are just set to middle setting and that is about right for rougher country roads. I have been very happy with the Tein set up. It really transformed the car. I was running Bilstein front shocks, with Koni adjustable rears and king springs. It was better than stock but I was never really happy with it. A side note here, I think lowering these cars much below standard XR6T ride height is actually detrimental to handling, this might be due to me being on rougher country roads but I have never been happy with any of my cars handling if they were too low. I don’t know how much power it makes these days with the EFR turbo on there. I have just tuned it myself on the street. Running about 25 PSI boost from 2500 rpm to redline. It can build boost earlier, say 10psi at 1900 rpm, 15 psi at 2200rpm. Something like that anyway, so for highway cruising it can make plenty enough power in 6th gear to not worry about changing gears while on cruise control. My guess is around 400rwkw as it certainly has a lot more top end than it did with the Gt3582, the old Garrett seemed to nose over at about 4500 RPM. Again only a guess on the power number. The good things stock, Diff, the M86 diffs are plenty strong enough and the LSD has copped plenty of abuse. Tailshaft has been fine in mine, again I dont drop the clutch on it or abuse it too much. Normally put it in a gear and them put the foot down. CV shafts are fine, I think this is the case unless drag racing with slicks and auto trans, street tyres just act as a fuse to protect the tailshaft and CV's. Tremec TR6060 transmission are about as good as you can get, no issues whatsoever Stock unopened engine, no issues there (although I am surprised it has held in there), still stock valve springs at 25psi boost, no issues. I think the issue with valve springs is if trying to run high boost with small turbos the back pressure from a small turbine can hold the exhaust valves from closing causing a miss. It even survived an oil pump failure, just shut it down immediately at the time, pulled it apart and picked all of the chunks of metal out of the sump, a little depressing really. Shot some petrol up the main oil gallery leaving the oil pump with a clean white rag ready to catch what flowed back at me, no metal pieces up there so all good. It has done at least 60,000km since with no issues. I did put together an insurance policy after that experience in the form of a second engine ready to go. It started as an FG N/A engine out of a wreck with only 700km on it. New exhaust valves, some mild port work and better valve seat angles, Atomic rods, cosworth pistons, main girdle, new bearings ect. Ready for the next phase of the cars life. Interior is good Seats are good Words of wisdom, if I was building from scratch again I would have skipped all the intermediate steps along the way and gone straight for the best components I could get first time around.

Here's the obligatory thread to follow my dream daily's quest for 310rwkw! I want a place to add photo's, ask questions specific to my rig (without spamming other threads) and update anyone that may be interested! I'll treat this as like a sort of "build breakdown" even though its no where near as tricked out as a lot of the other builds on the forum I bought the car just over a year and half ago and basically immediately started saving and buying parts for the rig. Here's a before and after shot of the car from the first time I took it out for some shots till the latest. I got the car on a loan for 95 per week with an interest rate of 6.75%. For my first ever loan I was pretty impressed with the low rates. The car was on the market for 17k with 102,000km on the clock, but after all the warranties and car dealership sh*t it totalled to 24k (interest included over 5 years). First ever photo I took of the daily Latest photo taken of the daily! 🤤 (Yes its blurred, but its the only one that is landscape xD) The car is booked in with Monsta Torque in Perth on the 18th of January for Rob's stage 1 package on top of the work that's already been done. The stage 1 package will include 1000cc injectors and will be tuned using PCMTEC. My power goal for this setup is 310rwkw which I'm hoping is achievable on the stock turbo. Engine Mod List Billet oil pump gears Plazmaman 1000hp intercooler Intune Motorsports piping kit Intune Motorsports oil feed Intune Motorsports throttle elbow Antz Performance Intake and battert relo kit Ultrex 4" dump and high flow cat (middle muffler has been removed too) Walbro 255 intank fuel pump 1000cc injectors Trans Mod List Trans oil flushed at 115,000km External cooler with fan Hopes of prayers that she doesn't go boom Suspension and handling Superpro hybrid diff bushes Superpro rear control blades Superpro front upper control arms Superpro Camber adjustment kit BC Racing coilovers Falken FK510's all round (however currently has the cheapest rubber I could get on the rear) 100% fully legal wheel spacers Audio stuff & interior All interior lights changed for LEDs Kayhan audio ICC Alpine Type R mono amp Alpine Type R 4 channel amp Alpine Type R front splits Alpine Type S rear coax JL Audio dual sub setup Sound deadened all doors and boot I'm interested to see what you all think it'll make with the mod list mentioned above 😊 Keep an eye out for the new year when I'll be posting the dyno sheets 😁😁

