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Showing results for tags 'Falcon'.
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I recently got an xtreme clutch kit put in My Falcon and the kit came with a new concentric slave cylinder, I am wondering whether the t5’s have a release bearing seperate to the CSC and if so then they re used the old one or whether the new CSC comes with an integrated release bearing? Can anyone clarify this please? kit was KFD26690-1A
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Evening all. I just have a quick question regarding a BA xr6 NA+T on whether I should put 6.5litres (NA) amount or 7 litres (turbo)? Every time I go to change the oil I always forget what I should put in. (Every time……..) also on a side note, when I got home today, I accidentally stalled the car 🤦♂️ because the clutch is on its way out and with the key still in the ‘on’ position but the engine off after stalling, there was a chiming sound and the oil light flashed after about 3 seconds. Anything to be concerned about? definitely has good, clean oil in it.
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Hey all, I have a 04 Ba Xr6T (with BTR gearbox). Looking at getting up to 300rwkw. Car is currently stock as a rock, but after researching for a while I have come up with a list of things im gonna need to support reaching that mark but without sacrificing the reliability to much. As this is my daily I'm not looking for cheap power but also not wanting to spend loads. If things need to bought then I will but trying to avoid to much. Here is my list, let me know your thoughts. Venom Turbo back exhaust system (4" downpipe -> dual 2.5Inch system). PWR Trans Oil Cooler Kit - With trans guage to monitor temps. Demon Pro Parts XR6 Oil Catch Can. 4″ Turbo Side Intake & Passenger Tray Battery relocation suit XR6 Turbo. Plazmaman BA/BF BAR & PLATE 650HP CROSSOVER INTERCOOLER KIT. Turbosmart 25mm kompact duel port bov. Walbro 460 460LPH Fuel Pump. 1000cc BOSCH Fuel injectors x 6. Crow Cams valve springs. Barra Billet 4340 Oil Pump Gears. Internal Wastegate Actuator. Built BTR Transmission to support. Other mods outside of engine to support the body is not listed here. Thanks.
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Hey all, im half way through the conversion I think. I’ve got the box and motor In the car taken out the old body loom, need to go pick the new one up tomorrow. But that’s all I need to get the car running right? At the moment I have: -engine/zf6 -engine/box loom (body loom picking up tomorrow) -same ecu that matches the tcm -tailshaft Some people are saying that I need to get the key reprogrammed, need to change the pedal box aswell plus floor plate. Am I able to get some expertise advice on how to crack on with this. It’s only been about 30 hrs since I’ve started and need to get it done asap… Thanks to all
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Does anyone know if these are purchasable anywhere or if anyone still makes them and/or anyone here wishing to sell theirs? would love a pair on my falcon. considering custom making them myself since I cant find them anywhere.
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Hey guys hoping someone on here can help, my car is a 2005 BAMK2 XR6 Turbo Manual. long story short I took my car to a tuner, got the car back with a very dim/faint battery light on. initially we thought the alternator was on the way out so I replaced it, made no difference. then realised the battery was going flat over night. went on a rampage changing the alternator, battery, and starter motor. none of these fixed the issue. more and more weird stuff happens with the car, for example when I turn the car off the instrument cluster flickers like a Christmas tree then turns completely off. then if I put the handbrake down whilst the cars off, the traction control light turns on very very dim. not sure if its related but a few years ago my surge tanks fuse melted, same thing happened the other week hence why I've decided to finally address this annoying issue. I also noticed on the odd rare occasion after parking the car at night I've seen the front headlights indicators on very very faintly barley noticeable as if they were getting a small current. also when I connect my battery my interior dome light flashes for a second (I installed an LED interior dome light by the way). also usually when listening to music, the right side speakers stop working leading me in having to turn the volume up really loud for them to kick back in and start working. I don't drive the car much at all hence why I've had the issue for ages, I've temporarily overcome it by disconnecting the battery every time I park it up. there is a lot of weird things going on that I may have forgotten to mention which I will add to this thread as I remember... MAINLY, cars got a drain and faint/dim battery light on and is doing weird electrical things Thankyou in advance -
So this afternoon I put My Ba Xr6 turbo 5spd into second gear and gave it a boot till around 3,500rpm and could hear a super load ticking noise coming from the engine bay, replicated the same sound, only in second and as soon as boost starts kicking in. thoughts?
