xr_velocity

I have an AVO BOV on the way. It is plumb back and vented, almost identical to the APS one but has a larger diameter inlet. The plumb back outlet is still 25mm so I can still use the same mount on the turbo inlet side but need to get another bigger mount fitted to the throttle body side. Will see how it goes.

So does your turbo flutter reduce at all when you vent to atmosphere? Or is it drowned out by the shhh noise?

Is 38mm big enough though? Has anybody done this and what is their experience?

The lesson here is to never take your car anywhere you know you will be drinking.

I am using the standard BOV. I didnt see the point in buying the same sized after market one because it would not flow much more from what I read on this forum anyway..... So you are saying with your after market BOV, you can turn it all the way soft so it flows more quickly....but you still receive a lot of flutter?

I don't think saying go back to NA will achieve much. Would you want the worlds hottest chick who farts in bed constantly? It's all about how much your BOV flows I guess. I don't think the shape of the filter will change much. It is still the same intake. You need to expel x amount of air through a valve (BOV) that flows y amount of air. x = y in a perfect world equals no back flow through the turbo causing that fluttering noise..... That is the theory anyway. So who can work out what value x is for 15psi and what value y is for a 20mm BOV hole (25mm is external diameter). I can't work out exactly what it is...so I plan to just use two stock BOVs on two separate outlets on the intake. Hopefully doubling the flow, greatly reduces the back flow of air through the turbo.

It seems there is a blow off valve forum in here...I didn't realise...I'll read through there, I'm sure to find something.

Anyone else had any luck removing this noise? Does an after market blow off valve make any difference?

So the air is obviously being forced back out the turbo because the stock blow off valve can't release enough air...but then this would be the same volume of air if you are running the same boost with a normal airbox over the engine intake. The only difference being the far longer exit path to come back out into atmosphere through your air filter. I don't want to increase the length of my intake, so the next step would be to fit a bigger blow off valve...or a second blow off valve? My setup uses the plumb back into the under battery intake already. The loudness of the noise is quite annoying and attracts too much unwanted attention.

Metallica - Fade to Black.

Hi everyone, I have recently had a Rapid V3 kit fitted and am not a big fan of the blow off valve noise now. I know it would be the same on other similar setups, so I am not singling out Rapid's kit. The kit itself has made a huge improvement to the responsiveness and drivability of the car. But for me, I am not really liking the wog noise coming out of my engine bay after throttle lift off. I was going to see if I could quieten it down a little, but had a question before starting....The noise that I now have when the throttle shuts and the blowoff valve opens, is it only coming from the blow off valve and back into the intake pipe for the turbo, or would it also be coming back through the turbo in the opposite direction to intake flow like a dose pipe would do? I was thinking of having the plumb back blow off valve go through a sort of muffler before heading back to the intake. But this would be useless if it is coming back through the turbo itself.

Everyone has their personal choice on tuners. Some are good, some are not so good. Look at the workshops history and what they have achieved. I go with CV Performance in Taren Point. You'll find them in numerous magazines for the builds they have done, and the records they have made. There are others out there too, but I find these guys exceptional. But then that is only my opinion