After heavy rain I noticed a lot of water soaked in the rear leftside passenger footwell. I pulled the rear interior out and got my partner to hose it down while I sat inside and checked for leaks, couldnt find one. I left the interior out and monitored it after a drive, water was there again, pooled on the body where the seat would sit and had ran down to the carpet yet again. Turns out the water is getting into the body and pooling up, coming out a hole in the side next to the rear door (I'll add a picture link). I had a rag in there, on taking it out a stream of water came out. Has anyone had this problem? Im guessing there is meant to be a drain hole in that compartment to let the water out, which has now blocked. What do others think? I hope this helps anyone having a similar issue and cant figure out where it is coming from.

Hey all, just need a bit of help as I cant seem to find any info on servicing the fg diff. I have a 2010 fg, its developed a little bit of a leak from the rear diff, it's also about time to change the diff oil. I'm just wanting a bit of information about how difficult of a task this is? Does the entire cradle have to be removed? Doesnt seem to be a lot of room. Cheers for any help, really appreciate it.

How much is a brand new unopened 50th anniversary ford picnic basket I have one and looking to sell it

So I’ve bought a centre section only straight through pipe on eBay (from my understanding only deletes middle muffler) so I was wondering if anyone has tried this out and what are their opinions? Will eventually get a proper system but until then I’m doing the povo attempt at nicer sound.

Hi Guys and Gals, As requested by some mates of mine, I've taken some videos and photos of my 2009 FG XR6T Ex VICPOL HWP to show some of the differences and ways to spot an ex police car including the dual battery system in the boot. Feel free to click on the advertisements Comment/Rate/Subscribe! First is a video of the interior modifications and things such as where the gun rubs on the seat etc: Second is the dual battery system and modifications in the engine bay: Third is the dual battery system and modifications to the boot: Photos are self explanatory. Exterior Interior Differences

Hey everyone first Post on here. so today was driving home from work long story short heard a massive bang from the rear of the car I have an fg 2008 xr6 turbo and it was a massive bang😂 got home put it on the ramps found that the rear diff bush bolt had snapped. So the passenger side bolt it was by the petrol tank. Now I could have sworn I have heard this sound a month or so plus ago but wasn’t as bad now the hole diff if you put it into gear etc smashed on the bottom of the floor etc so it’s near undriveable noise is loud obviously as diff drops etc. can someone tell me please if I just need to replace this bolt or is there anything more that needs to be done diff bushes were done in March by the previous owner have reciepts etc for that. any info on where to go from here would be great I’ll have access to a hoist over the next week so just want to know if it’s as simple as a bolt replace or what ever else. Xr6 is all pretty stock power etc nothing stupid. Thanks Tony

Gday, bought a FG XR6 N/A a little while ago, was going to buy a cat back exhaust and wondering on everyone's thought on the best sounding for the N/A. I heard that a 3" doesn't sound good and 2" isn't loud enough soo I was going to go a 2.5" but thought id ask for opinions Thanks.

Hey guys, I have a 2010 50th xr6 turbo and I have an issue in regards to my cluster. I am unable to set any of variables in the centre of the cluster like my fuel consumption or digital speed reading as an example. It displays it in the small icon/tab up the yop but any time I go to set one of these options in the centre of the cluster it makes the noise but does not appear. Have disconnected and reconnected battery and done all the basics with no luck. Any suggestions? Cheers

