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One of the few negative things l have read about the XR6T is the potential insurance cost. l was pleasently suprised when l went into our local RACV branch last week to get a quote on our XR6T, l was quoted only $481 (our current car, a TS50 is also with the RACV at $850) Should mention we live in country vic, l am 32, my wife 27 and we are both rating 1. Makes me wonder what all the fuss is about, l guess the WRX can be ridiculous to insure, so the XR6T was assumed to be in the same basket. So how has everyone else got on with insurance? Have you been able to better my RACV quote?

I think the stock blow off valves are fitted back to front because they are fitted with the piston side on the turbo intake side and not on the just before the throttle body side. What do you guys think about it?

Hey, I have a BA mk2 turbo and I noticed about a month ago the turbo was fluttering when I drove it hard. The car HAD just the factory diverter valve installed. So I assumed this was on the way out (being a 2004 car) and I bought an atmospheric BOV for the sound and to hopefully stop the fluttering. The BOV is nothing special, just a $40 one off eBay that said it was compatible with my car. I put it on yesterday and no matter how I adjust the spring, under high boost, the turbo will flutter. This is the part that confuses me when I sit at 1700 revs I can hear the BOV is open no matter how stiff or soft the spring is but then I also assume it isn't opening enough when I come off the throttle, pushing air back into the turbo and making it flutter. The flutter only occurs when I floor it. Otherwise the bov will vent correctly. So I was wondering; is the issue something like the bov not being wide enough? did I jump the gun on assuming the turbo flutter was an issue? (I've heard some cars just do it) should I try a different spring and lubricate the piston of the bov? Or just bite the bullet and get a decent one? Any help would be appreciated, cheers

Hey Guys, I've recently come across a problem with having no boost. Gauge says I have good VAC but when I put my foot down it hits 0 on the gauge and stays there. When this is happening all that can be heard is an air rushing noise. I was wondering if anyone else has had similar problems? and where the best place to start would be? Cheers

Hi there Forum I am wanting to upgrade my plumbing from the turbo through to the throttle body keeping the original intercooler. First question is are the factory fitted intercooler good for the job as I am not chasing more power, I just want to install a pressured side of the inlet that is good quality, of metal construction, that has good seals between the different parts and has good quality flexible joiners that will not leak. My aim is to reduce inlet noise and to know that I will not be chasing leaks in the pressured side of the system. The car is a 2010 build and I am suspicious of the plastic bits, the age of them and how well they fit together. Does any one know of an after market kit that will do the job ? Any feedback appreciated. Cheers Lewis

Hey peeps! how can I make my Fg turbo flutter, is it as simple as installing an aftermarket bov or is there more to it?