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Does anyone know what the factory sway bar thickness is for a BA XR6 sedan? just looking at getting some new bushes while I’m at work and don’t know what size to get. Few websites reckon 24mm
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After heavy rain I noticed a lot of water soaked in the rear leftside passenger footwell. I pulled the rear interior out and got my partner to hose it down while I sat inside and checked for leaks, couldnt find one. I left the interior out and monitored it after a drive, water was there again, pooled on the body where the seat would sit and had ran down to the carpet yet again. Turns out the water is getting into the body and pooling up, coming out a hole in the side next to the rear door (I'll add a picture link). I had a rag in there, on taking it out a stream of water came out. Has anyone had this problem? Im guessing there is meant to be a drain hole in that compartment to let the water out, which has now blocked. What do others think? I hope this helps anyone having a similar issue and cant figure out where it is coming from.
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Hi Everyone.. Just had my turbo ute fixed today but after a short drive something is wrong.. I am fairly sure its not related to the work done today.. New front bushes and new reco tailshaft. After picking it up I was very happy that it was fixed and driving well. Within 50km I pulled up at a light and noticed what sounds like a whistle that was only audible as I came to a stop. Its almost like a kettle and it winds down to a stop as the car stops. On idle its not there.. As I take off the whistle starts but goes away or seems to after picking up. From outside the car or jst roling with windows down it's bit like a sharp edge scraping on a bit of tin and its whirring a bit with the rotation of the driveline. Inside the car when in traffic and windows up its more of a whistle and its coming from somewhere behind the ICC near the gearstick. I thought it might be a 1st gear issue but it will make the noise when rolling in N also. When I got the car back I noticed the engine also sounded weird almost like a heavy timing chain rattle at the front of the engine and a clicky clunk every 20 seconds or so from somewhere on the turbo side. Car did not drive differently or give any faults on dash. Anybody have any idea's?
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Hi there, I have a 2006 BF XR6 Falcon. All of a sudden my cluster and park lights stopped working.. My indicators, low/high beam and break lights work fine, pulled all fuses and checked them and all was good? Also I seen some other forums about this issue and seen that the combination switch are a common issue, so I checked that and didnt see any stripped/cut wires on the sharp turn of the green clip that pushes into the socket above the ignition and down the rest of the wires? Quite stumped tbh...Does anyone know what or if theres a fuse for the parking lights? Found the cluster fuse too but that was fine. Cheers & thanks Levi
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Hey guys, I am looking to purchase a FG-X XR6T and want to spend a few thousand (including labour) on increasing power. Is this achievable? Will I need to travel to Sydney/Brisbane to reliably get mods installed and a decent tune? (Located Mid-North NSW). Or just stay local? $3-4000 would probably be my limit on spending. I want the car to be reliable and be fine dealing with my lead foot on a daily basis for years. 350kw is just a ballpark figure I would probably be happy with. I dont want to go crazy, I just want to get the most bang for buck. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, the more info the better.
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I have a BF XR6 and the motor is in very bad shape. I have a greenhead gas Barra that I pulled out of a BF, if I ran that on petrol, would it be slower?? Or faster??? I know the gas Barra has higher compression but with the more heavy duty rods will my power output be less? And no I can’t turbo it because I’m on my Ps lol.