Hey Guys So I recently brought an 08 FG turbo off a guy from facebook, stoked as with the car driving it home (about an hour and a half from where I live) I made the mistake of putting 91 in it I assumed it wouldnt be a problem bc I owned a ba xr6t prior and it ran fine on 91, anyway it drove home fine come the next day I drove it around in the morning to show one of my friends and when I went to leave I started the car and when I put it in Reverse it stalled all of a sudden (yes its Auto) to my frustration I ended up getting it to drive again and once I got it on the road I gave it a bit of sh*t and managed to get it to my friends house around the corner, I took off throttlebdy looked clean so I took the AFM out and cleaned that also put it all back together and it ran perfectly for about 5 mins then stalled again once it went under 1k rpm. I talked to the previous owner about it and he said hes only ever run 98 So I thought it may have been something to do with 91 so I filled the rest of the car up with 98 thinking it may have been tuned to just 98/95 and put some octane booster in there managed to get it to idle with out stalling then after about 20 mins I gave it a little rev and I noticed it started making a knocking kinda noise around 3k rpm. I brought an diagnostic reader and it doesnt come up with anything on there and im starting to freak out abit. Has anyone got any advice or how to go about fixing this and if it is a knock whats the best/cheapest way to fix that? Cheers in advance

This has been a long time coming! I said I'd do a writeup of my intercooler install a while ago and never got around to it, till now! 💪 Take this thread post thing as a GUIDE! Every car although the same model can be slightly different, as found out after to a bunch of people who have installed this cooler – some even do it for a living! In saying that they will all be pretty close! Although this guide is done for a Mk1, a Mk2 install should be pretty similar, as far as I know the only real difference is that the Mk2 has AC lines that interfere and need to be bend out the way. I still recommend anyone that reads this guide to have a good read through the plazzy instructions too, they aren't the best but have some good pointers. Special thanks goes out to @JETURBO for all the wisdom and chats to help me through this! All the photos for this thread can be found here, some will be in the thread itself. IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS PLEASE DON'T HESITATE TO ASK BELOW! I WILL DO MY BEST TO HELP YOU AS BEST I CAN (And I'm sure the others here will do the same) Requirements The intercooler kit itself You NEED aftermarket piping, I went with the intune motorsports piping kit, pretty good for the price! You can go with the plazzy piping too. Silicone reducers, I needed a 2.5" to 3" (63mm to 76mm) reducer for the intune piping. Angle grinder for all the mad cutting you're about to do. Reciprocating saw makes removing the factory IC mount easier - I did it with an angle grinder but was a pain. Other usual tools: socket set, screwdriver, etc. PATIENCE! Start early cause this job will take a lot longer than you think!! Jack up the car, or use ramps, and take the front bumper off I used ramps because you don't need to take the wheels off to do this install. That being said, to take the bumper off without taking the wheels off is a bit of a pain. Not impossible though! Lots of resources online on how to do this hence why I skipped explaining it. Here's a good thread that covered it pretty well. Remove the bumper support, horn bracket, headlights, and wiper bottle Remove all the bits that will be getting in the way. The black support thing needs to be removed, so do the headlights. I took the horn off cause it got in the way, just one bolt and a plug for the horns themselves Remove the water bottle for the wipers. You'll need a deep socket for this! I did this later on during the install but just save the time and do it now instead of avoiding it like me. The horn and wiper bottle pics are shown below Unbolt Intercooler Remove the piping from the intercooler. My car already had the intune piping kit so I just had hose clamps. The stock piping is easy to remove though. Just follow the pipes and remove the bolts that hold the stock piping in place. There's 4 bolts in total that hold the IC in. Two on the sides and two on the top, shown below. Say goodbye to the POS plastic intercooler. Cut the IC Support off You don't need to cut this flush but I did cause it looked better. Refer to the Plazzy manual on where you need to cut it to get by. I recommend cutting it flush though. If you use a reciprocating saw I'd put some wood or something on the other side so you don't cut through anything important. I marked in black on the sides where I cut. I cleaned it up more after I took these shots too but you get the point I think. Remove lower rad support I followed the plazzy instructions for this, the bolt has a weird flat-head screwdriver type head on one side which I think is dumb but whatever. I held that with pliers. There's also a bolt on the bottom of the rad support too. I also zip tied the top of the rad before removing the supports just to help support it a little. Not necessary but gave me piece of mind so up to you if you want to do it. Once the bottom supports are off go ahead and remove the top ones too. Drill the holes for the new rad support Now this is the part where @JETURBO