I myself have done very stupid things in a car from the age of 18 to 20. One night I potentially could have killed myself and 4 others, all that needed to be there was a power pole or a tree, the only thing that changed was that I no longer did silly things with others in the car. I still did silly things with only myself in the car. The event that stopped me from doing silly things was losing all the points on my license and choosing to drive for 12 months without losing any points. The consequences of losing a point meant that I would lose my license for double the time. So for one year, I drove like Mary Poppins flying around under her umbrella. That one year was long enough to enforce habits in myself, that rather than looking for speed cameras, I looked to obey the law because of the consequence I would suffer if I did not. I do not always obey the law now, I do speed at times, but by a marginal amount, never in residential areas, never in the wet. These days, I would never do the things that I used to do on a public road, I just cannot see the sense in it. I don't see the point in it. I would rather hit a track and spend hours with my foot down than 20 seconds of madness down a public road. Not all young drivers are irresponsible, but almost ALL young drivers (and older drivers for that matter) have not developed the skills to avoid an incident or recover after an incident has happened. For this reason there should be driver training as part of a license. Also zero tolerance for all L and P platers. That is, you have zero points until you are full licensed. One demerit means your license is gone for 6 months. You will lose your job because of that, oh well, you should have thought of that before running that red light like so many stupid people do here in Sydney. I think there should also be some more emphasis put on parents rather than government, they need to become more educated on the dangers their young children are encountering when they get into a car. You cannot expect the government to do everything for you. Government can and should impose far tougher power to weight restrictions on P platers. With enough runway, a Daihatsu Charade will hit 140, but you do not always have that run way, people need to learn how to handle an under powered car before learning to steer with the throttle. Parents can easily control the type of car they are allowed to buy, they can educate them by driving responsibly. I used to think it was cool when my step dad drove fast or did a burnout, but when I look back now I know that influenced my pathetic attitude behind the wheel. There are so many drivers out there I see in Sydney that have no patience, that run red lights all with their kids in the car. What has the child learnt from this? You should be teaching your kid how to control a car, but not on public roads, if you do have a bit of fun out there, it should never be with your kids in the car to impress them. They might end up in a tree one day because they were mimicking you. It is very hard to control the impulses of an 18 year old boy, but parents need to be a lot more proactive in the car, the driving skills and the attitude they give their kids.

It's on again, I have already entered. Get in fast to avoid paying a larger entrance fee. $150 for 3 days driving is excellent value. www.powercruise.net for info and an entry form.

Funniest one I have seen is a 200SX in Bankstown (Leb central), with the number plates OMYGOD.... I couldn't help but laugh.

The ETS is a cost of living increase, people's wages increase accordingly to compensate for this. Therefore rthe cost to produce goods and services increases. It's called inflation which leads to 17% interest rates just like in the Labour governed 80s. Goods and services will be produced overseas where there are no issues with sh*tting on street corners. The world will not participate in trading carbon, even if they did the cost of carbon will be made to sky rocket so that the stock markets will make a fortune off it and inevitably invest nothing back into the green world. It is yet another way to make money, that is all. If you want to get serious about cleaning up the world, you can start in your own backyard quite easily. Switch your power to wind energy through your electricity provider, turn your TV off at the switch, it's not hard to do. So many little things that could reduce your wastage by say 10%. That is a big number when you think about 24 million people doing it. Industry should be encouraged to become greener by way of rewards for becoming green in ways of tax concessions or whatever. Your green energy bill cost difference over normal coal power could be tax deductible. So many things could be done, but politicians at the end of the day just want more money through way of taxes. F^%$ YOU KRUDD

I am sure the question was aimed at equal power, torque, tune everything. He's probably not looking to turn this into a climate change debate, just to answer the question of auto or manual, which is faster in gear from roll on. Having said that, it's hard to answer unless someone has done it. You could probably look at drag time slips to see who put on the most speed after the 60' mark or something like that?

I'm with QBE. They don't charge me extra for any mods.

No idea how much it is. I guess you would have to call HDi.

Just received an email from HDi, I must be on their mailing list somehow. HDi Product Release Looks like a decent replacement kit.

Have you got anymore pictures of yours?

Scrap that idea then! Worth a shot.

Being it is a bigger swirl pot and different fuel pump with the factory ribbed hoses, it must be OE? Certainly not a modified BA one. I ask because instead of paying $500 for what looks like a factory part, I'd rather pay $300 for the same part if it is in fact OE.

I was wondering if anyone knew what sort of fuel pump this is? Herrod sell it as a replacement pump for the BA XR6s and 8s. I think C&V do the same or similar one as well. It looks completely factory to me....but which factory and which car...it is claimed to flow 200 lpm compared to stock Falcon of 120 lpm. Any ideas if this is OEM? What car it originally comes out of? Who manufactures the Ford fuel pump assemblies? Since it looks identical you would say the same manufacturer....but then I might be completely wrong and barking up the wrong tree.

Thanks to all for their help on this, but Atomic gave me the answer I wanted. THey mentioned Tony Rigoli Racing in Villawood will do it for $350 (labour). Excellent price! This is of course as long as I use the Atomic springs, which doesn't bother me at all since they are very good quality and proven in many cars.