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kiaora ford folk! this week I've recycled one of the work utes into a different work ute - recovery ute for picking up large ride-on lawn mowers, working @ Stihl Shop - original delivery truck is AU cab/chassis XL trim, with oversize flat deck. cab&chassis are now extensively rusty so its been retired from use - black ute is BF2 XR6 styleside - black ute now has the flat cargo deck from the AU swapped over to it, job done 4 days ago. - both utes are fully factory trim, even wheels and tyres - I dream big, but my boss's budget is not as big, sadly. the problem I need help with, is related to rear wheel clearance/vertical travel. it needs to carry up to 650kg, but theres only about 2'' travel before it would hit the deck timber thanks to the factory lowering kit on the XR models. it also has some side-side travel when spirited cornering, the tyre sidewalls have been leaving rubber on the framework of the flatdeck. (utes done 180k km) im guessing this would be caused by the bushes being worn but idk, im just a chainsaw mechanic lol so considering a solution from these options: -load assist airbags @ $750 nzd + roadworthy certification $$$???? (the boss wont wanna spend this kinda money though lol) -wheel tubs for deck (not ideal would get in the way of work duty with the pickup+delivery of large commercial lawn mowers (Jim's mowing grade of commercial, 60'' max mowing deck size) -swap over the standard height AU ute's suspension, front and rear -combine the AU's 5 leaf setup over into the BF's 4 leaf setup, have them reset by local leaf-professionals so yeah, any advice would be greatly appreciated, trying my hardest to just work with what I got available and not have to source parts etc p.s its a family business, the boss is my dad haha. -I cant figure out how to attach photos, but they're on my instagram.com/niki6dt -
Hi everyone, I’m Johnny. Just wonder where should I get my tuned FG XR6 Turbo ( ~ 300 rwkws) serviced? At a local Ford dealer or at a well-known tuning shop? I purchased the car a few months ago from a local private owner (its first owner) with 95000 kms on the odo. All modifications and tuning had been done by the previous owner when he first bought the car. He had it done at a wellknown independent local Ford tuning workshop and he kept servicing the car at this workshop every 5000 kms for more than 7 years. Ok now because I live a bit far away from that workshop, should I service my car at the local Ford dealer (very close to my house) or I have to bring the car back to where it was tuned? I dont mind about the cost of service. I like the way how the car is running right now, smooth, quiet and very fast and I want to keep it that way at all time. Any advice? Cheers.
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Hi there needing some knowledge and advice, I've got a 2003 ford ba xr6 turbo auto. I've owned it for around 2 and a half years now and it's always had problems, biggest one is when you put your foot down and hold boost for more than 3 or for seconds it starts to shudder really bad and go into like a limp or safety mode and wants to conk out, only way to stop it doing it is to feather the accelerator numerous times then goes back to normal. No engine lights come up or anything of that sort. I had the spark plugs and Coils changed when I first got it, changed the wastegate, that fixed it for a coupe days then went back to sh*t, changed the wastegate solenoid came good for a few days then went to sh*t again, it started popping and backfiring and over boosting so I changed both map sensors helped it a fair amount but still pops and misses under heavy load and goes into that safety mode again when I hold boost. Really need help and advice on what It could be. Maybe the computer needs a tune or something? Maybe the wastegate flapper isn't opening fully.? It's all stock standard besides a rear muffler delete.. If anyone can help it'd be much appreciated
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2013 fg falcon xr6 ICC unit display not working
Matthewjuhas posted a topic in Audio/Visual Workshop
So I disconnected my battery to change my light bolbs in my 2013 xr6 fg. When I connected it all back up and got into my car I noticed my display wasnt working. So I tired holding the power button waiting for a beep but no beep... actually I couldnt turn the radio off at all. All of my media functions dont work (bluetooth, AUX, phone), the only thing that works is the radio. Iv'e tried everything I can think of. -
I'm looking at getting a xr6 turbo, preferably 06 and upwards but still the ba/bf body, I want to get 500-550hp to the wheels but I dont know about a couple things and hope some of you know and can help me, 1. I've heard the bf 06 and onwards blocks are the typhoon blocks and are the stronger ones and are better to use? 2. Is the bf or fg engine better? Is the head different on the fg or what are the differences between the bf and fg block and head. 3. Can you put a t5 manual trans on a fg turbo engine? Then put that in the ba/bf body. 4. Any recommendations for the following parts? - forged pistons and rods to handle 800hp+ Valves and valve springs -what bottom end stuff like bearings ect would suit this kind of power? - could a fg head go onto the bf "typhoon block? Much appreciate any advice or comments that can answer these questions!!