saved my bacon. These measurements are from him. The measurements from the plazzy instructions are a little confusing. Refer to the picture below to see where the reference is taken from for these measurements. The first mark is at 100mm and the second at 165mm. Its from the end of the lower part of the crash support bar thingy. Yes, thingy, just look at the damn image. Centre the holes across the horizontal plane. Start with a 4mm pilot hole followed by a 8.5mm hole. Install the new rad support Put the mushroom looking rubber pieces back onto the radiator but put them on upside down! Its weird I know, but just do it. Makes life easier! I found this part so tricky and a lot of cussing occurred over a sad amount of time getting this thing in. This is the way I did it but if you know an easier way then reply below! It may be easier if you remove the zip ties mentioned above before doing this. I used a jack and a piece of mdf to hold the bracket and lift it up I lined up the radiator holes with the rubber with the holes on the top of the rad support and slowly lifted the jack up. With some adjusting and wiggling, get the rad support to line up with the furhest back holes and bolt them in. Tilting the rad support towards you helps with this. Once the back screws are in you can then use the jack to lever and tilt the rad support to line up with the front holes. I wish I'd filmed this to show it better. But just be patient with this part. Take your time! This is one of the hardest parts of the install so have a beer to celebrate your achievement! Now compare the old with the new to bask in all the glory of the new intercooler you just purchased I mean look at the difference!!! This thing is hugee! Like Donald Trump huge! I do kinda regret not getting the polished version but oh well! Still performs great! Also, get another drink while you're at this stage because alcohol makes this way more interesting. Add the top IC brackets I only took a photo after the install but you get the point from this. The right angle brackets are fitted using the factory hood latch bolts. I used the upper slots but your mileage may vary. Start with the top ones and fit the cooler to see if you need to use the others. Keep the bolts loose so you can adjust the intercooler. Cut the condenser bolts and trim some of the inner front crash bar. Bend the AC line, cut the crash bar. This is step 13 and 14 in the plazzy instructions. You NEED to cut these bolts shorter to fit the cooler. On the other hand, the crash bar part is dependant on the install of the rad support. I needed to trim a little bit, and by a little I mean I did even use a cutting disk. I just grinded it down a bit. I recommend grinding some off just to be safe. You can always slowly fit the cooler and see where it interferes and go from there (this is what I did). I also had to bend the AC line a bit but not much at all. This step is where it'll likely differ for you. These are also photos I took after the install but they will give you a good idea of what needs to be cut and bent. Step 20 of the instructions says to cut the crash bar. Its not shown in any of my photos but I had to do this for my install. I recommend just doing it and saving the hassle. Its easy to cut and gives you more room for the piping Test fit and repeat cutting process Using a jack, slowly lift the cooler from under the car. Hold the top of the cooler and keep an eye for anywhere it is hitting. I highly recommend you tape up the IC before doing or else you risk scratching it if you're not careful. I didn't do this but I took my time when lifting the cooler and checked everywhere to make sure it wasn't interfering anywhere. Once you can lift it far enough that you can bolt the top of the IC in, do so. You can then lower the jack and inspect anywhere where the cooler is fouling. I had to cut some of the plastic where the old lower radiator mounts were. No one mentioned this anywhere so could just be me but figured I'd mention it. Install lower IC bracket Once you are happy with the fitment its time to install the lower brackets. Follow the image below for a reference because they don't give you any in the instructions. Bolt it on loosely and adjust the cooler till you're satisfied with its fitment. Once you're happy, tighten all the bolts. Now is a good time to tighten the top rad support brackets and double check the lower rad support bolts. You can also reinstall the horn and washer bottle now too. The piping! This part is a b%$@ch to do. All you need is time and patience. You shouldn't need to do any more cutting by this point. If you have the intune piping or similar design, my best advice is to ram that piping into the intercooler ends as far as you can. You shouldn't damage the inside of the IC cause it won't go that far, just get them in there as far as you can! Cut all your Plastic parts This part doesn't need any images, just follow the plazzy instructions on what to cut as they explain it pretty well. A lot of people remove the lower rock guard so they don't have to cut it. I did it the long way and cut mine so I could keep the guard. This is where my images end because I followed the plazzy instructions afterwards. They do an alright job at explaining the piping and cutting plastic job but if you have questions just ask below! Reinstall bumper Check all piping clamps are tight. Reinstall the lights and the bumper and then stand back and admire your work. You did good!