Iv recently installed a Deceptor Pro Bov on my FG Turbo ute. The Deceptor Pro is a bigger unit than most blow off valves due to the electronic mechanism, so its not a simple swap as it gets squashed between the motor and bonnet. I've done my install with a Turbo side intake so there's more room to work with than the stock air system. However someone else has done this install with a stock air system already back in 2009 so search the Blow off valve workshop for "Deceptor Pro" & you'll find that one. There are over 100 listings for different Deceptor Pro models. Some of them have special flanges for special vehicle and others have different inlet & outlet sizes. I got one with a 25mm inlet & 25mm outlet. for $436 off ebay. I then got an Aeroflow 90degree 32mm to 25mm reducer elbow also from eBay for $18. The factory piping has a reducer coming straight off the intercooler piping. This is where the elbow reducer goes, I cut the 32mm end down to half its length to fit. The factory spring clamps are easiest dealt with using a pair of locking pliers and are reused. The dip stick need to be slightly bent back to clear the trumpet. Then cut the airbox return pipe a bit shorter to suit. I also shortened the crank case air line to make the pipes all neat. The air enters at the bottom of the valve and the 2 on the sides are the outlets. It doesnt matter which outlet is used to vent or recirculate so I swapped them around to angle the trumpet downwards. I also undone the 4 allen bolts and rotated the manifolt nipple 180derees. The intake manifold hose is a perfect size and fits snugly on the nipple. I then found my mounting spot for the dial along with all my other gizmos. Wired the red & black wires to the back of the cigarette lighter. It draws minimal power and the lighter socket is ignition switched. Hardest part was getting the wiring into the engine bay. Loom wasn't long enough to go via behind the drivers side wheel so I poked a hole in a grommet using a coat hanger right next to the clutch hoses and then stretched it open wider with long nose pliers. (easy if you've got a auto.) I ran the wiring along the back of the engine bay along a hose squeezing it in the factory clips. Excess wiring was tied up & tucked under the center console. The loom is sleeved but the 20ish cm on the valve is not. I happened to have sleeving from my computer modding days so I neatened up that bit of wiring. I also purchased a blanking plug and another 25mm outlet. The blanking plug is so instead of adjustable vent, I can do adjustable dose. And the extra outlet is if I want to hide the venting trumpet deeper in the engine bay with some extra piping as cop camouflage. I could also plumb it as a dose/vent adjustment with no option for recirculation. Trumpet: Dose Plug: Read the instructions on adjusting the valve spring tension. Just go for a lap around the block listening to it, adjust it, rinse & repeat till your happy. Installed it just in time for the local charity cruise. My mate did a poor job filming but the kids reaction was the best!

I have an hks ssqv v4 bov and have connected it and for some reason it's not working. It's a dual stage pull type relief valve. Can anyone help me? Can it be done?

Hey guys, I want to buy a custom BOV but Im curious to which brand/series is best for a bf mk2 xr6t to make the air dump/sneeze noise opposed to the flutter or shutter noise? CHEERS HOMIES

Okay so I'm having a bit of difficulty with getting a dose or anything resembling the turkey orgy. I have blocked and removed the blow of valve. Slapped in a 3inch pipe that I sourced from the local exhaust joint for $25 and then I cut it down to size and threw a small POD filter on top. But with all this done I'm still just getting a PSHHH... No flutter at all. :'-( I'm starting to think my car might not be fully sick enough... If any of you lads can see what I'm doing wrong (other than wanting a dose pipe in the beginning) please let me know. I was also wondering if I may just need more boost to get the flutter???

Hi all failry new to owning an fg xr6T and just have a question that I cant seem to find imformation for. I just purchased and installed the Turbosmart Kompact Dual port, and currently have no washers in it with almost fully tightened up, Pretty sure that there isnt any leaks when idiling but just wanted to make sure its right so im wondering if anyone else has the same BOV running stock boost and if you used the washers or not?

I have no idea how to do this..the car <rx6t fg> is my frist turbo and I would love to get the woosh and whistle sound... if anyone is out west wanna help set this up ill buy ya a box of beer ? haha.... something like this do these things make your car go slower ??

Hi everyone, Sorry if I'm doubling up here, delete this post if necessary but just want to know peoples oppinions on tuning for my fg xr6 turbo. It's currently got a CAI and I've replaced the turbo intake muffler with 3" pipe and replaced the bosch bov for a turbosmart dual port BOV. Will it be more beneficial for me to get a proper dyno tune done or get a flash tune controller or what are good options? Its purely a road vehicle and I'm not really after shaving milliseconds off my quarter mile time but do like a bit of a punch when I drop the right foot. Also, and this is probably another topic but when its cold the revs surge around 200 - 400 rpm when you raise the revs a little bit. Idling it is steady but you can notice when you start driving aswell, the car surges a bit till it warms up. I read on here somewhere that a tune can fix this? It's been to ford for this problem but they took my money and gave the car back exactly the same :( Any input would be appreciated!

gday only new to turbos and I was wondering if I can block the standard bov off to get that sound ?? if so could someone please tell me the easiest way yo do this ,some pics would be good to if anybody has any..ba xr6 turbo thanks