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I have a 2008 fg xr6 turbo at the dyno tuners however have come across an issue they or other dyno tuners havent seen before. The car is going to 17psi on the dyno However any more psi over 17 and the car loses communication and dies on the dyno and launches forward we are trying to achieve 20+ psi, has anybody else come across this issue? Any help would be appreciated. Thankyou
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I have a 2008 fg xr6 turbo at the dyno tuners however have come across an issue they or other dyno tuners havent seen before. The car is going to 17psi on the dyno However any more psi over 17 and the car loses communication and dies on the dyno and launches forward we are trying to achieve 20+ psi, has anybody else come across this issue? Any help would be appreciated. Thankyou
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Looking all over but cant find any aftermarket boot garnishes without the ford logo.. can anyone please point me in the right direction or make any suggestions. Anything will be much appreciated cheers https://www.google.com.au/search?q=fg+falcon+boot+garnish&client=ms-android-telstra-au&prmd=isvn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjureKWi-ncAhWJurwKHVNUD7AQ_AUIESgB&biw=360&bih=612#imgrc=HI6WJxM1tCostM: So this but w/o the ford logo Will the BA/BF garnish fit??
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Hi there needing some knowledge and advice, I've got a 2003 ford ba xr6 turbo auto. I've owned it for around 2 and a half years now and it's always had problems, biggest one is when you put your foot down and hold boost for more than 3 or for seconds it starts to shudder really bad and go into like a limp or safety mode and wants to conk out, only way to stop it doing it is to feather the accelerator numerous times then goes back to normal. No engine lights come up or anything of that sort. I had the spark plugs and Coils changed when I first got it, changed the wastegate, that fixed it for a coupe days then went back to sh*t, changed the wastegate solenoid came good for a few days then went to sh*t again, it started popping and backfiring and over boosting so I changed both map sensors helped it a fair amount but still pops and misses under heavy load and goes into that safety mode again when I hold boost. Really need help and advice on what It could be. Maybe the computer needs a tune or something? Maybe the wastegate flapper isn't opening fully.? It's all stock standard besides a rear muffler delete.. If anyone can help it'd be much appreciated
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Hi, I am looking to purchase an 03 N/A BA xr6, -5 speed manual -Black -Pacemaker extractors -Pod Filter -Slotted Rotors -FPV Rims and steering wheel -Herrod front grill -Twin tip exhaust -Is set up to run nos -Flash tuner with 3 tunes, one labelled as C&V Tune - GJA-240 I'm looking to see if anyone has any knowledge on the background of this car or what work has been done. Its too quick to have stock internals but I'm not sure. Thanks!
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Hi everyone! I'm wondering if anyone can give me some help with my car. I have recently developed a problem with my transmission.. so when I turn on to a highway and I'm driving to get to the speed limit of 110 my car won't change gears passed 80km it just revs out like its stuck in 1st or 2nd gear I then have to use sequential mode to change my gear manually and then it's right.. this happens everyday but when I'm on a road that has a lot of corners and the speed limit is 100km the car shifts perfectly without any of the problems.. the trans fluid is fine I've had it checked, I've replaced my battery and throttle position sensor.. I've got got codes of u2196 & u2197. Please help!! ?
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Hi Guys, Been a while since I've posted but loving the car so far, retune will happen mid-year hopefully but until then I'm trying to get it up to scratch in every other way. My front end is apart as I realised one of the factory hot pipes (rubber) has perished due to oil (see:little splits/cracks hardening etc.) so a guy locally had a full factory second hand set up on gumtree so I bought the lot. Sadly he recently lost his car due to mistaken identity (jerks). Gave me a lot of good info as his BF Turbo was in pristine condition. Now I have the entire front end of the car apart/exposed, are there any items people would recommend changing/checking whilst I'm here? I've heard the Boost control solenoid usually could use a clean or check and I'm generally going to check all the hoses and bolts that I can. Key fact here is that I am still able to get very cheap parts and things that would normally be very expensive I may have the ability to still get at a good price(aftermarket). Loved that Ford still sell the duct (oversized rubber rad hose) for new @ $320 I can post pics of how apart I've got it if anyone would like me to. cheers. Nathan