Hey guys got a bit of weird problem here and I cant seem to find much on this page about it at all or in general. So I have a 2011 ZF NA fg xr6 and Im having a weird issue when I am coming into a stop the car struggles to almost find its idle point and it will rev up and down and fluctuate until its fully stopped. The issue is inconsistent as it wont do it all the time and its only happening when coming into a stop/rolling to a stop at low speeds/gear. Once stopped the car finds its idle and is fine doesnt dip up or down and its driving me insane. I have noticed since this issue began my car has been using a lot more fuel than normal and its been an ongoing issue for the past 2 months whether or not that's related to it. The car drives fine up in the top end, doesnt loose power or anything like so and in genral is fine in that regard. I have replaced numerous parts and nothings fixed it and for the life of me I cannot find a vacc leak. I've replaced things such as, throttle body, o2 sensor, Fuel pressure reg, maf sensor, pcv, battery, even the thermo stat as it needed to be done, even did spark plugs and fuel filter 10,000 kms ago and nothings fixed it and I do not want to keep throwing parts at it. I've had it at ford twice and they keep incorrectly diagnosing the issue as cant seem to find why its doing after I have done whats listed above. So any help or pointers in this regard would be so helpful as like I said its driving me insane. I also do have videos of it doing it if needed as it isnt the easiest thing to explain! Cheers Fellas!

Hey everyone, My 2010 FG XR6T ZF6 has been on the dyno today and on its last few power runs after you let off the accelerator about 5-10 seconds later there was a massive clunk that sounded like a gearbox was about to come through the floor. After the clunk it was slip out of performance mode into neutral and about 5-10 seconds later would go back into gear by itself. I have done a bit of research and cant seem to find anything gearbox related other then diff bushes but this thud seems to be coming from the under the front seats. Has anyone come across a issue like this before and figured out what it is? gearbox serviced 7000kms ago does not slip gears or have rough changes just having this issue on de-acceleration. Any help would be greatly appreciated cheers.

Hey guys just wondering if anyone knows where I'd get a set of black sun visors and map reading lights for my fg sedan or knows the best way to do it myself, can't find them anywhere. Thanks

Hey guys, I am looking to purchase a FG-X XR6T and want to spend a few thousand (including labour) on increasing power. Is this achievable? Will I need to travel to Sydney/Brisbane to reliably get mods installed and a decent tune? (Located Mid-North NSW). Or just stay local? $3-4000 would probably be my limit on spending. I want the car to be reliable and be fine dealing with my lead foot on a daily basis for years. 350kw is just a ballpark figure I would probably be happy with. I dont want to go crazy, I just want to get the most bang for buck. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, the more info the better.

Thought I would post up here about my car on this forum after stalking for quite a while and becoming quite active on the "Other Forum" Have had my 2013 FG Xr6T for nearly two years now and have slowly been accumulating a few modifications for it. Had the final bits of work done a few weeks ago at MonstaTorque and managed to pull a final figure of 400.7rwkw. Que comments of hub dyno and manual The route I've taken with the car and many parts can probably be looked at as unconventional and excessive. As a young bloke about to venture into his first mortgage, I decided to spend the extra whilst I can afford it and build a relatively reliable base and future proof as far as more mods go as I plan to keep the car for a very long time. Unfortunately have not had the extra cash to do my oil pump gears or timing chain gear so am very aware of my need to stay away from my limiter and even have a soft cut in place (Although I've been told with this amount of torque these cars like to push straight through this) Bit of info on the car: - 2013 FG Xr6T - Full poverty pack - 6 Speed manual -Bought dead stock with 56,000kms from a single female owner 2 years ago Since then I've done a few mods over the past 2 years, totaling to the following now at 75,000kms - IMS Twin Bush Diff Hat - Wavetrack Diff Centre w/ aftermarket half shafts - Shockworks Coilovers - Single Piece Carbon Fibre Tailshaft - Malwood Opt3+ w/ short shifter - 4" X-force Stainless Exhaust - Jonny Tig 1800HP Stealth Black Intercooler w/ turboside airbox and battery relocations - Crow Race Valve Springs - KPM 1000HP In tank dual pump fuel system - 58mm Billet wheel Machined into my existing 3576 turbo, rear housing ported and a 40mm flapper fitted - 1000cc Injectors and custom tune with Ngauge interface - Copy F6 Bumper - 19" FPV Twisties - DJR Bobtail Spoiler Much like so many have done in the past with their threads, I want to be able to share any info I have on my current list of mods in the hopes it aids with people future mod choices. Any questions feel free to ask. Its gonna be a bit hard to post some photos as I'm writing this on my lunch break but will post a few via Tapatalk below Some quick photos from my phone

Hey guys, just a question, I am installing bluetooth module that goes behind fg icc unit. Howdo I enable it? I heard aboutforscan and downloaded the extended version but howcan I enable Bluetooth module? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.

Hey guys, hope this can be of help to someone out there. 5 months ago my housemates 09 n/a xr6 5 speed started slipping gears, as most, if not all of you who have had the displeasure of owning one of these time bombs know, the day of the glittery oil pan had come and his 5 speed sh*tbox had come to an end. Myself being an apprentice at the local ford service centre saw this as an opportunity to learn what's involved with a 6 speed conversion. To begin with I already knew on the 6 speed the TCM (trans control module) was built into the box, therefore didn't need any extra plug into the ECU whereas on the 5 speed it didn't have the TCM built in, so it did need the extra plug. We bought a 2012 mk2 6 speed with the tailshaft (slightly shorter than the 5 speed), shift linkage on the side of the box, engine wiring loom, trans cooler and ecu from a wreckers, we fitted all the parts and found that that the holes to bolt the flex plate (also known as flywheel on manual) to the torque converter were 20mm inwards, after a quick ebay search we found the 4 speed and 6 speed have the same flex plate whereas the 5 speed is different, after fixing that and getting it all together the car wouldn't start, we took it to my work and attempted to program it, we had a few codes but the one that stuck out was for the IC (instrument cluster), which was for incorrect vehicle speed input, after that we were stumped, we then searched around everywhere and couldn't find any threads on a conversion being done, we rang a shop in baccus marsh (GW auto care 0455 781 227) who specialise in falcons and fords, who were the only people that genuinely wanted to help us and were very friendly, they told us we need to change the loom that goes from the bottom of the engine bay fuse panel (we changed whole fuse panel) to the back of the interior fuse panel and the loom the plugs into the top front of the engine bay fuse panel and runs around the front of the car all the way to the inside of the passenger footwell (need to take front bumper and both front inner gaurds to access (which is not easy to maneuver but is possible, goodluck), the car finally started, it drives but won't come out of 1st, when shifting to sports, the D symbol on the dash doesn't change to S and doesn't change to 1 or 2 when you shift up or down when at a stop, hope this has helped someone and if anyone can help us get her shifting it would be much appreciated, this is my first post and hopefully not my last, please be kind I'm not an expert so please correct me if I've said anything wrong and please be free to ask questions. Cheers from the half pissed Thiccc_g6e P.s long live the BARRA!

Diff on my FG turbo ute is on the way out and local mechanic recommended that if I want the diff built up to try some out of town mobs rather than the local transmission place. Want to go with a TrueTrac centre, weld the diff tubes and stronger axles might even be a good idea while I'm at it? Ive got 300rwkw, tramp rods and carry an extra half ton load every day. So who are some diff/driveline companies I could contact for a quote that would do an exchange? Send me a built rear end, I'd swap it locally and send my old one back to them. I'm in rural nsw, about 6hrs from Sydney & 5hrs from Melbourne.

Getting a new set of atomic race valve springs for my stock fg. Wondering should I get the titanium retainers? Or should I wait till my engine is built more. I’m not sure